Coyotesbreaks Projects

[SkelettetS]

cool choices of miniatures!

for the blue, imo just shading with dark blue oc work but i believe it would look much more interesting if you use other colors too. dark green, why not? and you can always mix the shading tones, like dirty brown under armpits etc. more colors, more fun. and perhaps a step out of comfort zone

 

[BloodASmedium]

or the ork some red greens down to red purples in the most light starved recesses should really bring about the popping by adding contrast in two ways,1st) contrast by dark and light tones,2nd the proper colors like shading with the green colors compliment will bring about somemore contrast but by "color contrsst" . I always shade with complimentary coors (colors opposite one another on the wheel so greens compliment are red,red purple ,purple) @ highlight the colors by using analogous colors (these are colors that lye adjacent one another on the wheel,yellow green ,yellow etc).pick up the book called color theory by Betty edwards.it will teach you what tones and shades / highlights you should be appropriately using in your pallette.this knowledge is a significant game changer in miniature painting.knowing what colors to use and why is just as if not more important than you techniques like two brush blending and highlight placement (for things like highlight placement I suggest the stop sign rule)

 

[Coyotebreaks]

cool choices of miniatures!

for the blue, imo just shading with dark blue oc work but i believe it would look much more interesting if you use other colors too. dark green, why not? and you can always mix the shading tones, like dirty brown under armpits etc. more colors, more fun. and perhaps a step out of comfort zone

thanks SkelettetS, yes really into mutants and green skins at the mo, I find the blending on the skin fun challenge.

some good ideas there, definitely out my confirm zone, but worth trying as its all learning.

or the ork some red greens down to red purples in the most light starved recesses should really bring about the popping by adding contrast in two ways,1st) contrast by dark and light tones,2nd the proper colors like shading with the green colors compliment will bring about somemore contrast but by "color contrsst" . I always shade with complimentary coors (colors opposite one another on the wheel so greens compliment are red,red purple ,purple) @ highlight the colors by using analogous colors (these are colors that lye adjacent one another on the wheel,yellow green ,yellow etc).pick up the book called color theory by Betty edwards.it will teach you what tones and shades / highlights you should be appropriately using in your pallette.this knowledge is a significant game changer in miniature painting.knowing what colors to use and why is just as if not more important than you techniques like two brush blending and highlight placement (for things like highlight placement I suggest the stop sign rule)

really cool tips and articles, thanks a lot, i have skimmed though and very interesting,will digest in more detila next, but that lighting one, looks like it will be very handy.

ad it happens I have that colour theory book, but I never got round to reading it all. I have tried to use the basics of it in the bast but its not really worked, mainly I think because I'm using premised colours and they never seem to have the effect I think they will, I should maybe get some more prime colours in my arsenal.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

I have done some more work on the model, tried to blend some green into the shadows, its not come out quite how I thought but might work out. the blending is still quite sketchy at present mainly to try and place shadows so it looks a real mess.

Im hoping I will be able to get it tidier, so far it doesn't seem to be going as well as my goblin king did. not sure why its such a struggle this time round, but there you go.....

 

[BloodASmedium]

Little quick lesson.. If your ever let's say using green and red... There are tins millions of colors of both these are called times. Now they are all derived from 3"primary colors" red yellow and blue I believe. The thing is this their are saturated and unsaturated basically more red/green or less intense red green. My tip is this I'm always mixing colors when I work I don't or hardly use triads or any recipes for that matter I am "on the fly" basically using my color wheel and a few tips 1)I always shade with a cooled down complimentary colors so if I'm shading red ill use a green but with a Lil blue in it to cool it down. Now I always highlight with warm analogous colors. What I mean is I balance out the cool shade with a warm analogous highlight so if I'm HL red ill use oranges ,yellows but with a on the last steps ill desaturated and warm the. hL up brighter with a beige for example as a cool HL might have a space wolves grey in it. Now my last tip is this if your using pure primary colors for a base and or a shade and or a HL then you must include all your steps with a primary mixed in as if let's say you use a blue but it's not a primary then you WOULD NOT use primaries anywhere on the models if you are using primaries than the whole color scheme should have primaries. Last tip "read the book or at least the first half" you'll level up instantly as the colors you choose will be more eye catching and furthermore aid in your contrast immediately !!! Any questions coyote ill help you no matter what. A few people on this site have leveled up their painting like "epic mini painting" because they now use their wheel and paint "in the fly"!!!

 

[Coyotebreaks]

Little quick lesson.. If your ever let's say using green and red... There are tins millions of colors of both these are called times. Now they are all derived from 3"primary colors" red yellow and blue I believe. The thing is this their are saturated and unsaturated basically more red/green or less intense red green. My tip is this I'm always mixing colors when I work I don't or hardly use triads or any recipes for that matter I am "on the fly" basically using my color wheel and a few tips 1)I always shade with a cooled down complimentary colors so if I'm shading red ill use a green but with a Lil blue in it to cool it down. Now I always highlight with warm analogous colors. What I mean is I balance out the cool shade with a warm analogous highlight so if I'm HL red ill use oranges ,yellows but with a on the last steps ill desaturated and warm the. hL up brighter with a beige for example as a cool HL might have a space wolves grey in it. Now my last tip is this if your using pure primary colors for a base and or a shade and or a HL then you must include all your steps with a primary mixed in as if let's say you use a blue but it's not a primary then you WOULD NOT use primaries anywhere on the models if you are using primaries than the whole color scheme should have primaries. Last tip "read the book or at least the first half" you'll level up instantly as the colors you choose will be more eye catching and furthermore aid in your contrast immediately !!! Any questions coyote ill help you no matter what. A few people on this site have leveled up their painting like "epic mini painting" because they now use their wheel and paint "in the fly"!!!

thanks for the tips and help its very much appreciated. I have dug the book out and will give it another read.

ill even mix some orange into my base colour tonight and see how that looks.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

so a little more progress has happened. I have smoothed the blending out some on the flesh. but basically realised I had taken the shadows too far. so its been a bit tricky getting it to look how I want. its still not there really but will do for.

