Stompa Gargant W.I.P.

DrEvilmonki

New member
Originally posted by RedSevenBlue
Originally posted by DrEvilmonki
I favour the removable base option. You could disguise the join somewhat by having some lager bits of rubble attached to the 6\" inner base but overlapping the edge just slightly. Also if it\'s a custom base make the sides flat instead of sloped so that the gap around the top isn\'t so large.

No wonder your a doctor!!! lol

Shh! I\'m not really a doctor, I just wear a white jacket and offer to give people special examinations.
 

Pestie

New member
Truly truly amazing.

you sir have too much times on your hands!! but up Da Waaaaaaargh! :)

Mental note - make sure i stay away from any open competition this year...
 

vincegamer

New member
I thought the squashed grot was going to be stuck to the bottom of his raised foot.

Where are you putting the battery?

How about white eyes?
 

penguin

New member
I think the flickering would be too complicated and spoil it a bit. That is movement, happening in real time, while the rest of the stompa is still, including the grots. Awesome though, I predict a demon!
 

jamsessionein

New member
While I consult the more electrically-minded people that are helping me do the LEDs, I figured I\'d move along to the other arm and get it done as I haven\'t made much progress with this recently. I hate continually trying to redesign this thing, as it\'s had me in a rut for a while, but I think I finally broke out of it and came up with a decent plan. It deviates slightly from the original concept art, but I think it\'s suitable.

gunarm1.jpg


gunarmgif.gif


You\'ll notice a few things:

The circular saw was replaced with the equivalent of an enlarged ork chainsword. I like this option better - just as rippy, in my opinion, but less awkward-looking. Also, I think I\'ll be ditching the grot idea for the arm - just no room, really, as I\'d prefer to have hydraulics there to \'support\' the weight of the heavier gun arm, as it were. You\'ll notice this also has more hydraulics than the other arm - this was to suggest that the weight of the weapon arm is a lot heavier than the wrecka claw, and that it needed additional support.

I\'ll be chaining the two weapon barrels together at the end, as well.

Overall, I think I\'ll have a good deal of success with this design, and I\'m getting started on it at the moment. I may revise the chamber/ammo feed a little bit for the top Kannon, but the rest of it is good enough to start building. Off I go!
 

Bobinator

New member
I like this idea, the new weapon seems more stream-lined, if thats the right word for an orky build, anyway this is all going to add up to one almighty head popping orgasm of a model, cant wait to see the end result, well done there you.
 

RedSevenBlue

New member
Originally posted by DrEvilmonki
Originally posted by RedSevenBlue
Originally posted by DrEvilmonki
I favour the removable base option. You could disguise the join somewhat by having some lager bits of rubble attached to the 6\" inner base but overlapping the edge just slightly. Also if it\'s a custom base make the sides flat instead of sloped so that the gap around the top isn\'t so large.

No wonder your a doctor!!! lol

Shh! I\'m not really a doctor, I just wear a white jacket and offer to give people special examinations.

I think the FBI may be onto you. lol
 

Tinweasel

New member
So far as the current red-drawn design for the gun arm, I\'m thinking that a simple Orky solution for stability would be to make it similar to what\'s in the original sketch - use a strip of balsa wood or something similar as the backing for the barrels (the side facing towards the viewer in the sketch) and then have the barrels fastened on (like in the sketch) with riveted/welded metal banding holding the barrels in place from the front to the solid support of the solid wood/metal inner arm beam.

Diameter-wise, it looks like you could probably use something like the tube of a Bic ballpoint pen for the upper kannon tube and drill pin vise holes for sloppy venting. I\'d say the lower gun (if I were an Ork) ought to be a machine gun/shoota for volume of fire - best of both worlds! Massive damage and an accompanying big *boom* as well as rows of Marines mowed down by chained fire, all by one arm! To that end, I\'d say the stuff you can\'t see from the concept sketch that\'s hidden behind the body ought to be a drop-in clip type feed for the kannon ammo (I really love the large-scale shells you\'ve done thus far and you may as well have a banana clip or something showing off 4 or 5 feeding in from the top!) As for the lower rapid-fire shoota, maybe a couple round drums in sequence a la a big ol\' Tommy gun with two ammo feeds, one high and one low next to each other, with a slotted hole spitting out spent rounds. So far as the choppa goes, I\'d say model it on one of the old Epic scale Gargants - a thick wedge-style toothed chainsaw/rippa with rilly big shark-like teeth. I think the one in your most recent red design sketch is kinda \"skimpy,\" IMO, and the blade really ought to start lower and stick out farther so that when it \"drops the hammer\" on some hapless Dreadnought, neither the front end of the gun barrels or the underside of the arm with the magazines, cables, and other important bitz get caught on what the arm has been dropped onto. I\'m also thinking about what you said of the weight of the arm, and IMO really all you need are pulleys or chains/belts on only the upper surface of the arm because the easiest method of lowering it (the Orky way!) would be to let the weight of the big-ass arm drop itself with effort only put into pulling it back upwards again. My thinking from the sketches and your work so far is that the gun/rippa arm does 3 things: it holds level to fire, the shoulder swivels the whole guns \'n\' rippa works side-to-side, and the whole thing can get cranked up above shoulder level so that its own weight allows it to be dropped so\'s it can bludgeon and chew into whatever happens to be underneath.

