Light-up Warphead
- Thread starter jamsessionein
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jamsessionein
New member
Nick: Of course I\'m going to play with him! The batteries will be concealed in the base by the time I\'m done.
I\'m definitely going to pick up some Night Goblin Fanatics for this. If nothing else, I\'ve been wanting to put wrecking balls on my Killa Kans, so if they don\'t work for this project I\'ll at least have an alternate excuse to get \'em.
I have had a LOT of trouble with this miniature today. Firstly, the eyes in the head inexplicably stopped working. I spent a few hours today swapping out LEDs and re-soldering connections and generally messing around until I realized that the metal in the miniature itself was causing a short circuit! I\'ve lit metal models before and never had any trouble like this - I think GW must be using a new metal formula that conducts or something, because the older metals I have definitely do not. Anyway, I wrapped one of the LED leads in electrical tape to avoid any trouble for the time being.
The whole thing isn\'t completely wired together yet because I\'ve got a bit more work to do.
I wasn\'t sure what to do with the staff but I doodled up a couple ideas and this is the one I went with.
There\'s some sort of tau drone bit backing the skull that needs some detailing, too, but I think I like the way the thing looks. It\'s large, but it looks as though he could whack something pretty decently with it if he has to.
I like to picture him having conversations with the skull on his staff.
Anyway, more work to come.
I\'m definitely going to pick up some Night Goblin Fanatics for this. If nothing else, I\'ve been wanting to put wrecking balls on my Killa Kans, so if they don\'t work for this project I\'ll at least have an alternate excuse to get \'em.
I have had a LOT of trouble with this miniature today. Firstly, the eyes in the head inexplicably stopped working. I spent a few hours today swapping out LEDs and re-soldering connections and generally messing around until I realized that the metal in the miniature itself was causing a short circuit! I\'ve lit metal models before and never had any trouble like this - I think GW must be using a new metal formula that conducts or something, because the older metals I have definitely do not. Anyway, I wrapped one of the LED leads in electrical tape to avoid any trouble for the time being.
The whole thing isn\'t completely wired together yet because I\'ve got a bit more work to do.
I wasn\'t sure what to do with the staff but I doodled up a couple ideas and this is the one I went with.
There\'s some sort of tau drone bit backing the skull that needs some detailing, too, but I think I like the way the thing looks. It\'s large, but it looks as though he could whack something pretty decently with it if he has to.
I like to picture him having conversations with the skull on his staff.
Anyway, more work to come.
are the wires going to stay like that on the finished product? at this point i really dont think they fit at all, just kinda seem like they\'re..\"just there\"
maybe you could hollow out the staff with a fine drill bit and thread them through there? i know you said somthing about wires all over the place or somthing, but, i think guitar string would just look better...looks more..sturdy...just my 2cents
maybe you could hollow out the staff with a fine drill bit and thread them through there? i know you said somthing about wires all over the place or somthing, but, i think guitar string would just look better...looks more..sturdy...just my 2cents
jamsessionein
New member
The staff will remain covered in the wires, yes. It\'s an intentional thing and I want it to be very visible because they are part of what helps the weirdboy channel his power around the staff. The wires themselves will be wrapped around the chains and ropes that secure the weirdboy to the grounded goblins.
Been hard at work on the base for this guy today. It\'s been an interesting time so far.
First I stopped by Home Depot to pick up some of their expanded polystrene foam housing insulation. You can get about 10 feet of this stuff for which isn\'t all that bad considering I could probably make an entire board out of it.
I cut a circular cylinder out of the foam that was about the same size as a large 60mm base, then cut out the \'rocky\' parts. A bit of sanding later and I had the general shape of the base that I had illustrated earlier. As before, I\'m trying to make it look like the earth is buckling upward beneath the weirdboy where he is floating.
Housing insulation foam by itself is not a worthy base material. It melts when you spray it, and it is relatively fragile - two things I hate. With that in mind, I took a trip down to my garage and cracked open a can of Bondo, an automotive repair putty. I slopped that stuff on the base after I had mixed it up and with a couple sticks started working it over the foam in an effort to both fully coat it and encase it in the rock-hard stuff. It was messy work - bondo sticks to prety much everything, even the tools you use while you try to work. These were my results:
I needed a decent texture for the top of these supposed \'rocks\' so I mixed up a batch of Apoxie Sculpt - it\'s a gray, two-part epoxy that comes fairly cheap and can be smoothed into a lot of different shapes. I put a thin layer of apoxiesculpt over the tops of these rocks and some of the problem areas on the sides and grabbed a flat bladed sculpting tool and just starting having at it. After haphazardly gouging a couple lines all over the surface in a feeble attempt to give it some sort of rocky texture, I came up with something passable.
