RedSevenBlue
New member
It\'s lookin fantastic! I can\'t wait to see it when its finished!!!
Stompa Gargant W.I.P.
- Thread starter jamsessionein
- Start date
jamsessionein
New member
Well, it\'s a bit rough, but I think it looks good. Tricky to superheat metal hinges with a blowtorch and shove them in plastic. 
Took a little while, but I think the end result matches up to the picture suitably well. I haven\'t riveted or added glyphs to the armor plating yet - that\'ll probably come tomorrow. There\'s a little bit of cleanup on the holes that the skirt armor is hinged into that I need to do with an xacto knife, but other than that I\'m pretty happy with the way it looks - now it has a more traditional gargant-esque shape to it, with only the feet visible (from the front, anyway. The back has no skirting, so the entire leg and mechanism is visible up to about halfway up the leg springs).
The grots aren\'t in the pictures for the moment as I forgot to put them in before the pictures. They\'ll still stay removable until final painting so I can get at all the cracks and crevasses.
What do you guys think?
Took a little while, but I think the end result matches up to the picture suitably well. I haven\'t riveted or added glyphs to the armor plating yet - that\'ll probably come tomorrow. There\'s a little bit of cleanup on the holes that the skirt armor is hinged into that I need to do with an xacto knife, but other than that I\'m pretty happy with the way it looks - now it has a more traditional gargant-esque shape to it, with only the feet visible (from the front, anyway. The back has no skirting, so the entire leg and mechanism is visible up to about halfway up the leg springs).
The grots aren\'t in the pictures for the moment as I forgot to put them in before the pictures.
They\'ll still stay removable until final painting so I can get at all the cracks and crevasses.What do you guys think?
timshinn73
New member
Just keeps getting better with each update. You better paint the hell out of this guy! It\'s awesome!
jamsessionein
New member
Just for the scale of it, as well:
Should help place the gargant\'s scale for anyone having difficulty with it. It\'s small as gargants go, but it\'s a stompa through and through.
Should help place the gargant\'s scale for anyone having difficulty with it. It\'s small as gargants go, but it\'s a stompa through and through.
RedSevenBlue
New member
how far are you on the head?
Drake Farstrider
New member
Well I got to say, it is looking most impressive. Keep up the good work.
Dark Seraphim
New member
Your nutts.... this is going on my favorites list! I love the names of the crew too! Your extremely creative and it\'s so wonderful to see!
And yes, you better do it justice with a good paintjob and an awesome base
And yes, you better do it justice with a good paintjob and an awesome base
darkartminiatures
New member
That is wicked....really wicked.
jamsessionein
New member
Head\'s not been started yet, will hopefully get the jaws made today after riviting and adding glyphs to the plates. Thanks for all the support, guys!
jamsessionein
New member
A few opinion questions for you guys that I\'m interested in. I\'m wondering firstly about suggested LED colors and secondly about basing.
Now, let\'s talk about LEDs off the bat - there\'s going to be 3, as far as I can figure, all attached to the head. Two will be behind the eyes (one for each) and one on the underside of the jaw to light the grotpit. With that said, I\'m trying to figure out what color LEDs I should use in order to come up with the appropriate voltage I\'ll need (certain colors require more juice than others). Keep in mind that I\'ll be painting the gargant a combination of faded red (red goes fasta!) and rusted metal.. so the eyes should be a suitable color. I don\'t think red eyes would compliment red armor well, but bright green might be an option. (As well as orange and such). I don\'t like the thought of blue LEDs for the eyes, though, as green seems more sinister. Yellow or orange could always be an option as the eyes are going to double as zzap cannons (Gaze of Gork) but I\'m not certain.
Also, what color should the LED be that lights the grotpit? I\'m going to put it just underneath the head so it will illuminate properly, but I don\'t know if yellow is going to look silly or not. Red down in the grotpit might actually be appropriate (consider emergency lights or when they go to red alert in combat) I could always go with white, as well, but I don\'t know if that\'d be too bright.
Secondly, I wanted to discuss the base. I\'m having a few complications as I\'m thinking here - I can either make the base a small size, or a larger display size. Seeing as I\'d like to play with the gargant, and as the flavor of the next few months is going to be cityfighting, part of me doesn\'t want the base to be more than 6\" wide (to fit down some city streets and alleys). The gargant looks a little tight and restricted on a 6\" base, though, and I can\'t add some of the things I was thinking of originally, such as a footprint with the flattened grot in it and an imperial guardsman fleeing for his life. Now, I could add all those on a base, but then it would start to get to be like a diorama and impactical for gaming.. I\'m not sure what to do.