I\'m really loving the work thus far, and it ought to look excellent with rusty bolted pieces all over the body mixed with squares of different colors from all the scavenged Rhinos and such that the Orks took scrap from to make it. I\'d say paint the head primarily red, because that\'s the part that makes the whole thing go fasta! (Red interior lighting a la a submarine is how I view the interior of the \"mouth\" cabin, and are you sure you wouldn\'t consider yellow lighting for the eyes? I don\'t think green eyes are nearly demonic enough for a toothy grinning Orky skull face dripping with red paint.)

No critiques here; just suggestions... the whole thing thus far is just great, and I can\'t wait to see more progress!
 

jamsessionein

New member
Tin:

I think I\'ll be keeping the chains as opposed to wooden planking or metal banding holding the barrels in place as my army (and the gargant\'s mechanical system, to some degree) utilizes them extensively. I am in fact using an old marker as the barrel for the top and some plastic stock tubing for the bottom one - and I like the idea of a gravity-fed banana clip, as I am trying with some difficulty to figure out what I\'m going to do with the shells I\'ve made anyway.

The extra arm \'brace\' hydraulics are based on what I saw on the shoota arm of a mega-armored warboss blister - I like it and I think I\'m going to go with it, although there will be some pulley system rigged in like the original claw arm had as well.

As for painting, I plan on having it primarily rusted with faded red plating and maybe the occasional fresh looted plate - for example, a newer \'blue\' color plate with the ultramarines emblem painted on.

As I\'ve been thinking about it more, I really want to go with green eyes - I did it on a guntrukk that I made and I like the way it looks a lot more than I think I would yellow.

guntrukk25.jpg


Plus, they\'d match. :)

Thanks for the helpful and length post, I appreciate the feedback.
 
F

faulkns

Guest
Amazing

Wow! This thing is just bonkers

Amazing job from scratch though

Are you going to add anything like ad-hoc riveted armour plates etc - give it that orkness so to speak

http://stores.ebay.co.uk/War-Paint
 

jamsessionein

New member
gargant86.jpg


gargant87.jpg


Only a tiny bit done on the gun arm, but I like posting my W.I.P. pictures anyway as feedback is always useful. The rippa is lengthened to a proper bayonet-esque length on the barrels, as a few insightful individuals have been nice enough to point out to me that if the gargant swings the arm down, more likely than not with the shorter rippa they\'d be hitting stuff with the gun barrels. I need to build the boxy engine part for the rippa and attach it and then start working on surface details and ammo feeds. The two wrapped metal bands around the barrels look better than I thought they would initially - better than the chains did, anyhow. I\'ll probably drop two small armor support plates on either side from the bands to the exterior housing of the rippa just for some extra apparent support.
 

silasvb

New member
this is amazing.

im looking foreward to see the complete model.

just out of interest is it plasticard you are using.

i tried to produce a similar idea on a smaller scale myself
but gave up because i could not find suitable materials for
the parts.
 

jamsessionein

New member
Yeah, it\'s just plasticard. The larger barrel is actually a pen, though, just because it was the right diameter.

I\'m not sure if I like the hydraulics joint on the inner-arm towards the top barrel\'s loading chamber, but I\'ll work around it for now. I\'m also deliberating the drop-down clip system - I think I\'ll do it, but I don\'t want it sticking out too much, so the magazine\'ll probably only hold 3-4 shells anyway.

It still needs armor-plating and riveting and a bit more detail all over, but it\'s shaping up, at least.

gargant88.jpg


gargant89.jpg


gargant90.jpg
 

penguin

New member
Yep. Freaking awesome! And you\'ve done so much in such a short time; really impressive. I repeat, this better get a paintjob to match! :D
 
Back To Top
Top