My Quest to Become a 'eavy Metal Painter (maybe...)

[mud duck]

for the giant, stick with what you've got and start to layer up to grey/white on the skin. I guess that I see "him" (now) with blood still running in 'his' veins, and I guess that your looking more for that classic bloodless look? And maybe on so 'fresh' looking on the intestines, again 'bloodless' undead look.
just my two bits.
Brian

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

@ Mad Duck, I guess I can try that. I'll go with a little bit of blood but not alot I think.

I'll try using, GW Rotting Flesh, Vallejo Bloodless Skin, Vallejo Moldy Flesh (not in that order...) The Intestines will we kinda how they are. Or I'll use the bloody undead look in on of the WD that had a tutorial.

 

[CreganTur]

This is how I created the Wet pallette I use: http://forums.brushthralls.com/index.php?showtopic=4806. It's a very cheap and easy way to make a great tool. I would suggest going to the grocery store and getting some parchment paper. If you live in the States, Reynolds makes a great brand that holds up very well.

 

[Tagamoga]

Hello Lazuli

The axe is much better now! you can see each single part. If you want to see a step by step in NMM, I can give you a link to a greman tut, but I think the foto is quite interessting:

http://www.maxpaint.de/forum/kb-tec...2660-tutorial-non-metallic-metal-seite-5.html

If you dont mind I pick up another detail this time. It is the shield. Please dont be offended, but the details on this shield seams a little bit untidy painted. Tere is a simple reason: For example the skull on the read fist. The edge that defines, where one detail begins and one ends is not visible at all and seems to be painted in the same colour for both parts. So you have the impression if somebody has painted it a little bit messy.
This you can spot in many details of your mini.

Greetings, Taggi

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

This is how I created the Wet pallette I use: http://forums.brushthralls.com/index.php?showtopic=4806. It's a very cheap and easy way to make a great tool. I would suggest going to the grocery store and getting some parchment paper. If you live in the States, Reynolds makes a great brand that holds up very well.

Hello Lazuli

The axe is much better now! you can see each single part. If you want to see a step by step in NMM, I can give you a link to a greman tut, but I think the foto is quite interessting:

http://www.maxpaint.de/forum/kb-tec...2660-tutorial-non-metallic-metal-seite-5.html

If you dont mind I pick up another detail this time. It is the shield. Please dont be offended, but the details on this shield seams a little bit untidy painted. Tere is a simple reason: For example the skull on the read fist. The edge that defines, where one detail begins and one ends is not visible at all and seems to be painted in the same colour for both parts. So you have the impression if somebody has painted it a little bit messy.
This you can spot in many details of your mini.

Greetings, Taggi

Thank you both for the tutorials! They will help alot.

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

Giant's skin is done, fairly happy with it. Brushstrokes are visible for muscle striation (right word?). Khaki is halfway basecoated.

 

[cheelfy]

Not bad but I think the shadows are a bit too dark.

 

[BPI]

Wow, he's got a raw meat look to him! Very effective, if you can match the colour tones across him it should turn out very nice indeed. I'm not too keen on the shape of his guts, they should either be spilling out, or restrained in some way, methinks I wonder if it would be possible to imply that he's about to clasp that grasped victim to his stomach to use as a temporary, if meaty, dressing? The positioning of the running victim is very good too, Giant looking straight at him, club about to swat him into the next field, I like!

Cheers, B.

 

[CreganTur]

The shadows look a bit too brown to me. Doing a very controlled wash or glaze of your basecoat over them might tone them down correctly.

If this guy is supposed to be an undead, then you may want to consider going a little lighter grey with the highlights and adding a bit of a bluish tinge to the median shadows. A little discoloration or bruising around the torn abdomen skin would also help make this pop.

 

[Tagamoga]

I have to echo CreganTur. The colour does not suits very an undead Giant.

And in my opinion the shadows are in some place not in the right spot. For example the breast. The shadow should start at the nipple and become darker to the bottom.

But this is a big model. And they are really hard to paint.

Greetings, Taggi

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

Wow, he's got a raw meat look to him! Very effective, if you can match the colour tones across him it should turn out very nice indeed. I'm not too keen on the shape of his guts, they should either be spilling out, or restrained in some way, methinks I wonder if it would be possible to imply that he's about to clasp that grasped victim to his stomach to use as a temporary, if meaty, dressing? The positioning of the running victim is very good too, Giant looking straight at him, club about to swat him into the next field, I like!