I will be the first to admit it\'s not all that phenomal. It\'s also fairly hard to photograph, as some of the pink bondo goop that needs to be removed from the base is blending in and making the edges hard to distinguish. Still, it\'s not bad for a first try, and I\'m really looking to make a surface I can properly pin miniatures into.
My photos are rubbish right now because I\'ve been rearranging a lot of the lights in my room and I don\'t have my tripod right now. Still, you get the idea.
I ordered a box of night gobbo fanatics this afternoon because apparently every store within driving distance has decided they don\'t want to stock any. Until then, I\'ll probably be entertaining myself with a bit of sculpting on the actual model, much as I hate to do it.
jamsessionein
New member
While I work on scrounging up the right parts to make my Big Mek a proper Shokk Attack Gun, I\'ve decided to work on my warphead, Wurrzag. I want to get him done so I can use my new-found will to paint on him, and while the model itself is mostly done being converted, the remainder of the work required lies in his base, where the electronics that power his lights will be stored.
I worked on a base previously?, but I was never really happy with it - bondo over foam made one hell of a mess, and the base it was all mounted on gave me little to no room to work with for hiding things like batteries underneath. With that in mind, I set out to make Wurrzag a new base, atop the lid of an old container.
It\'s basically just thick styrene cut in a circle, then cut with a jeweller\'s saw so I had \'pieces\' that I then roughed up with a knife. Glue them at odd angles, and you have the cracked earth base I was going for, with much sharper and defined edges than the old base had.
Here\'s Wurrzag floatin\' above his base. I\'m going to be trying OSL on this so that it\'s like a bright green lava - waaagh energy erupting from the cracks in the earth caused by the floating warphead.
I\'ll work more on it in a bit.
I worked on a base previously?, but I was never really happy with it - bondo over foam made one hell of a mess, and the base it was all mounted on gave me little to no room to work with for hiding things like batteries underneath. With that in mind, I set out to make Wurrzag a new base, atop the lid of an old container.
It\'s basically just thick styrene cut in a circle, then cut with a jeweller\'s saw so I had \'pieces\' that I then roughed up with a knife. Glue them at odd angles, and you have the cracked earth base I was going for, with much sharper and defined edges than the old base had.
Here\'s Wurrzag floatin\' above his base. I\'m going to be trying OSL on this so that it\'s like a bright green lava - waaagh energy erupting from the cracks in the earth caused by the floating warphead.
I\'ll work more on it in a bit.
jamsessionein
New member
So I managed to obtain the fanatics I needed, and I\'ve been working on propping Wurrzag up in the air.
I\'ve managed to hide one set of the wires - the ones for his eyes - by coiling them around the rope hanging from his back and down into the base. I thought I could do the same with the other set of wires required for his staff\'s LED, but they\'re proving to be a bit tougher to disguise. I thought if I threaded them into the chains the fanatic is holding, they\'d look fine, but they\'re a bit... obvious.
I want the wires to be clearly exposed on the staff, and I\'m fine with them being visible around his wrist area, since a lot of the art shows that Warpheads tend to cover themselves in whatever they can find to help channel the energy. The main issue I\'m having is the transition from wrist to base via the fanatic. The wires are clearly showing, and I\'m afraid that it looks like a bit of a cop-out. I\'m looking for ideas at this point as to what might be done to disguise them a little better.
A few notes:
The main, supporting wire going out of his back will be better disguised. I\'m going to put a big round spherical weight at the end of that rope to hide where it goes through the base, to make it look like they attached a ball-and-chain kind of thing to him for extra restraint.
I probably should have tried winding the arm wires down and around the rope on his back, as well, but at the time I thought I could hide them well enough via the supporting fanatic, and at this point it\'s too late to wind them around it because the underside of the base where those back wires go is plugged shut with glue and the likes.
I think I\'ll have one more fanatic hanging off his other side, but too many will clutter it.
