what is this dipping technique for gw models?
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Dipping - a POV
Massed produced figures are sometimes dipped this way...or so I\'ve been told.
Basic color blocking like Swordwind said, One or 2 of the major colors in your mini sprayed or hand painted on first...then get a waterbased or oilbased stain - your choice. Minwax makes some pretty good stuff.
Make sure it\'s good and dark like a walnut or ebony. Mix (stir) the stain REAL thoroughly or it\'ll just wash away or clump.
Get a big enough container to dunk your whole mini; don a pair of rubber gloves and get to it. Shake off the excess into a large garbage pail lined with a bag \'cause the stain will get everywhere.
Set your mini(s) on newspaper and go to bed or read a book, take a walk, anything; just do something else for at least 24 hrs. before touching the minis again.
Drybrush highlights with the colors you started with or come up with something a little lighter and you\'re pretty much done.
This process works well for Tyranids and Skeleton armies but I\'ve seen some stunning results with a guard army recently.
The process won\'t earn you any big points with painting purists but it makes the shiny metal and primer of that army you just can\'t seem to finish...get finished and on the play table.
Massed produced figures are sometimes dipped this way...or so I\'ve been told.
Basic color blocking like Swordwind said, One or 2 of the major colors in your mini sprayed or hand painted on first...then get a waterbased or oilbased stain - your choice. Minwax makes some pretty good stuff.
Make sure it\'s good and dark like a walnut or ebony. Mix (stir) the stain REAL thoroughly or it\'ll just wash away or clump.
Get a big enough container to dunk your whole mini; don a pair of rubber gloves and get to it. Shake off the excess into a large garbage pail lined with a bag \'cause the stain will get everywhere.
Set your mini(s) on newspaper and go to bed or read a book, take a walk, anything; just do something else for at least 24 hrs. before touching the minis again.
Drybrush highlights with the colors you started with or come up with something a little lighter and you\'re pretty much done.
This process works well for Tyranids and Skeleton armies but I\'ve seen some stunning results with a guard army recently.
The process won\'t earn you any big points with painting purists but it makes the shiny metal and primer of that army you just can\'t seem to finish...get finished and on the play table.
No Such Agency
New member
That\'s an understatement lol
QuietiManes
New member
I cant find the page now but I know I\'ve seen a dip method article done with a water based product. It shouldnt make any real difference. Most people probably say oil based first just because most of that stuff for the outdoors is oil based. There are probably lots of products that will have adhesion problems for subsequent layers given that there are so many to choose from. Best to go with a brand that\'s been used and suggested by someone else to be safe.
generulpoleaxe
New member
step away from the dipping tin, put the miniature down.
we can talk this through, we are here to help.
dipping is baaaaad, blending is gooood.
do or do not, there is no dipping.
dipping is not the method you are looking for (with a subtle wave of the hand)
yadda yadda yadda and so on.
we can talk this through, we are here to help.
dipping is baaaaad, blending is gooood.
do or do not, there is no dipping.
dipping is not the method you are looking for (with a subtle wave of the hand)
yadda yadda yadda and so on.
This is to answer a question regarding oil-based stains:
why an oil-based stain? Does the stain need a certain viscosity in order for it to work?
Not necessarily but if you want consistent results...then mix well every time.
Like QuietiManes says...\"oil-based\" is the first thing most people think of when you talk about using stain.
I prefer water-based because it doesn\'t stink nearly as much as oil.
Also, is there a problem with acrylic paints adhering to the oil-based stain?
Nope.
I agree with Generulepoleaxe that blending gets you the absolute best results, wins Golden Demons, etc. and for my \"hero minis\", it\'s the way I go.
But if you\'ve got a lot of footsloggers to grind through and only about 2 hrs/night to paint because of other obligations..IMHO I don\'t see any problem with dabbling in the Dark Side of Dipp.
why an oil-based stain? Does the stain need a certain viscosity in order for it to work?
Not necessarily but if you want consistent results...then mix well every time.
Like QuietiManes says...\"oil-based\" is the first thing most people think of when you talk about using stain.
I prefer water-based because it doesn\'t stink nearly as much as oil.
Also, is there a problem with acrylic paints adhering to the oil-based stain?
