freakinacage
New member
geat builds and love the tarnished effects. could do with some more splashes of colour though imo
Triplo Concentrato Stompa Action!
- Thread starter Lemmingspawn
- Start date
Lemmingspawn
New member
Sorry dude - I missed your question.... :redface:
All of the flat curved surfaces are rolls out of cling wrap dispensers. I chose ones that had a thicker roll rather than thin - different brands use cheaper rolls. Some of the surfaces are also plastic pipe cut to size - it all depends on what I had on hand. I have to use things that do not require power tools to cut up as I work in an environment not conducive to that kind of noise...
Lemmingspawn
New member
The final installment in the 3 STOMPA MEGA MEK WIELDING RIVET MANIA STEEL BENDING FEST!!!!! Here\'s the final stompa, built, painted and sealed - ready to go!!! It\'s been a fun trip but it is SOOOO FRIKKIN NICE not spending 4 months building stuff any more! Since stopping building these I have built 2 landraiders, 3 dreadnoughts, 1 razorback/rhino and fixed up numerous other modelling projects.
Wow it feels good to be able to speed through something again!
Anyway - enough rambling from me here are the pics.
If someone would like to buy one - they are for sale...
Wow it feels good to be able to speed through something again!
Anyway - enough rambling from me here are the pics.
If someone would like to buy one - they are for sale...
Lemmingspawn
New member
Here is a breakdown of the techniques that I used to get these ones finished, for all those interested. The models were based with a nice solid undercoat of black. I like to use the dulux flat black spray. It\'s cheap (about $9 a can where I live) and it\'s very good. Much better than White Knights Squirts and definitely much more consistent.
Next I mixed up a colour that is somewhere between bestial brown and dark flesh, with a little more red. I mixed up a pot of this colour because you use the entire pot for one model - just about anyway. I make sure this is quite thin because I don\'t want to obscure any details. I also add a drop or two of dishwasher liquid to allow it to flow easily.
Keep in mind I am a lazy painter and the techniques I use tend to favour that. Earthy dirty muted tones are the easiest for me to reproduce using my technique, as you can see from the majority of the projects I\'ve undertaken.
Anyhoo!
Next I wet brush on a thin mix of tinny tin (equivalent) making sure I don\'t cover the whole model. It\'s important that the red brown still shows because it\'s an excellent rusty metal colour.
Next is a rough blotchy drybrush of thinned boltgun metal (eq.) followed by a very thin edging drybrush of silver of some description.
At this stage I have completed the undercoat...yep that\'s just the undercoat
After that I fill in all the details such as panelling, skin tones, cloth and clothing areas, belts, buckles and any other broad details. I don\'t do any lenses, eyes, edging or anything else like that. This is basically basing the main areas ready for weathering.
After the model is dry, it\'s time to start with the preliminary weathering work. This is done with a huge batch colour I still have some left of. I can\'t explain the colours I used, just how it looks. It\'s a dirty dusty brown, sort of caramel in colour that I mixed up using cheap folk art paints. The mix is always different but it always ends up about the same colour. I also have a mix in the same proportions - probably thinner - of a cheap acrylic black. I have so much mixed up because I also use it as a dip on smaller models. Convenience helps me stay focussed
The mix of these paints is roughly about 30:1 water to paint, with a dollop of detergent to break the surface tension of the liquid. You need to be careful with this mix, and keep changing brushes while you apply it because it tends to foam up if you apply it too vigorously. I basically applied this mix over the entire model and let each layer dry. Because I started with such an excellent rusty metal undercoat I only did one layer of each of these two colours and used a fan to speed up the drying process.
Now I go over the model and start to fill in the details.
For the orks, I rehighlighted the green skin with goblin green, then mixed up the highlights using dead flesh, until I am left with pure dead flesh in the tiniest of highlights. Then I give it the Thraka Green wash. DAMN these GW washes are THE BOMB! GW are doing a lot of good stuff lately, I remember 2 years ago I could hardly say anything good about GW. Now they have DEFINITELY gotten their stuff together. That\'s my 2 cents anyway
Then I go over and do whatever other details or highlighting I want to do, tone panels, improve rust spots, paint chips - whatever.
For the corrosion on the copper areas, I start with the same colour as all the other metals, and then washed these ones with Leviathan Purple, the blue wash and the ever popular Devlan Mud. I also used the Gryphon Sepia as well. Not everywhere but all these colours are done discriminately as I made sure the effect I was aiming for was realised.
