what is this dipping technique for gw models?

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Cherry Bomber

New member
I have three old icecream tubs full of GW Tyranid, Chaos warriors, Chaos Marauders, Tzeentch Chaos Demons and Undead lying around in the spare room.

I have had the idea of slapping the whole lot togther into an army and making some sort of freaky Lovecraftian mess out of it all.

Imagine a Tyranizeenurgldeaite army...

This \'Dipping\' technique could be just the thing to make me actually get off my arse and do it.

Say I strolled on over to BnQ today and picked up some stainer, which type should I go for?

Can you get said stainer in other weirder \'non-brown\' colours? Say purple or green? I imagine green would be most likely because its a \'garden colour\' maybe I coul even get a grey/charcoaly coloured stainer?

What do you use to thin it down, and where can you get it? Whats this danish oil stuff?

The pictures dont really let me see or understand how the results of \'Dipping\' is that much different from a normal \'big splashy ink wash\' using thinned-down brown or flesh inks. Can you explain the differences between these things?

Is it just something you have to see for yourself IRL?
 
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orctrader

Guest
Originally posted by Cherry Bomber
I have three old icecream tubs full of GW Tyranid, Chaos warriors, Chaos Marauders, Tzeentch Chaos Demons and Undead lying around in the spare room.

I have had the idea of slapping the whole lot togther into an army and making some sort of freaky Lovecraftian mess out of it all.

Imagine a Tyranizeenurgldeaite army...

This \'Dipping\' technique could be just the thing to make me actually get off my arse and do it.

Say I strolled on over to BnQ today and picked up some stainer, which type should I go for?

Can you get said stainer in other weirder \'non-brown\' colours? Say purple or green? I imagine green would be most likely because its a \'garden colour\' maybe I coul even get a grey/charcoaly coloured stainer?

What do you use to thin it down, and where can you get it? Whats this danish oil stuff?

The pictures dont really let me see or understand how the results of \'Dipping\' is that much different from a normal \'big splashy ink wash\' using thinned-down brown or flesh inks. Can you explain the differences between these things?

Is it just something you have to see for yourself IRL?
Click to expand...

I use \"Woodland\" green from homebase for my garden fences. It\'s water-based and not much thicker than water. When I was first considering my \"project\" I took one of my test minis - a plastic skeleton warrior - that already had various paint \"tests\" on it and dipped it into the woodland green.

24 hours later the recesses were all quite a dark green and the higher areas had kept a light green glaze.

Green is no good for my project but it certainly had an affect :)
 
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orctrader

Guest
Originally posted by Cherry Bomber
Did it not go all thick or obsure the detail at all?

How is it for painting on.

Was it homebases own brand????
Click to expand...

Whoa! Remember, this was a quick test. However.
I can\'t recall if it was their own brand, but if it\'s water-based I imagine one lot is much the same as another. Though this is pretty thin even after stirring. Problem is you have to buy such a lot - BIG can. But then who would want to buy a small tin for a fence?

As for application, well as others have written, it\'s quite strange. I dipped the mini in - stuck the base to a pot and dipped it upside down. Then placed it the right way up. Then, because there seemed to be a lot of the stuff I gave it a bit of a shake to remove the access. Then stood it the right way up and thought \"what a mess, this will never work.\" But 24 hours later, when it had dried it had worked just like a wash. In my test there was no obscuring of detail. As for painting on, I never tried.

Might be worth asking all your friends and relatives what they use for the fences and check the sheds. They will think you\'re mad of course but that\'s never worried me lol
 
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Cherry Bomber

New member
Weeeell, it\'s amazing what a quick quorn sarnie and a cuppa can go for the memory.

Turns out theres some stainer stashed right next to me kitchen!

So I\'ve got me stacks of unpainted skelly and zomb miniatures out now, ripe and ready for the dipping tests to comence!

I\'ll go try it on a couple an see what happens!:D
 
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vincegamer

New member
Originally posted by SilverthornOnce dipped in a urethane based stain, NO paint will stick to the model.

The only way I found to paint over it is to varnish it with Testor dullcoat sealant. Then you can use acrylic paint over it.
Click to expand...
Have you tried painting on stained glass medium? Some folks around me use it as a primer and it\'s apparently great for fixing mistakes because you can cover the area only without messing up what\'s around it (the medium is clear and brushes on and dries mat).
 
