Brushstrokes, Gradients and Grog (Alowans WIP)

[Alowan]

Hi everyone,

I have been posting some WIP in another thread long ago - but since that was when I was just beginning (restarting) painting it has passed into the shadows.
Even though I did not update my old WIP a lot I painted quite a bit and improved my painting considerably.

Recently I discovered that I really enjoy taking my time with a single project or miniature rather than large scale army projects. That means that I enjoy doing several layers of really thin paint. I know I am crazy but there are something about adding layers of paint to a miniature that calms me and removes stress from an otherwise stressed day.
So to make a long story short. I have decided to put a bunch of time into few miniatures and post the WIP here in hope of getting feedback, tips and hopefully entertaining someone the way I have been entertained by WIP posts.

First of all I decided to redo my DIY wet palette with some Masterson wet palette paper since the parchment paper I can get in my local grocery stores falls apart.
I also decided to start dilleuting my paints more - and to do that I decided to experiment with different addetives.

I ended up with the following base addetive mix:
50% demineralised water
25% W&N Flow improver
25% Liquitex slow-dry

And it seems to work great. I feel like I have way more brush control (might be my new W&N brushes) and I think the layers look smoother and without brushstrokes (which was my goal when I started to dillute my paint more).


So today after several tests etc. with the new setup I began painting a "real" mini.
I decided on a mini I have had for over 15 years. The Britonia Maiden.
She is an amazing sculp and I have feared painting her for quite some time - but what better way to start again.

Here are some pictures of the work so far: (note that the blending itself looks smoother in real life and with more contrast):

On a different note I have been having problems with the thinner paints on my palette - or maybe the new wet palette paper. (dont have any of the old so cant test it).
It seems like the paints gets the water sucked out of them from the sponge or somthing - or just floats out. I don't really know what is going on.
So if anyone have any suggestions or ideas what to do about it I would love to hear them.

See this image for a better idea of what the problem is:

Looking forward to showing my WIP here,
best regards
Alowan


Here is an edit with some of my older uploads:

 

[ten ball]

Hi, dont use that paper. Use a baking / grease proof paper that has a fine film of water on top. Around the edge have a wet tissue also. I use a small pump spray (like a aftershave bottle) with water to spray over also.

 

[Alowan]

Thanks for the reply. I was using baking paper before and even found one that did not "fluff" but I was thinking that the masterson paper would work better since it is made for it. I just tried using the fluffy baking paper I had but the dillution dissolves the paper after a few brushstrokes over it.

Might see if I can find the non-fluffy one I have used before and give that a go - just can't see why the mastersons paper dosent work Might even go back to a normal palette if I can dillute this much on a wet one..


Thanks for the pump spray tip - actually never thought of that but it is a great idea.


p.s. cool to have a painter you admire comment on your post. Loved your patrol at GD.

 

[infelix]

I haven't had much success using a wet palette for glazes and such so I use a normal well palette for that and the wet for the rest.

 

[Alowan]

First of all thanks for the tips etc. been trying to put them to good use. I have tried 3 diffrent wet palette setups and it seems that the masterson paper just isent fit for paint that dilluted. More on the little test another time.

In regard to my WIP. I have been trying to use wash to add shading - but the GW wash dosen't take well to being dilluted down with water and I ended up with some "really nice" frosting on my mini. Thankfully I have somewhat fixed it.

I also started to work around with ideas for where I want to take the mini. Originally the idea was a fire inspired mage so I am thinking about making the sword "molten" and have been tinkering a bit around with that. (as you can see in the images)

I choose red and yellow since they are some of the colors I have the hardest time painting. And I am playing around with the idea of making her underclothing + the ribbons white - another color I have a hard time painting.
Now if I just did the sword etc. in NMM I would pretty much do all the stuff I have a hard time doing on one mini - quite a reboot

Still can't figure out if that is the way to go and what color hair she should have - reddish or brown was the original idea but that might be a bit too much red on one mini.