Here\'s some pictures to show you the scale of things in base-terms.
The last option I have is to make a diorama base with a hole in it large enough to fit the 6\" base of the gargant.. so that I could place the gargant in the slot and have it on a display base. I like this idea, but I don\'t know how to make the rubble look relatively seamless between the two pieces (gargant base and diorama base).
It would be something like this:
Note how you can see the mini on it\'s base slotted into the diorama base.. the only complication is that it\'s one thing to do it on snow or grass or regular flock, but I don\'t know how well rubble and urban mess will translate.
Anyway, I\'d like help with any of these above mentioned things.
Now, let\'s talk about LEDs off the bat - there\'s going to be 3, as far as I can figure, all attached to the head. Two will be behind the eyes (one for each) and one on the underside of the jaw to light the grotpit. With that said, I\'m trying to figure out what color LEDs I should use in order to come up with the appropriate voltage I\'ll need (certain colors require more juice than others). Keep in mind that I\'ll be painting the gargant a combination of faded red (red goes fasta!) and rusted metal.. so the eyes should be a suitable color. I don\'t think red eyes would compliment red armor well, but bright green might be an option. (As well as orange and such). I don\'t like the thought of blue LEDs for the eyes, though, as green seems more sinister. Yellow or orange could always be an option as the eyes are going to double as zzap cannons (Gaze of Gork) but I\'m not certain.
Also, what color should the LED be that lights the grotpit? I\'m going to put it just underneath the head so it will illuminate properly, but I don\'t know if yellow is going to look silly or not. Red down in the grotpit might actually be appropriate (consider emergency lights or when they go to red alert in combat)
I could always go with white, as well, but I don\'t know if that\'d be too bright.Secondly, I wanted to discuss the base. I\'m having a few complications as I\'m thinking here - I can either make the base a small size, or a larger display size. Seeing as I\'d like to play with the gargant, and as the flavor of the next few months is going to be cityfighting, part of me doesn\'t want the base to be more than 6\" wide (to fit down some city streets and alleys). The gargant looks a little tight and restricted on a 6\" base, though, and I can\'t add some of the things I was thinking of originally, such as a footprint with the flattened grot in it and an imperial guardsman fleeing for his life. Now, I could add all those on a base, but then it would start to get to be like a diorama and impactical for gaming.. I\'m not sure what to do.
Here\'s some pictures to show you the scale of things in base-terms.
The last option I have is to make a diorama base with a hole in it large enough to fit the 6\" base of the gargant.. so that I could place the gargant in the slot and have it on a display base. I like this idea, but I don\'t know how to make the rubble look relatively seamless between the two pieces (gargant base and diorama base).
It would be something like this:
Note how you can see the mini on it\'s base slotted into the diorama base.. the only complication is that it\'s one thing to do it on snow or grass or regular flock, but I don\'t know how well rubble and urban mess will translate.
Anyway, I\'d like help with any of these above mentioned things.
RedSevenBlue
New member
6\" base.
Bright green eyes
Red grot pit light.
-White would drown out the grots detail.
-Green eyes look wicked sweet!
-6\" base is a perfect fit cuz you have extra room.
Bright green eyes
Red grot pit light.
-White would drown out the grots detail.
-Green eyes look wicked sweet!
-6\" base is a perfect fit cuz you have extra room.
DrEvilmonki
New member
I favour the removable base option. You could disguise the join somewhat by having some lager bits of rubble attached to the 6\" inner base but overlapping the edge just slightly. Also if it\'s a custom base make the sides flat instead of sloped so that the gap around the top isn\'t so large.
RedSevenBlue
New member
No wonder your a doctor!!! lol
jamsessionein
New member
Okay...I could use wiring help from any of you that are knowledgable. There are two LEDs that need to be bright green (the eyes), and one of them needs to be red (grotpit). As I understand, the green LEDs require ~3.3v (I think it\'s 3.3 for true green, and 2.2 for yellow-green.. so I might go with the 2.2v ones), while red are around 2v to power, so I think a conventional 9v battery would work fine for this project, and would actually prefer to use a 9v battery for the convenience of being able to easily change the battery (I have one of those top-clip things for it).
