Shawn R. L.
New member
In some situations like yours ( I havent seen your mini) I simply cheat. Put the light in anyway as long as there is enough of a light source SOMEWHERE to justify there being some light. Use artistic liscense. Post a WIP.
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In some situations like yours ( I havent seen your mini) I simply cheat. Put the light in anyway as long as there is enough of a light source SOMEWHERE to justify there being some light. Use artistic liscense. Post a WIP.
Dark Seraphim
New member
Exactly what I did
But I also created a new light source, I will release the mini once I\'m done with it, but I think the OSL works perfectly Cheers
Shawn R. L.
New member
Originally posted by Dark Seraphim
Exactly what I did
Cheers
Lock-n-load buddie. Post some WIP\'s
Shawn R. L.
New member
@vincegammer - OK, here we go.
What I did here is to show a before and after (done very roughly). Left is before and the right is after. The colorscale somewhat corroberates with the Rembrandt liink. As you get further from the light source, it shift\'s toward orange/brown and gets darker. I have reversed mysel and included a secoundary lightsource. It is indicated by the green lines and the letter \'S\'. The small square containg about the tone of grey to use for the secoundary lightsource.
Sorry to get the numbers jumbled up but the pink lines show the progression from light to twilight to secoundary light source.
1 - light
2 - getting towards shadow
3 - twilight, black
4 - secoundary lightsource.
The top pic where the pink lines are, the progression goes from left to right. Some of this may be obvious but I just want to make sure things are clear.
The blue lines - s2 - are where the shadows are lightned. For the most part, shadows are lighter the closer you get to the lightsource.As you get closer to the lightsource and the shadows get lighter it is crucial to be very crisp with the edges of the shadows (unless the area is round/dome shaped and the shadow would have no real edge)
The candle is translucent and will be rather light. The bottom of the candle itself should be a touch darker than I have indicated.
The main thing I did here is to lighten and saturate the \'lit\' areas. Put the secoundary lightsource color in the shaded areas and to darken the twilight areas...........Upped the contrast both in light and dark and color.
Give that a go and repost.
{edit} There are some areas, the cheeks, the lower lip, the moustache, the bottom of the beard, top of the buckle, the top of the shin guard, the knees, the two spots to the right and left of the beard where I basically cheated. As long as it\'s not too far out of the line of sight of the lightsource I will sometimes highlight small areas like these to simply \'kick up the depth\'. This is definately optional and a thing of personal taste.
What I did here is to show a before and after (done very roughly). Left is before and the right is after. The colorscale somewhat corroberates with the Rembrandt liink. As you get further from the light source, it shift\'s toward orange/brown and gets darker. I have reversed mysel and included a secoundary lightsource. It is indicated by the green lines and the letter \'S\'. The small square containg about the tone of grey to use for the secoundary lightsource.
Sorry to get the numbers jumbled up but the pink lines show the progression from light to twilight to secoundary light source.
1 - light
2 - getting towards shadow
3 - twilight, black
4 - secoundary lightsource.
The top pic where the pink lines are, the progression goes from left to right. Some of this may be obvious but I just want to make sure things are clear.
The blue lines - s2 - are where the shadows are lightned. For the most part, shadows are lighter the closer you get to the lightsource.As you get closer to the lightsource and the shadows get lighter it is crucial to be very crisp with the edges of the shadows (unless the area is round/dome shaped and the shadow would have no real edge)
The candle is translucent and will be rather light. The bottom of the candle itself should be a touch darker than I have indicated.
The main thing I did here is to lighten and saturate the \'lit\' areas. Put the secoundary lightsource color in the shaded areas and to darken the twilight areas...........Upped the contrast both in light and dark and color.
Give that a go and repost.
{edit} There are some areas, the cheeks, the lower lip, the moustache, the bottom of the beard, top of the buckle, the top of the shin guard, the knees, the two spots to the right and left of the beard where I basically cheated. As long as it\'s not too far out of the line of sight of the lightsource I will sometimes highlight small areas like these to simply \'kick up the depth\'. This is definately optional and a thing of personal taste.
vincegamer
New member
I gather I\'m supposed to paint these colors over him?
Shawn R. L.
New member
Yes. Instead of doing it with words, I thought this would be easier for both of us and clearer.
vincegamer
New member
I started painting it, then thought about it some more and before I got too far along making him yellow/orange, I thought I\'d better check.
So, does the color of his clothing actually matter? Say he\'s wearing a blue vest. Would I disregard that and paint the highlights yellow/orange?
So, does the color of his clothing actually matter? Say he\'s wearing a blue vest. Would I disregard that and paint the highlights yellow/orange?
Shawn R. L.
New member
At this point yes, paint it with the warm colors. Later you can put a wash over the different colored areas and get the combination of the \'warm/lit\' effect and the color. This is a real trickey area, and can require alot of back and forth. SOMETIMES a wash will work just fine but sometimes it requires mixing and remixing, painting and repainting to get the exact effect.
