TrystanGST
New member
This is just my experience, but I actually prefer making my own washes. Diluted black seems smoother than GW's black wash, which can look sooty if not applied carefully.
$150 for paints, is this normal?
- Thread starter Carlin
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kathrynloch
New member
Terminology can vary all over the place but this is how I was taught - not saying it's right or wrong, just the facts. hehe
Washes are pigment diluted with water, inks are pigment and typically mixed with water to make a wash. As Einion said, there can be additives - ah, I remember the days of the gold ole liquid dish soap. And bubbles....bubbles....bubbles. lol! Shoot, I remember the days of going to the art supply store and buying India Ink for washes - all we had was black. No other colors.
Glazes, were paint thinned with water and eventually a glazing medium. But was applied very similar to a wash, it just gave a different effect.
And just a side note about colors. There are some that even though I can easily mix them, certain tints of gray for example, sometimes even if you make notes and measure, it can be difficult to exactly reproduce that color. So those are the ones I typically buy. That way I always have a constant to base my other mixes from.
But back to point. There are various means to get where you're going in painting. One thing is to understand, no matter how good the tutorial, no matter how closely you follow it, no matter how many paints, washes, inks, glazes, brushes and primers you buy. You are going to screw up. You will want to take that mini (and probably several more) and chuck it in the trash as fast as possible so NO ONE ever lays eyes on it.
But that is the best teacher of all. If you always succeeded, you'd never learn. So while those tutorials are great and very helpful, the best way to learn is to put paint to brush and brush to mini. Come what may you're in it for the long haul.
Washes are pigment diluted with water, inks are pigment and typically mixed with water to make a wash. As Einion said, there can be additives - ah, I remember the days of the gold ole liquid dish soap. And bubbles....bubbles....bubbles. lol! Shoot, I remember the days of going to the art supply store and buying India Ink for washes - all we had was black. No other colors.
Glazes, were paint thinned with water and eventually a glazing medium. But was applied very similar to a wash, it just gave a different effect.
And just a side note about colors. There are some that even though I can easily mix them, certain tints of gray for example, sometimes even if you make notes and measure, it can be difficult to exactly reproduce that color. So those are the ones I typically buy. That way I always have a constant to base my other mixes from.
But back to point. There are various means to get where you're going in painting. One thing is to understand, no matter how good the tutorial, no matter how closely you follow it, no matter how many paints, washes, inks, glazes, brushes and primers you buy. You are going to screw up. You will want to take that mini (and probably several more) and chuck it in the trash as fast as possible so NO ONE ever lays eyes on it.
But that is the best teacher of all. If you always succeeded, you'd never learn. So while those tutorials are great and very helpful, the best way to learn is to put paint to brush and brush to mini. Come what may you're in it for the long haul.
TrystanGST
New member
Yep. I do it all the time.
Chern Ann
Only when they're green
Umm should probably add the qualifier, water based paints with water based paints is fine. You'll have iffy luck mixing enamels with enamels, depending on their formulation. Also Tamiya paints will not mix with other acrylic paints due to a different solvent base they use. But that said, Reaper / Vallejo / GW / PP etc all seem to play nice together.
Anyone ever heard of Mr. Color brand (it's Japanese) and the store owner said that I should use Thinner to mix them (not water).
Also, how good is Tamiya Acrylics?
Sad thing I only have Tamiya and Mr. Color in where I live and I have to buy online the Vallejo/Reaper paints. If tamiy/mr. color works then that would save me a lot of time.
Also, how good is Tamiya Acrylics?
Sad thing I only have Tamiya and Mr. Color in where I live and I have to buy online the Vallejo/Reaper paints. If tamiy/mr. color works then that would save me a lot of time.
kathrynloch
New member
I personally love Tamiya paints. I think they are fantastic.
devoncodain
New member
when I started I bought every color of paint gw had back in 2005 before the base color stuff know. When I started to run out of em I started getting P3 paints to replace and I have always wanted to get the whole reaper master series. Then get some vallejo paint so i dont think it is weird to spend that much on paints.
Einion
New member
I don't know that this is a general consensus but lots of comments agree that they're not ideally suited for brush application, at least not for the kind of way we paint. They'd work fine for basic gaming-standard paintwork, but not for techniques that require more finesse.
If the Mr. Color paints are similar in type to the Tamiya then the same would apply.
Einion
devoncodain
New member
I did a little checking on the Mr. Color paints and I read one deal where it says you can thin Mr.Color paints with lacquer thinner but that this paint seems to dry really really fast mid air it said.