Ideas and feedback much appreciated.

p.s. sorry for my spelling and english. It is not my native language and I am writing my posts from an iPad without spellchecker. (also the reason for the bad images)

 

[Alowan]

Okay another update (as much for myself as for anyone here )

I tried to add highlight to the red and yellow parts of the dress. It was way harder than I thought it would be - normally I can hightlight/layer but with paint this thin and wanting smooth gradients both between red and yellow and shade and highlight it was harder than expected. I still think I should add more contrast but it is really hard when the "highlight" color and the gradient kinda mix together. Plus I am still having some problems with my wet palette - using my old parchment paper worked better (thanks for the tip). But the paint somehow seperates on the palette.

I also gave working with more than one tone at a time a try - I can see the benefit but it is really hard when you start out

Hopefully this will turn out okay - I think I will end up with something along tabletop quality or a bit higher simply due to the amount of mistakes I make and having to redo parts of the mini. Still loving the addetive and the thin paints tho - even tho it is harder to use to begin with.


Here is an image of the progess (if you can see any diffrence)
C&C very welcome.

 

[Gandalf the Grey]

The transition is really looking smooth.

 

[oistene]

Yeah, I like the transitions as well. Great start on NMM on that sword. The mini does look a bit chalky, but I wouldn't worry about that - as you are starting to master thinner paints, it should fix itself as the chalkiness probably comes from too thick layers. You should do fine with a little practice, I had the same problem but recently got the hang of it. Here's a great article you might find handy, it helped me a lot: http://forum.reapermini.com/index.php?/topic/32050-how-to-blend-by-olliekickflip/

 

[MAXXxxx]

as the chalkiness probably comes from too thick layers.

???
ime it comes mostly from too big of a jump in colors and overworking on the blending.

 

[oistene]

Guess you can get it many ways, I experience it less when I thin my paints enough. Or maybe we're not referring to the same thing? I'm thinking of the non-smooth surface that you if you're not careful.

 

[Perbius]

Transitions are definitely looking smooth and soft...I can see you've put in a good amount of work! About the Masterson's paper: my local Michaels has the Mastersons sponge pad and am considering getting the accompanying paper, but you've confirmed what I've been reading and will pass on them.

 

[Alowan]

Transitions are definitely looking smooth and soft...I can see you've put in a good amount of work! About the Masterson's paper: my local Michaels has the Mastersons sponge pad and am considering getting the accompanying paper, but you've confirmed what I've been reading and will pass on them.

Great that I could help someone not make the same mistake I did Use parchment paper instead - works way better!

Also played around with diffrent addetives / Lahmian medium etc.
Still not sure what I prefer - more testing is needed.

My current plan is to play around testing different techniques and then start to paint some of the "cooler" miniatures I have bought (will show some images later). I also have a bunch of W&N brushes that I am too afraid to use just yet - but looking forward to it.

I have started on the skintone on the damsel and played around with zenithal priming + skintones on morg n' thorg. But I am having a hard time with the citadel flesh paints and light paints in general. They tend to be very chalky.
The thin paint is also still quite new to me and I am working on figuring out how thin I prefer it. All WIP Also currently trying out using a normal palette instead of the wet palette.

Hopefully I will become a better painter by trying different things etc. and tips C&C are most welcome! And if anyone know a good tutorial on "small" faces it would be much appreciated.

Here are some WIPs: (note that the slight satin look is due to the bright light and slightly wet paint - still haven't got myself a lightbox) (and the bad prep on mog - doing this as a fast one for a friend)

 

[Alowan]

I am working on some BB miniatures that look alike to the ones PaintedbyG has made (some of the coolest BB minis IMO). If you haven't seen them check them out on CMON.
Here are som WIP of the mini.

I am having a bit of a hard time scuptning the deep recess of the hand since I cant sand it down there. If anyone has ideas of how to smoothen something that is placed in a recess please write a reply.

 

[oistene]

I have a mini chisel - while it can't sand, it is great for those hard to reach places. Cut really, really carefully, and you get a smooth surface. Another alternative is to get a slim, pointed file, this is my go-to tool for almost all prep and all materials.

 

[Alowan]

I have a mini chisel - while it can't sand, it is great for those hard to reach places. Cut really, really carefully, and you get a smooth surface. Another alternative is to get a slim, pointed file, this is my go-to tool for almost all prep and all materials.