If you are doing a blue area that is halfway from the lightsource to the ground, you have alot of ingridents to consider - light and dark, where is this area on the warm/lit scale, it not only shift\'s towards orange but is also getting duller at the same time, if the area is large the color/tone/saturation will change within the same area, THEN you have what is happening with the colors in the secoundary light source area. It all can be done if you have the patients and interest. It\'s your pick, whichever way you want to go.
It might be good at this stage to simply light the piece and forget the colors of the clothing at this time. First get the basic OSL \'trick\' down, then go up one more step to modulating the colors. If you look at FIRE!!! and Kill Shot I have done them both in mostly greys as far as the surrounding areas. The main color is in the flame. Wheras in Neo Soviet Guy with Glowing Thing I did more color shifting.
Shawn R. L.
New member
Hi Michael. How\'s things in Napa? Hot over here. First it wont stop raining then heat. Never satisfied!
I hear ya about real life getting in the way. I have been up to my eyeballs in it lately. Today I got to go to my \'happy place\' and paint and listen to tunes, with a good cup of tea.........aaaaahhhh. Look forward to seeing your stuff when you get back to it.
Shawn
vincegamer
New member
It\'s been a while since I updated here. Progress is slow. Sorry for the large pics too.
I still need to work on the secondary highlights. The color I painted them in was way too bright so I went over them in black. I tried to glaze but they all but disappeared anyway.
First is the photo I promised of my photography set-up. You can just see the mini and the mount of the tripod where the camera usually sits.
Here is the mini in its current state.
Per request I turned off the topmost bulb so he\'s only lit from the sides.
He\'s a tad under-exposed, but increasing the exposure the one step my camera has made it too bright in my opinion (though I can email you the too-bright pic if you want to see it as well).
And I primed and painted black (1 coat - still wet in the pic) the base I am using. I think painting his shadow will help the feel quite a bit.
This would have gone a lot faster if I owned a can of black spray paint. Some day I\'ve got to get to a store but until then I work with what I have on hand.
Yes, I see that I accidentally left a fingerprint. I\'ll clean that up.
I still need to work on the secondary highlights. The color I painted them in was way too bright so I went over them in black. I tried to glaze but they all but disappeared anyway.
First is the photo I promised of my photography set-up. You can just see the mini and the mount of the tripod where the camera usually sits.
Here is the mini in its current state.
Per request I turned off the topmost bulb so he\'s only lit from the sides.
He\'s a tad under-exposed, but increasing the exposure the one step my camera has made it too bright in my opinion (though I can email you the too-bright pic if you want to see it as well).
And I primed and painted black (1 coat - still wet in the pic) the base I am using. I think painting his shadow will help the feel quite a bit.
This would have gone a lot faster if I owned a can of black spray paint. Some day I\'ve got to get to a store but until then I work with what I have on hand.
Shawn R. L.
New member
@vincegammer - Comming along just fine. Could you take the photo\'s you posted of the fig and in photoshop put in a black background? Lookin good.
vincegamer
New member
No.
I don\'t have photoshop.
Even if I did I wouldn\'t know how.
I don\'t think the software I do have (Irfanview, Microsoft Picture It) have that option.
I don\'t have photoshop.
Even if I did I wouldn\'t know how.
I don\'t think the software I do have (Irfanview, Microsoft Picture It) have that option.
Shawn R. L.
New member
No problem. Use the same light setup and put a piece of black paper behind the mini. Black velvet would be better if you have it.
angus147258
New member
These all look excelent! Maybe I\'ll join in on all of the OSL fun in a bit...
Shawn R. L.
New member
@angus147258 - Climb on board.
angus147258
New member
maybe that werner klocke elf chick would be good to start. Do you know any way I could have osl on the SM termi chaplain?
vincegamer
New member
Shawn has done a nice old termi with OSL glowing eyes.
Shawn, I took the pics in front of black velvet, but forgot to bring the disk to work so I\'ll have to post later, maybe Saturday if I get out of bed early.
Shawn, I took the pics in front of black velvet, but forgot to bring the disk to work so I\'ll have to post later, maybe Saturday if I get out of bed early.
Shawn R. L.
New member
@Angus - would have to see the mini first.
Doooohhh!!
Doooohhh!!
vincegamer
New member
I\'m not going to be able to post a pic this weekend and I would like to get some painting done tomorrow. Basically, can you tell me if I should be attempting to add color, or should I leave it in the orange/yellow ranges. I think the photos look pretty good.
Ought I to smooth the transitions any?
I\'ll start on the base at least. I will do it all black, then drybrush a light gray. Then position the mini and paint in the shadow in black. I\'ll do what I think it should look like and try to get it posted Monday as well.
Ought I to smooth the transitions any?
I\'ll start on the base at least. I will do it all black, then drybrush a light gray. Then position the mini and paint in the shadow in black. I\'ll do what I think it should look like and try to get it posted Monday as well.
