CPTDanielSan
New member
Thanks gorb. More tonight I think really enjoying myself with it and blasting through this one. Bigger pics promise.
Daniel San's WIP and experiments with techniques.
- Thread starter CPTDanielSan
- Start date
CPTDanielSan
New member
Ok my guy is growing limbs slowly. Done with the gold now, NMM is very thought intensive and mentally draining for a novice as myself. But I'm happy with it, no more gold on this guy his shoulder trims will be black non metallic.
No work done to the black on his right leg yet. Starting to flesh out the rear of the mini will do his backpack next. I have been practicing my marble effect and getting nowhere so will have to re think his base. Any thoughts on the rock colour he can stand on as a contrast to the black armour?
Also I want to paint his power sword a non metallic purple/pink to make it the eye catching poppy part. Do you think that would overpower things?
View attachment 79620
Danielsan.
No work done to the black on his right leg yet. Starting to flesh out the rear of the mini will do his backpack next. I have been practicing my marble effect and getting nowhere so will have to re think his base. Any thoughts on the rock colour he can stand on as a contrast to the black armour?
Also I want to paint his power sword a non metallic purple/pink to make it the eye catching poppy part. Do you think that would overpower things?
View attachment 79620
Danielsan.
Last edited:
CPTDanielSan
New member
Well....painting nmm gold on a power sword hilt is....a new challenge. And that gemstone fought me for an hour. I'm nearly there with the look I want although I want to attempt a subtle lightning effect to really pop in the middle of the blade coming from those two thin beams from the hilt. Any tips would be great.
View attachment 79652
View attachment 79652
CyAniDe
New member
Gold looks pretty good all ready. I would add some bright sparkle lights and some edge highlights especially around the corners to further boost the effect. Either pure white or a bright ivory tone work great for these final touches. The blade needs a bit brighter colors as well for my opinion. At the moment the dark areas are a bit too big for my taste. You could make the magenta/pinkish areas a bit larger and also introduce an even brighter tone for the highlights or add a second highlight area in the middle of the surface to have some more action going around. Also important -> edge highlight on the "spine" of the blade.
For the lightning effect paint thin white lines around the nobs. Then glaze these lines with a thin blue/turquoise tone. Depending on how large you make those you don't need to change the blade a lot since this would break up the large shadow areas. But I'ld probably still boost the highlights.
Powerarmor looks great too btw.
But would also add some sparkle lights on the gold to make it look more reflective.
Keep up the good work! You are on the right path
PS.: Another tip for edge highlights, Try to break up the lines. Means do not paint the whole edge with a consistent line. The edge highlight should be strongest where the lights hit directly and around sharp corners. It adds a lot of definition to the shapes and gives the impression of a hard material. Try to have some "interuptions" in the lines like: __ _______ ___ _ __ ___ ___ ________ _ ___ you just need enough to indicate the shape and the brain will then "automaticly complete" it. Hope you can understand what I mean ^^
For the lightning effect paint thin white lines around the nobs. Then glaze these lines with a thin blue/turquoise tone. Depending on how large you make those you don't need to change the blade a lot since this would break up the large shadow areas. But I'ld probably still boost the highlights.
Powerarmor looks great too btw.
But would also add some sparkle lights on the gold to make it look more reflective.
Keep up the good work! You are on the right path
PS.: Another tip for edge highlights, Try to break up the lines. Means do not paint the whole edge with a consistent line. The edge highlight should be strongest where the lights hit directly and around sharp corners. It adds a lot of definition to the shapes and gives the impression of a hard material. Try to have some "interuptions" in the lines like: __ _______ ___ _ __ ___ ___ ________ _ ___ you just need enough to indicate the shape and the brain will then "automaticly complete" it. Hope you can understand what I mean ^^
Last edited:
CPTDanielSan
New member
Thanks for such a detailed reply Cyanide it really means a lot. I will go in and add more bliks of light to the gold edges for sure. And I agree with you about the Blade too dark, I'll try the lightning if i have the courage.
But as for the edge highlighting I'm not sure what you are meaning because all of the top rated photos ive viewed in the gallery ( which i try to learn from) have smooth sharp edges with no gaps in them, yeah they have gradients to them which I'm trying to do but to have breaks in them seems alien to me and goes against my grain I can't explain it. I'm not even sure I'm articulating what I mean properly but I'll experiment.
Thanks again it means a lot.
Dan.
But as for the edge highlighting I'm not sure what you are meaning because all of the top rated photos ive viewed in the gallery ( which i try to learn from) have smooth sharp edges with no gaps in them, yeah they have gradients to them which I'm trying to do but to have breaks in them seems alien to me and goes against my grain I can't explain it. I'm not even sure I'm articulating what I mean properly but I'll experiment.