Nope.
I agree with Generulepoleaxe that blending gets you the absolute best results, wins Golden Demons, etc. and for my \"hero minis\", it\'s the way I go.
But if you\'ve got a lot of footsloggers to grind through and only about 2 hrs/night to paint because of other obligations..IMHO I don\'t see any problem with dabbling in the Dark Side of Dipp.
Dragonsreach
Super Moderator
Originally bt Frakktal
Isn\'t Dipp what was used to kill the toons in \"Who Framed Rodger Rabbit\"?
Silverthorn
New member
I\'ve used this technique very successfully on kroots, nurglings, furies and a nurgle daemon prince.
See result on daemon prince:
http://photobucket.com/albums/a102/smeilleur/?action=view¤t=IMGP2255.jpg
It is not obvious that he was dipped. Hell, even the base was dipped. 5 hours of painting in all.
The technique is simple. Paint basecolours, paint details (eyes and such), add small highlights or drybrush, dip, shake off excess, dry.
Once dipped in a urethane based stain, NO paint will stick to the model.
The only way I found to paint over it is to varnish it with Testor dullcoat sealant. Then you can use acrylic paint over it.
See result on daemon prince:
http://photobucket.com/albums/a102/smeilleur/?action=view¤t=IMGP2255.jpg
It is not obvious that he was dipped. Hell, even the base was dipped. 5 hours of painting in all.
The technique is simple. Paint basecolours, paint details (eyes and such), add small highlights or drybrush, dip, shake off excess, dry.
Once dipped in a urethane based stain, NO paint will stick to the model.
The only way I found to paint over it is to varnish it with Testor dullcoat sealant. Then you can use acrylic paint over it.
Certainly this isn\'t any kind of technique for display models, but on army standard stuff it is great. I used it on a skaven warband I did a year ago, it really does work very well, especially if you follow it up with matt varnish
Like has been said by others, this is no substitute for \'proper\' painting techniques, but for the gamer etc it could be just what they are looking for
THE most important thing is to shake off as much of the stain as possible straight after you pull the model out. I held the model\'s base with pliers so that I could really go for it and shake off lots. As Frakktal said, dark stains like Walnut stain are the ones you want, other ones like pine, oak etc etc are too orangey and will look odd
Have fun
Matt
Like has been said by others, this is no substitute for \'proper\' painting techniques, but for the gamer etc it could be just what they are looking for
THE most important thing is to shake off as much of the stain as possible straight after you pull the model out. I held the model\'s base with pliers so that I could really go for it and shake off lots. As Frakktal said, dark stains like Walnut stain are the ones you want, other ones like pine, oak etc etc are too orangey and will look odd
Have fun
Matt
Tony Manero
New member
i think for tabletop horde armies this technic is quite cool, who cares about the technic employed if the result are good? obviously it can\'t be a substitute for a real painting, but....... it work.... if u don\'t care to haven\'t a GD-winner army... go for it!
QuietiManes
New member
It\'s totally up to you mate. The stain shades and tints the whole model. If you want the skin tinted brown then leave it as is. If you want it something else, paint it something else. However if you use a black primer the skin will just remain black pretty much after the stain. Basically you paint everything in flat colours except what you want to not be tinted and shaded brown by the stain. Things like teeth, armour, weapons, eyes will usually need some touch ups after dipping. Anyway, here\'s a link to how to do the dip thing since I dont think anyone has posted anything yet, be sure to click the page1, 2, 3 at the top too:
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~beattie/dip.html
http://www-personal.umich.edu/~beattie/dip.html
O
orctrader
Guest
Read about this before but the \"dip\" product mentioned seems to be US. (Lots of wargamers seem to use it - on all scales.)
What do the UK boys use?
I have a particular project in mind where the dip method might work. I was going to buy a dark wood water-based - as I want to do highlights after - stain. The cheapest I can find. But if someone in the UK has used a specific product with success I\'d be pleased to know.
What do the UK boys use?
I have a particular project in mind where the dip method might work. I was going to buy a dark wood water-based - as I want to do highlights after - stain. The cheapest I can find. But if someone in the UK has used a specific product with success I\'d be pleased to know.
