lionhearts Wip

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Lionheart 86

New member
Cheers guys abit more done this aft still got to go back and really refine the transitions on the leg with the blue knee pad, sorry for the crumby phone pics again I've misplaced the camera lead and I can't believe how much the photo loses vibrancy
more to come over the weekend

cheers rich

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burdonite

burdonite

New member
That is some clean painting going on there dude :D. If you don't mind me asking how many highlight layers do you work through on that Turquoise colour? I'm about to start an Eternal (in Gold though) so I am following your thread very keenly :).
 
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Lionheart 86

New member
burdonite said:
That is some clean painting going on there dude :D. If you don't mind me asking how many highlight layers do you work through on that Turquoise colour? I'm about to start an Eternal (in Gold though) so I am following your thread very keenly :).
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Cheers

on this guy there are 8 stages with more still to come I'll list them below

midtone/basecoat sotek green
highlight sotek/temple guard 50:50
highlight temple guard
hightlight temple guard/barharoth 50:50
shade kantor blue
shade Kantor/black 70:30
shade Kantor/black 50:50
highlight barhatoth

thats roughly the stages I've been though upto now on the armour but when I'm working I'm always going back and forth with glazes to smooth transitions and re highlight up and there will likely be 2/3 more highlights and at least one more shade to come

hope this his helps best advice is keep your paints thin work on one section at a time I look forward to seeing what you do

chees rich
 
burdonite

burdonite

New member
Lionheart 86 said:
Cheers

on this guy there are 8 stages with more still to come I'll list them below

midtone/basecoat sotek green
highlight sotek/temple guard 50:50
highlight temple guard
hightlight temple guard/barharoth 50:50
shade kantor blue
shade Kantor/black 70:30
shade Kantor/black 50:50
highlight barhatoth

thats roughly the stages I've been though upto now on the armour but when I'm working I'm always going back and forth with glazes to smooth transitions and re highlight up and there will likely be 2/3 more highlights and at least one more shade to come

hope this his helps best advice is keep your paints thin work on one section at a time I look forward to seeing what you do

chees rich
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Awesome cheers for the run down Rich. I shall take this advice on board for my Eternal paint job :)
 
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Lionheart 86

New member
burdonite said:
Awesome cheers for the run down Rich. I shall take this advice on board for my Eternal paint job :)
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Which stormcast model are you going for, there are so many examples out there for brilliant nmm gold if you haven't already seen it see if you can get hold of the eavy metal guide for the sanguinor Daz Latham did a few years back it's a great place to start
 
burdonite

burdonite

New member
Its a straight Liberator from the x3 easy build introduction set. I thought it wise to experiment with something like that before moving onto anything too special ;).
Cheers I'll look for that painting guide.

Sorry to sound green but what is the NMM dealio all about? I've read a few guides for NMM and it looks quite complicated compared to stock metallic painting. Is NMM generally viewed as a better looking metallic in Pro painting circles?
 
Sicks

Sicks

New member
burdonite said:
Its a straight Liberator from the x3 easy build introduction set. I thought it wise to experiment with something like that before moving onto anything too special ;).
Cheers I'll look for that painting guide.

Sorry to sound green but what is the NMM dealio all about? I've read a few guides for NMM and it looks quite complicated compared to stock metallic painting. Is NMM generally viewed as a better looking metallic in Pro painting circles?
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NMM and TMM (true metallic metals, aka using metallic paints) come down to personal taste, the techniques are very similar in that you'll still be putting the highlights and shadows in the same place, NMM can come out looking a little cartoony or comic book style but there are also some amazing examples out there that you'd never know weren't metallic paint (a good example is classical art with metal in the picture but there are model painters who excel at it too) both can look amazing but nmm is easier to photograph because the bright lighting necessary for taking a picture reflects off metallic paint making it difficult to get an angle where the picture accurately captures the paint job. I don't think either is particularly easier but with nmm I think you need to be blessed to envision how it should look before you paint because it often looks wrong until it's nearly finished wheras with metallic paints once the base coat is down you can move it around under your light for a real time reference.

You also get a lot more freedom with nmm since it just uses normal paint you aren't relying on there being a metallic paint in the colour you want (there are some tricks though like using ink or tamiya clear to paint in silver then tint it to the colour you want), just my thoughts on the subject but I should say I'm not that great at metals in either case
 
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Lionheart 86

New member
burdonite said:
Its a straight Liberator from the x3 easy build introduction set. I thought it wise to experiment with something like that before moving onto anything too special ;).
Cheers I'll look for that painting guide.

Sorry to sound green but what is the NMM dealio all about? I've read a few guides for NMM and it looks quite complicated compared to stock metallic painting. Is NMM generally viewed as a better looking metallic in Pro painting circles?
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As sick said it's entirely personal preference I use both techniques but if I'm doing a display piece I nearly always go with nmm just because I prefer How it looks and it slows so much freedom in how you approach it from ultra realistic to highly stilised.

Your right it's very time consuming and quite complicated when you first start, what I found helpfull when I was starting out it id undercoat the model with black spray then hit it with a torch with a focused beam from different angles and photo it to see how the light bounces off the model I wasn't trying to copy them directly but they were a very handy reference tool

cheers rich
 
Canny

Canny

New member
Lionheart! thats a good idea I have been wanting to do the torch thing for a while but just got lazy and started painting. The Blues are looking really nice! You may be doing this next - to make it really shine you need to get to white on the highlights too just at the peaks to really make it pop.

Looking nice and smooth too!
 
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Lionheart 86

New member
burdonite said:
ZBrush has always been a 3D package that I've wanted to learn. Those robotic parts look very clean. :)
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It's relatively simple to master the basics I'm completely self taught there are so many different functions to pick up although I found it abit alien at first as I'm a Cad designer by trade and the interface is very different to 3D engineering packages, thanks the bionic arm was the main reason for attempting to copy that model

cheers rich
 
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