I have treid to put into practise some colour theory, so I used brown for the cloths, which is bascaily orange, and then darkened with blue. andI have also used orange for his tongue.

so yes this is where I'm at.

 

[moetle]

I like where you are going with this. Are you going to put a bug on the end of its tongue?

 

[Coyotebreaks]

I like where you are going with this. Are you going to put a bug on the end of its tongue?

Thanks moetle, I hadn't thought about making a fly, but it sound a good idea.

Not sure how to go about making such a thing though. Any ideas ?

 

[moetle]

Catch one and hose it down with varnish, apply glue. That's what i would do anyways There was a GD winner a while back of an Ork warboss on a bike with a big grin. He had bugs in his teeth, and they were actual bugs.

 

[BloodASmedium]

That golden demon winner and dear friend I remeber-Canada's own -Vincent Hudson-and yes used real nats for the Mosquitos btw moe has a good point and coyote its looking great bud !'n

 

[moetle]

Thanks BAM, I couldn't remember his name. That warboss was one of the coolest things from 40k EVER! It was incredible.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

thank for the comments and encouragement every one.

Catch one and hose it down with varnish, apply glue. That's what i would do anyways There was a GD winner a while back of an Ork warboss on a bike with a big grin. He had bugs in his teeth, and they were actual bugs.

nice one thats a cool idea. I will keep my eyes peeled for a suitable fly. my cat sometimes leaves them lying around so should not take to too long

I remember that mini, it was very cool. didnt realise the flys were real though

 

[Coyotebreaks]

a bit more progress this week, not loads as has been a busy week with other stuff.but I have put some time into the details. so just the base to do now I think then maybe a bit more of a tidy. and I'm keeping my eyes peeled for a suitable fly to put on his tongue

I was close to giving up on this one, but glad I didn't as I have learned quite a bit doing this one.

 

[BloodASmedium]

Looking good what I would do is a final highlight very thinned beige like screaming skull etc apply it in glazed form and only on the top areas the raised fists knuckles ,the top of the head any part that your eyes would see as if you looked at it straight down from above view.that's how us guys find our highest points just look at it straight down in your hand.now again It's a wonderfully painted smooth model.smooth essential is essential.and you've nailed it but a Lil beige which is a yellow based color and yellow is the counterpart compliment to blue so that's how I would attack it.not needed by any means just an idea how my brain works and my thought pattern and mindset when painting blue.what I d is when I apply a base color of a color I chose I always add a Lil beige to all my colors this way when I apply my glazing of shades it's much more pronounced because that lighter color now pops even more due to a higher dark light contrsst ratio. Great job bud all around.its great to see you getting much better each and every model.Watchung folks like yourself is much more fun than any of the other aspects on cmon.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

Looking good what I would do is a final highlight very thinned beige like screaming skull etc apply it in glazed form and only on the top areas the raised fists knuckles ,the top of the head any part that your eyes would see as if you looked at it straight down from above view.that's how us guys find our highest points just look at it straight down in your hand.now again It's a wonderfully painted smooth model.smooth essential is essential.and you've nailed it but a Lil beige which is a yellow based color and yellow is the counterpart compliment to blue so that's how I would attack it.not needed by any means just an idea how my brain works and my thought pattern and mindset when painting blue.what I d is when I apply a base color of a color I chose I always add a Lil beige to all my colors this way when I apply my glazing of shades it's much more pronounced because that lighter color now pops even more due to a higher dark light contrsst ratio. Great job bud all around.its great to see you getting much better each and every model.Watchung folks like yourself is much more fun than any of the other aspects on cmon.

thanks very much for comments BAM, glad you can see progress. sometimes t feels like one step forward to steps back. . I will give that last hi light a go. I have some mouldy ochre which may fit the bill.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

so over the last couple of days I have been prepping my next model and today I started to put some paint on a last.

I decided I need a break from mutants and trolls and stuff with loads of flesh and work on some cloth as well as try t achieve a slightly more natural flesh tone. so with tha tin mind i have decided to work on this grey seer (one of my fave sckaven models gw do).

I have also decided to ty and focus on one part at a time to see if I find it a better way to work. so today I focussed on the face. I have got as far as the shadows today ready to start work on hi light tomorrow

so yes lots of new things to learn on this model, quite excited about this one as well.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

a little more work done on the grey seer. tried to get some hi lights going on the flesh and do some more smoothing. smoothing went Ok but hi lights are proving tricky. I also go the hair done and base coated the horns. not sure which way to go with the horns yet.

either dark brown for shadows or dark blue.

 

[Coyotebreaks]

i think this is probably the longest i have spent on a head and still plenty to do. i think I'm going to need to get some more colour on other areas soon though as its hard to tell if things are going to work.

I think i am starting to get my head round how coloured shadows work. these are quit bright and yet to me they seem to work. I could be wrong though

 

[Gandalf the Grey]

Coming on nicely, smooth blending.