I\'ve managed to hide one set of the wires - the ones for his eyes - by coiling them around the rope hanging from his back and down into the base. I thought I could do the same with the other set of wires required for his staff\'s LED, but they\'re proving to be a bit tougher to disguise. I thought if I threaded them into the chains the fanatic is holding, they\'d look fine, but they\'re a bit... obvious.
I want the wires to be clearly exposed on the staff, and I\'m fine with them being visible around his wrist area, since a lot of the art shows that Warpheads tend to cover themselves in whatever they can find to help channel the energy. The main issue I\'m having is the transition from wrist to base via the fanatic. The wires are clearly showing, and I\'m afraid that it looks like a bit of a cop-out. I\'m looking for ideas at this point as to what might be done to disguise them a little better.
A few notes:
The main, supporting wire going out of his back will be better disguised. I\'m going to put a big round spherical weight at the end of that rope to hide where it goes through the base, to make it look like they attached a ball-and-chain kind of thing to him for extra restraint.
I probably should have tried winding the arm wires down and around the rope on his back, as well, but at the time I thought I could hide them well enough via the supporting fanatic, and at this point it\'s too late to wind them around it because the underside of the base where those back wires go is plugged shut with glue and the likes.
I think I\'ll have one more fanatic hanging off his other side, but too many will clutter it.
Darkmessiah
New member
you could try removing the chain and coil some wire with the LED wires to make it look like the fantatic is holding him down with rope instead of chain.
also u might want to consider rather than having more fanatics actually tie him to the ground? have some metal loops bolted to the floor with the rope feeding through em?
say somethin like
also u might want to consider rather than having more fanatics actually tie him to the ground? have some metal loops bolted to the floor with the rope feeding through em?
say somethin like
jamsessionein
New member
Man, where were those pictures when I was fleshing out the concept?
That aside, I think I\'m liking the way he looks, but there\'s a few things that need refining, tweaking, and cleanup.
The main supporting wire now has a weight at the end of it, and there\'s a second fanatic hauling the warphead back down to earth, as well as a \'ball and chain\' hanging from his waist for a bit of extra weight. The staff-arm wires were redone a bit, wrapped around eachother to hopefully look like rope and just strung along the chain as though there for extra support. The only thing I am having a problem with right now is that visually, the front seems kind\'ve open and empty. I\'m considering maybe getting thin flying bases or some other relatively invisible support, crumbling some cork, and suspending rocks \'floating\' in the air maybe an inch to half an inch off the ground on the base, to make it look like there\'s a whole lot of power going on.
Another thought I\'ve been entertaining is to have that non-staff hand clutching something like a fetish. I have a squig foot I\'ve been saving for a while from when I removed its legs and replaced them with tires... He could have a lucky squig\'s foot charm in the other hand?
Just ideas, anyway. What do you guys think?
That aside, I think I\'m liking the way he looks, but there\'s a few things that need refining, tweaking, and cleanup.
The main supporting wire now has a weight at the end of it, and there\'s a second fanatic hauling the warphead back down to earth, as well as a \'ball and chain\' hanging from his waist for a bit of extra weight. The staff-arm wires were redone a bit, wrapped around eachother to hopefully look like rope and just strung along the chain as though there for extra support. The only thing I am having a problem with right now is that visually, the front seems kind\'ve open and empty. I\'m considering maybe getting thin flying bases or some other relatively invisible support, crumbling some cork, and suspending rocks \'floating\' in the air maybe an inch to half an inch off the ground on the base, to make it look like there\'s a whole lot of power going on.
Another thought I\'ve been entertaining is to have that non-staff hand clutching something like a fetish. I have a squig foot I\'ve been saving for a while from when I removed its legs and replaced them with tires... He could have a lucky squig\'s foot charm in the other hand?
Just ideas, anyway. What do you guys think?
Snugglepuss
New member
Just a thought as you seem to keep saying the wires on his staff and the goblin are unsightly, when painting it paint them bright green to look like the waaaagh energy is arcing from the staff and through the goblin to ground, will prolly look a bit better than painting it brown and calling it rope.
jamsessionein
New member
Thinking to myself that his base was a bit too tall, I grabbed my dremel and a cutting wheel and took a stab at carving it down to be slightly less thick. In doing so, however, I realized that I had made a bit of a mistake! I have coin-cell batteries which are basically the same dimensions as a quarter, and battery holders that fit them that I intended on concealing on the underside of the base. Unfortunately, I had cut too much of the base\'s height down to adequately fit the entire battery holder.