Cheers, B.

Thanks, I didn't sculpt the gut, someone threw it out and I took it in to practice on. The joins on the arm wont let you move the hand there and ?I don't want to cut up 15 hours of painting.

I have to echo CreganTur. The colour does not suits very an undead Giant.

And in my opinion the shadows are in some place not in the right spot. For example the breast. The shadow should start at the nipple and become darker to the bottom.

But this is a big model. And they are really hard to paint.

Greetings, Taggi

Thank, it is really hard to paint, I'll fix it.

The shadows look a bit too brown to me. Doing a very controlled wash or glaze of your basecoat over them might tone them down correctly.

If this guy is supposed to be an undead, then you may want to consider going a little lighter grey with the highlights and adding a bit of a bluish tinge to the median shadows. A little discoloration or bruising around the torn abdomen skin would also help make this pop.

The shadows are a brownish-red. More Red than brown. I'll add a blue tinge to it later when I ifugre out where and how.


The giant is not too dark, just took pics at night again

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

Sorry for bad non-day time pictures, but Giant skin is highlighted a few more, added more blood, and did first few layer of cloth. Sorry for blurry pics too. Some of the skin highlights run into the recesses so that needs to be fixed.

 

[exilesjjb]

Hi there the giant is coming along nice, you do need to blend more between your sade colour and the flesh base colour.
Quick question did you start with the darkest colour and add the flesh colour or start with a flesh base colour and add shade?
The anwswer to this would help me advise you better

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

Hi there the giant is coming along nice, you do need to blend more between your sade colour and the flesh base colour.
Quick question did you start with the darkest colour and add the flesh colour or start with a flesh base colour and add shade?
The anwswer to this would help me advise you better

Well thats kind of hard to day, I painted it and wasn't happy with it and painted over that leaving recesses. The total list of colors is:

Tallarn Flesh
Purple Ink, thraka Green, Asurmen Blue,

Tallarn Flesh blened to Grecthin Green blended to Reaer Moldy Flesh, Blended to Reaper Bloodless Flesh to Bleached Bone

Wasn't happy so washed Baal Red
Had nice shading from previous colors

Blended to Tallarn Flesh- Reaper Moldy Flesh Blended to Reaper Bloodless Flesh. So I guess I kinda painted over it.

 

[exilesjjb]

ok I guess I will tell you both ways. If you start from dark you have do lots of layers of the base tone covering a smaller area every few coats this if you have your paints thin enough will give you a good blend from dark to base. If you start with the base tone then you can do the layers with you shade tone again moving further into the shade with each layer.
I think that make sense but if not do not worry there are a few other ways to get a good result its just I use this one.
All the best James

 

[Hard Cover]

quick note on blood splatters, unless you want them looking cartoony, blood dries brown. Usually I start with vermin brown if I want it looking somewhat fresh I drybrush a touch of blood red in the center of it but leave the edges darker. sometimes I was that with devlan mud, depends on how much work I want to put into it I guess.

The highlights are looking much better, but your having a really harsh contrast between that and the brown basecoat on the flesh.try to soften this up a bit by blending some really watered down wash over the joining areas between flesh and shadow.

 

[CreganTur]

Blood color is one of the most debated aspects of painting- no matter what technique you use, someone will more than likely criticize it (not necessarily in a bad way). Dried blood does go brown, but fresh blood really is a color very close to GW Blood Red (been to too many accident sites to not know this one).

To suggest another technique:
for large blood smears:
-basecoat with Red Gore
-highlight with Blood Red- highlights will be more in center as endges dry faster
-glaze with Brown Ink
-retouch highlights with Blood Red
-touch deepest recesses (if desired) with a very controlled and thinned bit of Black Ink

for blood spatter:
-make a thin mix of Red Gore
Hold brush in your hand like a knife with the bristles pointing up
-use your thumb to pull back the bristles and let them snap back in place- this will spray your miniature with the paint to mimic realistic blood splatter
-retouch splatter with Blood Red highlights- darken for dried blood effect

be sure to practice the splatter method a few times before using it on a model.

 

[iron wrench]

Hello, I don’t know much about your background, and seeing as you are so young let me fill you in on a bit of information about the ‘eavy metal team. I know an ex-member of the ‘eavy metal team (Trent Nighman). He taught me some great tips that I can pass on.