The copper oxidisation was started with Thraka green and a thin wash of Goblin Green, followed by Hawk Turquoise, Jade Green, Ice Blue and then white. Once they dried I used Devlan mud (thin) to tone it down and then re-energize the whites to improve the effect of the water stains. If there were any weird stains or lines I went back over that with a wash of darker colour to help soften the lines.
Finally, I went over the entire model with thin washes of a bright (almost fluro) orange, I let it pool in some places to give it a cool effect.
And that\'s pretty much it - in the short version
And here is the Votey linky: http://www.coolminiornot.com/217330
Next I mixed up a colour that is somewhere between bestial brown and dark flesh, with a little more red. I mixed up a pot of this colour because you use the entire pot for one model - just about anyway. I make sure this is quite thin because I don\'t want to obscure any details. I also add a drop or two of dishwasher liquid to allow it to flow easily.
Keep in mind I am a lazy painter and the techniques I use tend to favour that. Earthy dirty muted tones are the easiest for me to reproduce using my technique, as you can see from the majority of the projects I\'ve undertaken.
Anyhoo!
Next I wet brush on a thin mix of tinny tin (equivalent) making sure I don\'t cover the whole model. It\'s important that the red brown still shows because it\'s an excellent rusty metal colour.
Next is a rough blotchy drybrush of thinned boltgun metal (eq.) followed by a very thin edging drybrush of silver of some description.
At this stage I have completed the undercoat...yep that\'s just the undercoat
After that I fill in all the details such as panelling, skin tones, cloth and clothing areas, belts, buckles and any other broad details. I don\'t do any lenses, eyes, edging or anything else like that. This is basically basing the main areas ready for weathering.
After the model is dry, it\'s time to start with the preliminary weathering work. This is done with a huge batch colour I still have some left of. I can\'t explain the colours I used, just how it looks. It\'s a dirty dusty brown, sort of caramel in colour that I mixed up using cheap folk art paints. The mix is always different but it always ends up about the same colour. I also have a mix in the same proportions - probably thinner - of a cheap acrylic black. I have so much mixed up because I also use it as a dip on smaller models. Convenience helps me stay focussed
The mix of these paints is roughly about 30:1 water to paint, with a dollop of detergent to break the surface tension of the liquid. You need to be careful with this mix, and keep changing brushes while you apply it because it tends to foam up if you apply it too vigorously. I basically applied this mix over the entire model and let each layer dry. Because I started with such an excellent rusty metal undercoat I only did one layer of each of these two colours and used a fan to speed up the drying process.
Now I go over the model and start to fill in the details.
For the orks, I rehighlighted the green skin with goblin green, then mixed up the highlights using dead flesh, until I am left with pure dead flesh in the tiniest of highlights. Then I give it the Thraka Green wash. DAMN these GW washes are THE BOMB! GW are doing a lot of good stuff lately, I remember 2 years ago I could hardly say anything good about GW. Now they have DEFINITELY gotten their stuff together. That\'s my 2 cents anyway
Then I go over and do whatever other details or highlighting I want to do, tone panels, improve rust spots, paint chips - whatever.
For the corrosion on the copper areas, I start with the same colour as all the other metals, and then washed these ones with Leviathan Purple, the blue wash and the ever popular Devlan Mud. I also used the Gryphon Sepia as well. Not everywhere but all these colours are done discriminately as I made sure the effect I was aiming for was realised.
The copper oxidisation was started with Thraka green and a thin wash of Goblin Green, followed by Hawk Turquoise, Jade Green, Ice Blue and then white. Once they dried I used Devlan mud (thin) to tone it down and then re-energize the whites to improve the effect of the water stains. If there were any weird stains or lines I went back over that with a wash of darker colour to help soften the lines.
Finally, I went over the entire model with thin washes of a bright (almost fluro) orange, I let it pool in some places to give it a cool effect.
And that\'s pretty much it - in the short version
And here is the Votey linky: http://www.coolminiornot.com/217330
Lemmingspawn
New member
If anyone is interested - the first of the 2 stompas is being sold on our \"favourite\" auction site. The item number is 320356402914.
Lemmingspawn
New member
I\'ve got the next of the three for sale - it\'s on our favourite auction site - auction number 320359686098
Lemmingspawn
New member
Whoever is interested - the final stompa is now for sale. I wasn\'t going to sell it originally but here we go - it\'s time to move on. Up for sale on eBay item number 320414227577