I have a small round file with a point. I will try that.. Otherwise im off to buying a chisel! Thanks for the tip.

 

[GreenOne]

Hi, by reading your thread I came up with a few pointers, might help you with somethings.
All your tribulation with palette+consistency+medium seem to come from an overdose of forum tip reading, all worthy tips but you don't need all of that to perfect your brushwork. If all the physics keep changing all around you paint (New additive, new palette, etc.) you'll put less focus on the very simple relation between you, your brush, your mini and your paints; and thus things happen that you wouldn't have to deal with otherwise and its harder to troubleshoot since all the variables are changing . Special additive should be needed if you use special technique or if your tap water is special, if you work mainly with layering it's not that helpful imo. If any of that doesn't make things better for you or more effective right away, shed it. Just m2c.

The palette paper sold in art craft is made for canvas painting, thicker paints, larger blobs, wont react adversely to the paper. For wet palette purpose, baking or parchment paper does fine.

Dilution is purpose based, you dilute a cetain color a certain way for a certain effect, its not a religion; you thin a basecoat only so it doesnt streak or obscure details, more than that is wasting time. you dilute layers to obtain semi-transparancy, and so on.

Over-diluting can create as much problem as it solves.

The chalky thing often come from over diluting light colors, the binder ratio goes down and the pigments don't distridute evenly, they clump up places and create that unpleasing opacity you are trying to avoid in the first place.

You can use a small piece of sandpaper fixed to the tip of a needle or a bare needle with some toothpaste to reach into recesses.

Hope this is a bit helpful, happy painting.

 

[Alowan]

Hi, by reading your thread I came up with a few pointers, might help you with somethings.
All your tribulation with palette+consistency+medium seem to come from an overdose of forum tip reading, all worthy tips but you don't need all of that to perfect your brushwork. If all the physics keep changing all around you paint (New additive, new palette, etc.) you'll put less focus on the very simple relation between you, your brush, your mini and your paints; and thus things happen that you wouldn't have to deal with otherwise and its harder to troubleshoot since all the variables are changing . Special additive should be needed if you use special technique or if your tap water is special, if you work mainly with layering it's not that helpful imo. If any of that doesn't make things better for you or more effective right away, shed it. Just m2c.

The palette paper sold in art craft is made for canvas painting, thicker paints, larger blobs, wont react adversely to the paper. For wet palette purpose, baking or parchment paper does fine.

Dilution is purpose based, you dilute a cetain color a certain way for a certain effect, its not a religion; you thin a basecoat only so it doesnt streak or obscure details, more than that is wasting time. you dilute layers to obtain semi-transparancy, and so on.

Over-diluting can create as much problem as it solves.

The chalky thing often come from over diluting light colors, the binder ratio goes down and the pigments don't distridute evenly, they clump up places and create that unpleasing opacity you are trying to avoid in the first place.

You can use a small piece of sandpaper fixed to the tip of a needle or a bare needle with some toothpaste to reach into recesses.

Hope this is a bit helpful, happy painting.

Thanks, that is some solid advice! - too much advice can be bad after all . Guess it all comes down to practice, practice, practice..

After working on the skin I figured I really liked the way the thin paint on zenithal priming looked and was to work with - So I decided to try to stick to that path and work on brushcontrol etc. with everything else stable. The plan is to do 4-5 minis that way with my normal brushes and then start using the WN brushes when I am sure I wont damage them.

 

[Alowan]

Another WIP. I am working on fixing some errors I did when cutting, and trying to fit it all together before I start venturing into greenstuff land..
I feel like liquid green stuff is rather bad at closing gaps - and that I just get mushy greenstuff all over - but might be my not wanting to use a fine brush for it.

 

[GreenOne]

You might want to get your hand on some miliput, its softer when fresh, very water soluble so its easier to clean up around the filling and seeps into cracks with less efforts.

 

[Alowan]

I am still working on BB orc mini convertions. Thanks for the tips have been very usefull.

Currently I am working on the second Blitzer but cant decide what head he should have. The options is as below or with the horned helmet without horns (flat sides).
Suggestions would be much appriciated.