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marineboy

New member
I\'m gonna see what I can find here in DK, there are far too many unfinished Genestealers from Space Hulk on my work table , this might be a workable route to get them done!
 
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Frakktal

New member
Dippin\' Nids

Here\'s a link to show the before and after difference on a \'nid that\'s been dipped.

Dipped Nid

The link shows the difference pretty clearly I think.

My turn order for dipping my nids (sounds awful doesn\'t it?) goes something like...
1) Primer Black
2) Spray GW Bleached Bone over the whole model
3) Paint the body in Red Gore - leave the armor plates Bleached Bone.
4) Dip in Minwax Water-based Walnut stain
5) Shake and stand up on newspaper - Repeat
6) Wait 24 hrs to dry and come back to brush highlights with Bleached Bone and Blood Red.

Replace the Red Gore with Camo Green as in the link or do your own scheme.
 
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marineboy

New member
Frakktal, that page is sooooooobookmarked...that\'s an awsome result for such a simple technique.:eek:

my question for your order of business -- why wait with the drybrushing until after the second dipping? Do the highlights get too dulled underneath the second coat?
 
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DraconisTsai

New member
Better living through chemistry and dipping

I ran across this as an option for my 11 year old son to get his armies painted. I picked up minwax water based for a varietiy of reasons, mostly cleanup and ability to thin the color. my first tests were less than satisfactory the results looked just like a bad ink wash. Then I had an idea, and added some Future floor wax of Magic Wash fame. The results were much better and gave me total control of just how much tint I wanted and where it went on the model.
Not something I will use on everything but it is certainly a tool that I will keep around.

---Draconis T\'sai
 
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marineboy

New member
DT, you tease -- what are your secret mixing proprtions for mixing miniwax with future? Is it variable -- that is, more color, less coverage = more future?
 
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DraconisTsai

New member
This is a kinda rough formula but should do the trick.
Total volume 50ml
35ml Waterbase Stain
15ml water
10ml Future

The 10ml of Future is a steady part of the formula. You can modify the Stain to water ratio depending on whether you want the dip to go mostly into the recesses or if you want the stain to tint all of the colors.
The mix above will stain the colors and shade the recesses. Increase the water if you want to make it primarily go into the recesses.
If you use the dip over plain white primer it makes a nice bone effect if you use Walnut or Rosewood.
If you want more specifics drop me a line at draconis@astraldreams.net

---Draconis T\'sai
 
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marineboy

New member
At the gw grand tournament this past weekend in Copenhagen (didn\'t play, just went to hep for a friend), one of the five armies chosen as contestants for Best Painted was.....a dipped pirate for consisting mainly of Ogre Kingdoms figures.

Like a sap, I had no camera.:duh:

The army was....interesting in its paint, a little dark, but with no highlights worked over the stain, well, the effect was good anyways. Some highlighting wouls\'ve been in order to my taste.

The fun thing was, the army was created to showcase the new product being marketted by Fanatic, a gaming shop in Roskilde about 30 miles away from Copenhagen. The owner of the shop has (chosen, developed, one or the other) from the selection of products of a local paint company.

The product (forget the name) comes in four shades, dark, medium, light and superlight -- the army shown at the grand tournament was done in light,(which I
still thought was dark).

The dip mix is polyurethane based and quite thick -- the shop owner stated that the heavy viscosity was necessary to keep the dip mix from running while drying on the mini. 12 hours to dust-dry, 24 hours total curing time.

Now for the kicker -- the rice. One can containing 1/4 quart dip mix (enough for the 2000 pt. Ogre Kingdoms army + some) costs 300 Danish kroner -- roughly 45-50 USD. Not too expensive per army point, but a wee bit too steep for carefree experimenting.

Fanatic is having a blowout sale this weekend, I\'m gonna try and get over there on Saturday with a camera and get some pics of the sample pieces (before and after) of the different stain types.

More later.
 
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orctrader

Guest
My local DIY store, the cheapest water-based walnut stain they have - for my experiment - is satin finish.

OK? Or does it have to be matt?
 
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