After a bit of swearing and contemplation, I hacked the battery cell holder itself apart and took the metal contacts out, resolving to build the battery enclosure into the underside of the base.
An hour later, I have this ugly little gem to show for my efforts:
Like all of my electronics work, it\'s pretty terrifyingly ugly, but damn if it doesn\'t still work. The gray stuff is a two-part epoxy called \'mighty putty\', which can be obtained here. I would seriously suggest that anyone who does converting on a large scale grab some of that stuff. It mixes up easily, dries in under five minutes, and creates rock-hard holds. I used some of it on my old Stompa project as a structural support, and I have no doubt in it\'s strength. In this particular instance, I used it to hold the contacts stable on the underside of the base and to stick some of the extra wire down. There\'s a tiny switch stuck to the underside that you\'ll be able to see, as well, anchored by the putty. I put the switch on the underside for one simple reason: back when I did my old Guntrukk project, in the days of yore, I implemented the switch that turned the lights on and off on the exterior of the model, hidden inside a \'rocket\'. The problem this led to was that every time I tried to transport it, the switch would get toggled, and subsequently run the batteries and LEDs down to nothing. What this suggested to me was that any time you work with electronics on a model, you want the switch to be recessed or tucked away somewhere that it can\'t accidentally be switched, hence its placement underneath the base.
When all the wiring is said and done... it lives!
The staff is noticeably dimmer than the eye LEDs largely because it\'s a different type of LED - the one lighting the eyes is a Surface Mount LED, which is a tiny square that projects the light in a decent arc, whereas the one that I was able to fit into the staff was your standard rounded-top LED, which projects light forward in a cone. The cone of light in the staff, however, is pointing upwards, meaning the light coming out of the eyes and mouth is mostly reflected off of other surfaces inside that skull first.
Despite that, it\'s only a tiny detail, and I think it looks fine. Certainly too late to change it now.
Anyway, the model\'s roughly 85-90% done, and needs a couple extra tweaks and additions. I\'m very happy with how he looks currently, though - I got over the fact that the staff wiring was fairly obvious going down the chain by convincing myself that I\'ll make it look like rope come paint-time. I don\'t want to try painting it like Waaagh energy or anything because, as I\'ve said before, the times I\'ve seen people try doing stuff like that it has looked fairly lackluster. For example:
While it\'s a nice effect, it doesn\'t quite do anything for me.
After a bit of swearing and contemplation, I hacked the battery cell holder itself apart and took the metal contacts out, resolving to build the battery enclosure into the underside of the base.
An hour later, I have this ugly little gem to show for my efforts:
Like all of my electronics work, it\'s pretty terrifyingly ugly, but damn if it doesn\'t still work.
The gray stuff is a two-part epoxy called \'mighty putty\', which can be obtained here. I would seriously suggest that anyone who does converting on a large scale grab some of that stuff. It mixes up easily, dries in under five minutes, and creates rock-hard holds. I used some of it on my old Stompa project as a structural support, and I have no doubt in it\'s strength. In this particular instance, I used it to hold the contacts stable on the underside of the base and to stick some of the extra wire down. There\'s a tiny switch stuck to the underside that you\'ll be able to see, as well, anchored by the putty. I put the switch on the underside for one simple reason: back when I did my old Guntrukk project, in the days of yore, I implemented the switch that turned the lights on and off on the exterior of the model, hidden inside a \'rocket\'. The problem this led to was that every time I tried to transport it, the switch would get toggled, and subsequently run the batteries and LEDs down to nothing. What this suggested to me was that any time you work with electronics on a model, you want the switch to be recessed or tucked away somewhere that it can\'t accidentally be switched, hence its placement underneath the base. When all the wiring is said and done... it lives!
The staff is noticeably dimmer than the eye LEDs largely because it\'s a different type of LED - the one lighting the eyes is a Surface Mount LED, which is a tiny square that projects the light in a decent arc, whereas the one that I was able to fit into the staff was your standard rounded-top LED, which projects light forward in a cone. The cone of light in the staff, however, is pointing upwards, meaning the light coming out of the eyes and mouth is mostly reflected off of other surfaces inside that skull first.
Despite that, it\'s only a tiny detail, and I think it looks fine. Certainly too late to change it now.
