porkchop806
New member
ive always use citidel paints but im hankering to try something new could you all give your idead for an awsomely badass panit system 
something besides citidel
- Thread starter porkchop806
- Start date
porkchop806
New member
well nothing i just wanna fly with diffrent wings to trun a phrase
i\'m a big fan of P3, from Privateer Press...
i always used GW paints for over 20 years, now it\'s 80-100% P3...
i\'ve heard good things about Reaper and Vallejo, but i don\'t need 4 different paint sets...
it is good to pick and choose from different lines though, as most acrylics mix well with each other regardless of brand...
cheers
jah
i always used GW paints for over 20 years, now it\'s 80-100% P3...
i\'ve heard good things about Reaper and Vallejo, but i don\'t need 4 different paint sets...
it is good to pick and choose from different lines though, as most acrylics mix well with each other regardless of brand...
cheers
jah
porkchop806
New member
thanx ill try any thing but testors had a bad run when i bought the 3rd editition boxed ste im just glad i tried it on the dark eldar first testors good on cars not soliders
Personal opinion.
I find it contradictory that you say the paints are \"pre-watery\" and that you can use much less of it than if you use GW paints. ??? \"Pre-watery\", if I understand the term correctly, would suggest the paint contains more water. Wouldn\'t it be preferable if the paint was thicker, so you get more actual pigment, and then water it down yourself?
Originally posted by porkchop806
well nothing i just wanna fly with diffrent wings to trun a phrase
That\'s a plan I can roll with!
There may not be a bad choice. Maybe availability is a big factor? If not, then play with everything you can find. Try a few colours from the different ranges.
You may find you\'re happy with all the top ranges and so pick and choose favourite colours.
S
Shadzar
Guest
More to the fact, they flow better but still contain enough pigment to coat with. You use less because you don\'t have to water-down and break down the paint in doing so versus GW paints.
I don\'t know what else to really call it in technical terms, so pre-watery...you don\'t have to thin them down like GW paints.
Watering down GW paint can lead to a mess of unusable paint that never dries without help from a hair-dryer, so having something already \"wetter\" means better to me. No need to thin, flows better, dries quicker, blends better.
I liked Reaper paint when painting my Toadman at a Paint\'n\'Take, and if I didn\'t have 400 bottles of GW would switch to Reaper, but don\'t want to waste the paint.
Also the Reaper bottles don\'t spill as they are droppers, and you can get less paint waste from them but only taking out what you need.
Maybe this explains it better. ???
I.e. you pay for water.
I prefer thicker paints myself. Like Vallejo Model Colors. They are very rich in pigment and can be thinned quite heavily. The thick consistency of the paint means you are free to chose your own, prefered consistency. Sometimes, you might want slightly thick paint, and with a pre-thinned paint you can\'t get that. Plus, you pay for paint, not water.
airhead
Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
I\'m a big fan of dropper bottles - to the point that I put my GW paints in them.
Reapers are great in that they come in triads of shadow, base and highlight and they have the best binder in them I\'ve found. (Personal opinion from cleaning lots of ceramic tile pallets.)
Vellajo Game Color (VGC) are almost color for color matches of your GW paints, come in dropper bottles and are very pigment heavy.
Vellajo Model Color (VMC) comes in a huge range of mostly historical colors (U.S. Olive Drab, British Gray, etc.), also come in dropper bottles, but I find them lacking in binder. Easily cured by using airbrush media in your reducer.
Craft paints (Apple Barrel, etc.) can be used. Reducing them requires practice as they are fairly heavy to start with. I\'ve had best luck with them in terrains.
Tube (artists) acrylics can also be used. Very little is required and your reducer formula is key.
***
Unless you are rich, I would not go out and buy full sets of each. Paint with a few colors of each and see if you like them. Keep in mind that one brands reds may be better than the rest while a different brands greens suits you better, along with a third brand for blues, etc. You may end up cherry picking what suits you best.
Reapers are great in that they come in triads of shadow, base and highlight and they have the best binder in them I\'ve found. (Personal opinion from cleaning lots of ceramic tile pallets.)
Vellajo Game Color (VGC) are almost color for color matches of your GW paints, come in dropper bottles and are very pigment heavy.
Vellajo Model Color (VMC) comes in a huge range of mostly historical colors (U.S. Olive Drab, British Gray, etc.), also come in dropper bottles, but I find them lacking in binder. Easily cured by using airbrush media in your reducer.
Craft paints (Apple Barrel, etc.) can be used. Reducing them requires practice as they are fairly heavy to start with. I\'ve had best luck with them in terrains.