Thanks again it means a lot.
Dan.
CyAniDe
New member
Jep it's hard to explain, especially becuase my english is a bit rusty ^^. Looking at reference is already the best you can do.
What I mean is something like that for example: http://www.coolminiornot.com/448667
Watch closely to the rim of her "metal glasses" . 3rd Pic is a nice closeup. You can see that it's not just a single white line that goes around the full edge. It's a line made of dots on the right side, on the left a thin line but with small breaks in there and again dots. Of course it depends on the material you want to depict but also around the skin folds the highlights don't follow the whole edge all the time.
Haven't found the exact spot but Ben Komets also mentions it somewhere in his painting tutorial on Painting Buddha for the Chaos General: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Km1-vU2-pbk&list=PL0_grDypO1doLoA8jydpbh1Bchz_Ug58P&index=2&t=0s
Highly recommended to watch in my opinion. In fact all the videos on this channel are really great and I'm really glad they left the channel on youtube.
BloodASmedium
[img]http://pnp
I not know anything about NMM so I’ll kindly sit this one out. As for the sword I’ll make this easy for us break up the color gradients into 3rds. Top third is the light color the mid third is base color or mid tone and the bottom is the dark color . Obviously the simply reverse it on the other Side. You can blend these as you go or sketch in and then blend them together . Either way i think thirds is what your after.
CPTDanielSan
New member
Thank you so much Cyanide, Ekipage and Bam your comments mean a lot. Iv'e tried with this sword....4 times Iv'e painted it now and I'm done. It is what it is now, I may or may not go with small streaks of lightning, thoughts on that? Also added some sparkles to the darkest edges ( I can remove it if too cartoon like) and more sparkles to the nmm as suggested. Here's a comparison shot. Base coats on the rest of the arm. I'll have to tweak the nmm on the rest of the torso with more glints to match the sword hilt.
View attachment 79693View attachment 79694
Happy Painting.
Dan.
View attachment 79693View attachment 79694
Happy Painting.
Dan.
CyAniDe
New member
Blade looks much better with the edge highlights in place. Also like the sparkles you painted on the blade. For the gold, the lightspot on the right side of the crossguard bothers me a bit. Either tone it done or add much more white to the upper corner where you highlight sits. These "Sparkle - Edge- Dot Thingies ^^" should appear most in the highlight areas not so much in the shadows, if even in the shadows then the highlight areas need a lot more then the shadow areas.
Absolutely okay. It was worth the 4 tries though It's much better how it turned out now.
Also painting NMMs and similar stuff isn't easy. Took me countless tries till it went in the "right" direction and even experienced painters think a lot about where to put highlights and shadows to make it work.
Absolutely okay. It was worth the 4 tries though
It's much better how it turned out now. Also painting NMMs and similar stuff isn't easy. Took me countless tries till it went in the "right" direction and even experienced painters think a lot about where to put highlights and shadows to make it work.
CPTDanielSan
New member
You are completely right about that ivory spot on the crossguard cyanide! I will tone it down some! Thanks again.
Dan.
Dan.
CPTDanielSan
New member
Not a big update but I got my camera in the post today and made a cheap home made lightbox. Then positioned him on his base to get an idea of posing. Need to make sure that rear leg of his stands niceley but I'm happy with the positioning of the slate/steps, want it to look natural.
View attachment 79706View attachment 79707
Edit* Still playing around with camera settings. I dont know whats caused the reflection to blur on his midsection but it DOES NOT look like that irl.
Dan.
View attachment 79706View attachment 79707
Edit* Still playing around with camera settings. I dont know whats caused the reflection to blur on his midsection but it DOES NOT look like that irl.
Dan.
CPTDanielSan
New member
Wow thanks guys, night off from painting tonight so I don't burn out. Watched a movie instead. Yes Ekipage I got the sony afterall at just 20 pounds I still need to play about with macro mode and manual focus a bit....tweak the lighting. Thanks for the compliments on the sword It invigorates me to paint with excitement tomorrow after a night off. Just need to get the rest of him to the same standard as the blade now. Hope you are all well and keeping safe.
Dan.
Dan.
ekipage
New member
Nice that is pretty cheap even though it is an older camera. You won't need the macro mode really for taking photos of you mini. Set it to about the 50mm setting and play with the settings from there. I know there is a link on this site about taking photos, but you can also check the one out on GW's site and there is a pretty good one on Roman Lappat's site: http://massivevoodoo.blogspot.com/2013/09/miniature-photography-part-2-how-do-i.html
CPTDanielSan
New member
Spent a while away from the forum but not the hobby. Looking to create a popping high contrast comic book style yellow for my Imperial fists. Lots of black lining and battle damage with glowing eyes. Trying to replicate this on a small force.