Anyway, the model\'s roughly 85-90% done, and needs a couple extra tweaks and additions. I\'m very happy with how he looks currently, though - I got over the fact that the staff wiring was fairly obvious going down the chain by convincing myself that I\'ll make it look like rope come paint-time. I don\'t want to try painting it like Waaagh energy or anything because, as I\'ve said before, the times I\'ve seen people try doing stuff like that it has looked fairly lackluster. For example:
While it\'s a nice effect, it doesn\'t quite do anything for me.
jamsessionein
New member
So Wurrzag is, as far as I can see, done.
I went ahead and added two chains coming out of his back, from the big coil the stock weirdboys all come with. I left them both dangling in the air. One of them has a charred grot hand and forearm hanging from it, still gripping tight onto the chain. I sculpted the extra forearm with a bone sticking out of it just so I can make sure it\'s obviously intended to be a missing limb.
The other shorter chain has a bell I salvaged off of the original warphead staff\'s chain.
They\'re small details, and thus sort\'ve hard to make out in the photos, but there you go.
I think it\'s time to prime and paint.
Now, there\'s just one thing I need help with from you guys. I want the base to glow, but that\'s obviously not going to happen via the use of LEDs, so I\'ve decided upon trying to paint OSL with this to some tiny degree. I want to paint a bright green light glowing out from the depths of the cracks in the base, and maybe include some light green ambiance on the grots and Wurrzag\'s lower half. Thing is, I really have no idea how to do this, so I would appreciate help! I\'ve seen a couple tutorials for OSL previously, but I\'m not so sure I know what I\'m doing.
I\'m more concerned about the order things have to be painted in than anything. For example, I\'m priming the piece white. After that, should the first thing I work on be the bright green in the recesses, or should I paint the whole thing up first and do OSL afterwards? Can you achieve an OSL effect with bright green by just making thin washes of something like Scorpion Green and repeatedly applying it to a particular area? Give me a hand here.
I went ahead and added two chains coming out of his back, from the big coil the stock weirdboys all come with. I left them both dangling in the air. One of them has a charred grot hand and forearm hanging from it, still gripping tight onto the chain. I sculpted the extra forearm with a bone sticking out of it just so I can make sure it\'s obviously intended to be a missing limb.
The other shorter chain has a bell I salvaged off of the original warphead staff\'s chain.
They\'re small details, and thus sort\'ve hard to make out in the photos, but there you go.
I think it\'s time to prime and paint.
Now, there\'s just one thing I need help with from you guys. I want the base to glow, but that\'s obviously not going to happen via the use of LEDs, so I\'ve decided upon trying to paint OSL with this to some tiny degree. I want to paint a bright green light glowing out from the depths of the cracks in the base, and maybe include some light green ambiance on the grots and Wurrzag\'s lower half. Thing is, I really have no idea how to do this, so I would appreciate help! I\'ve seen a couple tutorials for OSL previously, but I\'m not so sure I know what I\'m doing.
I\'m more concerned about the order things have to be painted in than anything. For example, I\'m priming the piece white. After that, should the first thing I work on be the bright green in the recesses, or should I paint the whole thing up first and do OSL afterwards? Can you achieve an OSL effect with bright green by just making thin washes of something like Scorpion Green and repeatedly applying it to a particular area? Give me a hand here.
jamsessionein
New member
I\'ve been painting Wurrzag, though slowly, because I\'ve also been playing the greenskin campaign in DoW: Soulstorm. There\'s a lot still to do, but we\'re getting there.
I\'m mostly trying to get the basics on him, but it\'s a pain in the rear because there\'s so many nooks and crannies that I have to get at! I would have loved to be able to paint him in separate pieces, but I guess I\'ll deal with \'em as best I can.
Wurrzag himself is maybe 1/3 done. The grots and base haven\'t even been started yet. Ugh!
There\'s a lot still to do, but we\'re getting there.
I\'m mostly trying to get the basics on him, but it\'s a pain in the rear because there\'s so many nooks and crannies that I have to get at! I would have loved to be able to paint him in separate pieces, but I guess I\'ll deal with \'em as best I can.
Wurrzag himself is maybe 1/3 done. The grots and base haven\'t even been started yet. Ugh!