I want one switch to turn everything on - I flip it on, and it turns on the two green LEDs until I flip the switch back off. In addition, I also want the red LED to turn on, but I want it to flicker, erratically if possible - much like those busted out streetlights that flicker on and off at random intervals. Random intervals would be desirable, that is, although I don\'t know if that\'s possible. I\'d prefer if the LEDs were around the 5mm size I\'m used to (I think it\'s 5mm.. whatever your average LED is).
I have very little wiring experience, and in the past I\'ve been very fortunate when my wiring projects actually turn on. With that said, I would really love to get some help with this - I have no idea how, or even if, the flickering of the red light is possible. What I do know, or rather, what I\'ve heard, is that LEDs require resistors to keep themselves from burning out, but I have no idea what kind I need to get.
I would really love any help you guys could give me, as I\'d ideally want to swing by radio shack tomorrow to pick all the stuff I need up. I can buy the LEDs themselves without a problem, and probably find a suitable switch, but I have no idea what kind of resistors I need or how to set everything up.
I want one switch to turn everything on - I flip it on, and it turns on the two green LEDs until I flip the switch back off. In addition, I also want the red LED to turn on, but I want it to flicker, erratically if possible - much like those busted out streetlights that flicker on and off at random intervals. Random intervals would be desirable, that is, although I don\'t know if that\'s possible. I\'d prefer if the LEDs were around the 5mm size I\'m used to (I think it\'s 5mm.. whatever your average LED is).
I have very little wiring experience, and in the past I\'ve been very fortunate when my wiring projects actually turn on. With that said, I would really love to get some help with this - I have no idea how, or even if, the flickering of the red light is possible. What I do know, or rather, what I\'ve heard, is that LEDs require resistors to keep themselves from burning out, but I have no idea what kind I need to get.
I would really love any help you guys could give me, as I\'d ideally want to swing by radio shack tomorrow to pick all the stuff I need up. I can buy the LEDs themselves without a problem, and probably find a suitable switch, but I have no idea what kind of resistors I need or how to set everything up.
crimeclown
New member
Dark Seraphim
New member
I would go for the 5 1/4 \" base, and do a diorama base for the rest of the \"fluff\" 6\" might be too big for gaming, but then again what is 3/4th\'s of an\" extra? ...
Great idea with LED\'s!
6\" might be too big for gaming, but then again what is 3/4th\'s of an\" extra? ...Great idea with LED\'s!
darkartminiatures
New member
Would the flickering kill the bulb? This is one hell of a crazy project.....love it.
Wiring your LEDs
A 9V should be enough to power all three LEDs, just make sure you wire them in series instead of parallel. If you\'re not sure what that means, here\'s a quick description. (I\'d draw a picture but don\'t have the tools here to do it)
Parallel wiring is all + (pos) bulb wires go to the +pos on the battery and the same for the negative. This way, all lights recieve the same voltage (9V).
Series goes like this. Connect one +pos wire to the +pos on the battery. Then connect the -neg from that same bulb to the +pos wire of the next bulb. And so on in a chain of sorts. The last -neg contact goes to the battery. This divides the voltage across all three (in this case) bulbs.
This way all three bulbs receives 3V. I know that there\'s differing voltages for each color but the voltage difference isn\'t enough to harm either bulbs.
Good Luck and I\'m watching every step on this one.
Fellow Ork Playa
www.bigshoota.com
A 9V should be enough to power all three LEDs, just make sure you wire them in series instead of parallel. If you\'re not sure what that means, here\'s a quick description. (I\'d draw a picture but don\'t have the tools here to do it)
Parallel wiring is all + (pos) bulb wires go to the +pos on the battery and the same for the negative. This way, all lights recieve the same voltage (9V).
Series goes like this. Connect one +pos wire to the +pos on the battery. Then connect the -neg from that same bulb to the +pos wire of the next bulb. And so on in a chain of sorts. The last -neg contact goes to the battery. This divides the voltage across all three (in this case) bulbs.
This way all three bulbs receives 3V. I know that there\'s differing voltages for each color but the voltage difference isn\'t enough to harm either bulbs.
Good Luck and I\'m watching every step on this one.
Fellow Ork Playa
www.bigshoota.com