Tube (artists) acrylics can also be used. Very little is required and your reducer formula is key.
***
Unless you are rich, I would not go out and buy full sets of each. Paint with a few colors of each and see if you like them. Keep in mind that one brands reds may be better than the rest while a different brands greens suits you better, along with a third brand for blues, etc. You may end up cherry picking what suits you best.
laurence
Brushlover
Try \'em all!
My advice would be to get a few paints from each range and see what you like best. I use paints (well I\'m taking a sabbatical right now - It\'s been three or four months) from many different ranges. P3, Reaper Master Series, Reaper Pro Paints, GW, Vallejo Model & Color, Ral Partha and Foundry. I like \'em all and can usually find a way to mix them in to the mini I\'m working on. Personally though, I generally use the GW paints more than the others.
My advice would be to get a few paints from each range and see what you like best. I use paints (well I\'m taking a sabbatical right now - It\'s been three or four months) from many different ranges. P3, Reaper Master Series, Reaper Pro Paints, GW, Vallejo Model & Color, Ral Partha and Foundry. I like \'em all and can usually find a way to mix them in to the mini I\'m working on. Personally though, I generally use the GW paints more than the others.
I\'ve tried a bunch of different brands and I would recomend starting with P3 or Reaper Master Series. FYI i\'ve also used the GW line of paints for years.
Here\'s the \'breakdown\' as I see it.
P3: very similar to GW\'s line, but a little smoother consitency and a more \'earthy\' line of colors. If you are used to working iwth GW\'s line, switching to P3 will be an easy transition.
Reaper Master Series: The triads are nice and comperably priced to the others. Reaper paints are (as hotly discussed) thinner than the GW line. I find this makes them easier to work with for wet blending, feathering, and making color transitions. The other two lines can be thinned, but i find the Reaper line holds up better to heavy thinning. The final HUGE advantage Reaper offers is an extensive range of colors... earthy to vibrant, they have them all.
Anyway, I would recomend starting with a P3 6 pack and a couple Reaper triads... see how you like them, then move on from there. GOOD LUCK!
Here\'s the \'breakdown\' as I see it.
P3: very similar to GW\'s line, but a little smoother consitency and a more \'earthy\' line of colors. If you are used to working iwth GW\'s line, switching to P3 will be an easy transition.
Reaper Master Series: The triads are nice and comperably priced to the others. Reaper paints are (as hotly discussed) thinner than the GW line. I find this makes them easier to work with for wet blending, feathering, and making color transitions. The other two lines can be thinned, but i find the Reaper line holds up better to heavy thinning. The final HUGE advantage Reaper offers is an extensive range of colors... earthy to vibrant, they have them all.
Anyway, I would recomend starting with a P3 6 pack and a couple Reaper triads... see how you like them, then move on from there. GOOD LUCK!
Joek
New member
I think my paint mix at the moment is about 40% GW, 40% VMC and 20% misc (be that P3, Coat D\'arms and some other random stuff).
I don\'t think any is particularly better as a range, but there are certainly certain paints which I now couldn\'t do without that just aren\'t as good in the other brands.
Experiment with a few and see how you go!
I don\'t think any is particularly better as a range, but there are certainly certain paints which I now couldn\'t do without that just aren\'t as good in the other brands.
Experiment with a few and see how you go!
ScottRadom
Shogun of Saskatchewan
I love the color and qualities of Vallejo Model Color.
Also I really like the Vallejo Model Air Metalics, and if you can try a couple I bet you\'d be sold on them.
Also I really like the Vallejo Model Air Metalics, and if you can try a couple I bet you\'d be sold on them.
Infidel Castro
New member
Coat d\'Arms!
Does anyone know if the Coaties might be the same as the Privateer Press ones? I\'m only asking as I thought Mr McVey might be a bit old-skool.
Does anyone know if the Coaties might be the same as the Privateer Press ones? I\'m only asking as I thought Mr McVey might be a bit old-skool.
obviously, some of the P3 tones are unique, but i\'m seem to remember that it\'s the same manufacturer...
i love the old school pots too...
i still use some of the same citadel paints, in the white lid pots, that i bought almost 20 years ago...
all the P3 that i bought in \'06 are still goin\' strong, and i use \'em everyday...
cheers
jah
i love the old school pots too...
i still use some of the same citadel paints, in the white lid pots, that i bought almost 20 years ago...
all the P3 that i bought in \'06 are still goin\' strong, and i use \'em everyday...
cheers
jah