Queenoftheunifrogs
New member
this is looking fantastic so far, cant wait to see it done
jamsessionein
New member
More painting progress on \'em, though truth be told it feels a bit sloppy. I broke down a bit towards the end there, on the spot behind where the ball and chain hang from his waist. I couldn\'t figure out what most of the details in that area were supposed to BE on that original model. They\'re not modelled particularly clearly, largely because on the stock model you have a grot hanging off the weirdboy right at that spot. Eventually I just figured the unknowns would get painted brown so they\'d blend in with his cloak.
He\'s at what I would call a tabletop standard, at least, so I\'m happy with \'em so far.
I have no idea how to paint his staff right now. I was going to do boltgun metal for the staff\'s rod itself and copper for the wires, but I don\'t quite know what to do with the glyphy sides around the skull. The fish\'ead shield drone will probably be pretty stock looking (tau-ish tan), with the addition of some sort of glyph painted onto the smooth inner part.
Right now I\'m thinking the staff\'s lightning bolt parts need to be done up in a red or yellow. Leaning towards red, because I hate painting yellows.
Anyway, I\'d love feedback.
He\'s at what I would call a tabletop standard, at least, so I\'m happy with \'em so far.
I have no idea how to paint his staff right now. I was going to do boltgun metal for the staff\'s rod itself and copper for the wires, but I don\'t quite know what to do with the glyphy sides around the skull. The fish\'ead shield drone will probably be pretty stock looking (tau-ish tan), with the addition of some sort of glyph painted onto the smooth inner part.
Right now I\'m thinking the staff\'s lightning bolt parts need to be done up in a red or yellow. Leaning towards red, because I hate painting yellows.
Anyway, I\'d love feedback.
jamsessionein
New member
Aaand some work on the staff this evening.
Honestly, it\'s... okay. I tried to do black wraps on the staff between the metallic bits, but I don\'t think it came out that well (or clearly!). I figured if I did brown wraps, and then put copper wire overtop of it, the wire would be impossible to make out against the rest of the staff very clearly.
I also couldn\'t pick a color for the lightning bits on either side of the skull, so instead I figured copper made the most sense for them, since it might help conduct Waaagh energy a bit better. The skull is okay, though I\'m still trying to figure out how to do them with the new washes without making them look too dirty. For the purposes of this, the skulls all looking a bit charred on the warphead makes sense, since he does tend to zap-fry enemies, but in future I would like it if they looked a bit neater.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the tau drone on the back of the staff. I wasn\'t quite sure what to do with it, so I went ahead and just picked a random color to detail the rim. I wanted to sort\'ve paint a glyph or something inside the white center, and a lightning bolt made the most sense at the time, but I think it looks kind\'ve weak. (Not to mention off-center!) Still trying to make up my mind if I want to leave it as-is or not, since going over that with white again would be a monumental pain in the ass and I still wouldn\'t know what to put in its place.
Enough talk:
I also got a start on painting the grots\' robes, which I hope to make a very dark grey/black with checker trim on spots.
I\'d like to hear what you guys think. The staff so far has been a bit dissapointing, honestly, but trying to clean it up could do more damage at this point.
Honestly, it\'s... okay. I tried to do black wraps on the staff between the metallic bits, but I don\'t think it came out that well (or clearly!). I figured if I did brown wraps, and then put copper wire overtop of it, the wire would be impossible to make out against the rest of the staff very clearly.
I also couldn\'t pick a color for the lightning bits on either side of the skull, so instead I figured copper made the most sense for them, since it might help conduct Waaagh energy a bit better. The skull is okay, though I\'m still trying to figure out how to do them with the new washes without making them look too dirty. For the purposes of this, the skulls all looking a bit charred on the warphead makes sense, since he does tend to zap-fry enemies, but in future I would like it if they looked a bit neater.
At the opposite end of the spectrum is the tau drone on the back of the staff. I wasn\'t quite sure what to do with it, so I went ahead and just picked a random color to detail the rim. I wanted to sort\'ve paint a glyph or something inside the white center, and a lightning bolt made the most sense at the time, but I think it looks kind\'ve weak. (Not to mention off-center!) Still trying to make up my mind if I want to leave it as-is or not, since going over that with white again would be a monumental pain in the ass and I still wouldn\'t know what to put in its place.
Enough talk:
I also got a start on painting the grots\' robes, which I hope to make a very dark grey/black with checker trim on spots.
I\'d like to hear what you guys think. The staff so far has been a bit dissapointing, honestly, but trying to clean it up could do more damage at this point.