This may be interesting though http://codyscoop.com/ht-paint.html hope it helps if not I am sorry.
This may be interesting though http://codyscoop.com/ht-paint.html hope it helps if not I am sorry.
RuneBrush
New member
Have you thought about just painting one bit of a model (i.e. perhaps 4 or 5 different paint/wash colours) just to get into the swing of things? Would keep your costs down as a first off and then you can decide what you want to collect or do. It would also force you to tackle (and thus improve) on getting that bit "just right" before moving onto the next bit.
I've bought a full VGC box and VMC box which I use pretty much none of now, preferring to stick with GW colours (of which I've bought two big boxes over the years) - don't make the same mistake unless you really don't mind spending that money!
Oh also make sure you get a reasonable brush or two - can't emphasise that enough, a decent brush won't make you a decent painter, but it will help
I've bought a full VGC box and VMC box which I use pretty much none of now, preferring to stick with GW colours (of which I've bought two big boxes over the years) - don't make the same mistake unless you really don't mind spending that money!
Oh also make sure you get a reasonable brush or two - can't emphasise that enough, a decent brush won't make you a decent painter, but it will help
Audiva
New member
The first paints I bought I spent $50 on GW and regretted it 3 months down the track... they dried out on me so fast! Then I spent $160 on Reaper Master Series and 18 months/5 minis down the track not only have I opened every single one, I could have used a bunch that I didn't buy! I have a couple of other brands of paints for specific colors that I fell in love with, but I will never regret spending as much as I did on the master series. They've aged well also.
The man who taught me to paint told me that Citadel washes have a slightly acidic nature to them that helps to blend the colors you've painted on the mini, so in this way I think these washes are not just paint and water. Although they do excellent stuff for blending large things like cloaks, I am now finding them a bit ham-fisted and use them sparingly.
The man who taught me to paint told me that Citadel washes have a slightly acidic nature to them that helps to blend the colors you've painted on the mini, so in this way I think these washes are not just paint and water. Although they do excellent stuff for blending large things like cloaks, I am now finding them a bit ham-fisted and use them sparingly.
pitoe
New member
Mr color
About tamiya and mr color (gunze sangyo)... They does not do well only with water. For tamiya you must use its X20A thinner (the A is important, as X20 is for enamels) wich is also good to thin citadel for airbrushing, and for mr color, you guess, mr color thinner.
Mr color are specially well suited to airbrushing, using its thinner. Moreover, I know many GD winners using mr color white or grey airbrushed as a primmer.
About tamiya and mr color (gunze sangyo)... They does not do well only with water. For tamiya you must use its X20A thinner (the A is important, as X20 is for enamels) wich is also good to thin citadel for airbrushing, and for mr color, you guess, mr color thinner.
Mr color are specially well suited to airbrushing, using its thinner. Moreover, I know many GD winners using mr color white or grey airbrushed as a primmer.
pitoe
New member
I don't know if they can be mixed... never tried.
Used in the same miniature: of course. Have a look at lord nurglemorse (figure not mine, but http://www.coolminiornot.com/artist/Morsi here in cmon) here: http://volomir.blogspot.com/2010/07/gd-spain-2010-remarkable-figures-1.html
If I do remmeber, the green armour was some mr color airbrushed. Other colours where citadel and andrea.
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AllTerrainMonkey
New member
If you're having problems with any paint sticking to Tamiya, Audiva, it probably means your primer coat is a bit too thick. If you tend towards getting a pure white candy-coated shell of primer it'll be hella smooth, and paint won't want to stick to it. You can use a light dusting of Dull Cote to give the mini a bit more tooth again, or just reprime with less coverage. I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and Reaper Master Series Paint all the time and have had 0 problems with them together.
Dragonsreach
Super Moderator
Yep going to agree with AllTerrainMonkey here, I've used Tamiya without any problem.If you're having problems with any paint sticking to Tamiya, Audiva, it probably means your primer coat is a bit too thick. If you tend towards getting a pure white candy-coated shell of primer it'll be hella smooth, and paint won't want to stick to it. You can use a light dusting of Dull Cote to give the mini a bit more tooth again, or just reprime with less coverage. I use Tamiya Fine Surface Primer and Reaper Master Series Paint all the time and have had 0 problems with them together.
Granted it is the smoothest primer around but the issue of paints being shiney on top of it, well I've never had that occur to me.
Shineyness from the paint I've found mostly due to the carrier medium not being mixed enough and Vallejo do require a serious bit of shaking to get well mixed.