>>If you are pursuing to be an ‘eavy metal painter you need to become skilled at “their way” of painting i.e. outlining with black “black-lining”. You should try to work from a black primer and strictly use GW line of paints. Even though NNM looks great ‘eavy metal rarely uses that method because GW wants them to show off their line of paints. Which we all know has metallic paints. So you should learn how to use/do both. You need to be looking at the master class paint sessions on the GW site to acquire an eye for the style of ‘eavy metal. They also have great articles in White Dwarf you should be reading. You should also develop you own unique style. P.S try to use different brushes.

>>Usually Golden Daemon winners are offered a spot on the team so long as the meet the GW standard. I also think you should work a building up other skills like sculpting, drawing, and possible writing. There are so many other people like you with the same goal. They are all saying “wow that’s awesome” and “I want to be like them!” Learning other skills will only set you ahead. Building up a resume will also greatly help. Like entering/winning every Golden Daemon you can from now until you accomplish your dream. Maybe even try to write up a white dwarf submission they might just feature it!

>>You need to learn what humility is and how to humble yourself. You don’t always need to respond to or agree with some of the criticism, but you should always be listening. You just never know when it will help. I.e. you didn’t need to respond you may have insulted this person leading to less or no feedback from someone that could have helped you.

“Oh, I see what you mean, more highlights? Lysander and his fists are on trench bases from Dragon forge. I wanted them to be stuck in a trench battle or something. They don't always fight on high-tech battlefields.”

>>If you want to ask me anything else feel free to. I can tell already if you stick to learning the ways young ‘eayy metal you will be a great painter.

 

[Hard Cover]

Iron wrench, I didn't feel insulted But I see what you were saying there.

I just feel like I need to be posting more work on here and critiquing less. I've just been doing alot of Orky conversion and very little painting as of late.

 

[-=Lazuli=-]

Iron wrench, I didn't feel insulted But I see what you were saying there.

I just feel like I need to be posting more work on here and critiquing less. I've just been doing alot of Orky conversion and very little painting as of late.

Didn't mean it in an insulting way I see how he thought that. See what happens when I type? Oringinally it was going to be Blood Pact on the same bases and them fighting, but never got to BP.

Blood color is one of the most debated aspects of painting- no matter what technique you use, someone will more than likely criticize it (not necessarily in a bad way). Dried blood does go brown, but fresh blood really is a color very close to GW Blood Red (been to too many accident sites to not know this one).

To suggest another technique:
for large blood smears:
-basecoat with Red Gore
-highlight with Blood Red- highlights will be more in center as endges dry faster
-glaze with Brown Ink
-retouch highlights with Blood Red
-touch deepest recesses (if desired) with a very controlled and thinned bit of Black Ink

for blood spatter:
-make a thin mix of Red Gore
Hold brush in your hand like a knife with the bristles pointing up
-use your thumb to pull back the bristles and let them snap back in place- this will spray your miniature with the paint to mimic realistic blood splatter
-retouch splatter with Blood Red highlights- darken for dried blood effect

be sure to practice the splatter method a few times before using it on a model.

quick note on blood splatters, unless you want them looking cartoony, blood dries brown. Usually I start with vermin brown if I want it looking somewhat fresh I drybrush a touch of blood red in the center of it but leave the edges darker. sometimes I was that with devlan mud, depends on how much work I want to put into it I guess.

The highlights are looking much better, but your having a really harsh contrast between that and the brown basecoat on the flesh.try to soften this up a bit by blending some really watered down wash over the joining areas between flesh and shadow.

ok I guess I will tell you both ways. If you start from dark you have do lots of layers of the base tone covering a smaller area every few coats this if you have your paints thin enough will give you a good blend from dark to base. If you start with the base tone then you can do the layers with you shade tone again moving further into the shade with each layer.
I think that make sense but if not do not worry there are a few other ways to get a good result its just I use this one.
All the best James

Thanks guys, I'll add more pictures of the Giant tommarow. The shading is kinda harsh, but adds to the undead look, I got the idea from one of the 'eavy Metal painting guides.

And concerning blood, I'll keep my technique on that one using the Clear Red and Delvan Mud and Badab Black. Depending on the washes, it makes it look drier or fresher. At my local Gw, the display minis all have my technique for blood and no one's said anything about it.