SpectralDragon
New member
A little back story to this project first.
When I first started WH40k I wanted to get into an army that nobody else was playing. At the time we were in fourth edition and I wanted to give my army a unique look. I concocted a plan to mix some green paint, ink, ect into a metallic color to give a green metallic look, and it worked nicely. I have been given a lot of compliments for this army by people I play with. I painted without listening to the advice of anyone else, in order to see if I could figure it out on my own (purely for the purposes of fun, mind you.) I am happy to say I learned a few tricks on my own. After a bit I became satisfied with how much I learned on my own and started actively seeking out the advice of my betters (much like I am doing here
)
Years later, I find my painting skills at a much higher level. While I am happy that I proved you can paint crons in an interesting fashion I want to take that to the next highest level. This is my first attempt to paint an entire model in NMM. I have had much success with flat surfaces on the few tanks I have attempted this with. I have read many articles recently to help in my attempt and have decided to go with the Sky-Earth brand of thought for Non-Metal Metallic painting.
View attachment 3639
I took the above picture to figure out where I am going to highlight. Every place you see a shine I plan an putting an off-green white shine. As you can see I am going for a green NMM army, however there are details within that green that I wish to add. (Namely some gold plates to insert some Necron runes.) Currently my problems seem to lie in having chalky effects, however after re-reading several articles I found that my problem was that I was contrasting my blending too high, and not using the base coat to contrast, which will be fixed.
Does anyone know a good way to keep highly watered-down paint in place without it traveling anywhere? another problem I am having is that when I put a watered coat down, I am having it travel on it's own everywhere. Perhaps I am putting it on too thick?
When I put in a plate (say on the leg) would it be advisable to outline it in black? So far I am finding that the only way to best contrast it.
To give you guys an idea of what I am going for, on the above model I plan to shade to a lighter green on the tops and bottoms, with an off-white sheen where you see the light reflecting on the model. I plan to highlight the bottom portions of each rib where it would hit the sun with the same off-white. (You can see some sections by looking at the dull shine on the place I am talking about in the ribcage.)
I am going to make the shoulderpads NMM Bronze with some runes inlaid on the flat surface on the back. The joints I am going to do NMM chrome. On the eyes I hope to do a blue with the blue light reflecting on the outer edges of the eyeballs. The Rod is going to be a clear blue, but I need advice on how to get a smooth coat of clear blue acrylic paint on that rod. (Model Masters Clear Blue is what I am using.)
Will hopefully have progress pics up in a week or so if the camera is willing to cooperate
When I first started WH40k I wanted to get into an army that nobody else was playing. At the time we were in fourth edition and I wanted to give my army a unique look. I concocted a plan to mix some green paint, ink, ect into a metallic color to give a green metallic look, and it worked nicely. I have been given a lot of compliments for this army by people I play with. I painted without listening to the advice of anyone else, in order to see if I could figure it out on my own (purely for the purposes of fun, mind you.) I am happy to say I learned a few tricks on my own. After a bit I became satisfied with how much I learned on my own and started actively seeking out the advice of my betters (much like I am doing here
)Years later, I find my painting skills at a much higher level. While I am happy that I proved you can paint crons in an interesting fashion I want to take that to the next highest level. This is my first attempt to paint an entire model in NMM. I have had much success with flat surfaces on the few tanks I have attempted this with. I have read many articles recently to help in my attempt and have decided to go with the Sky-Earth brand of thought for Non-Metal Metallic painting.
View attachment 3639
I took the above picture to figure out where I am going to highlight. Every place you see a shine I plan an putting an off-green white shine. As you can see I am going for a green NMM army, however there are details within that green that I wish to add. (Namely some gold plates to insert some Necron runes.) Currently my problems seem to lie in having chalky effects, however after re-reading several articles I found that my problem was that I was contrasting my blending too high, and not using the base coat to contrast, which will be fixed.
Does anyone know a good way to keep highly watered-down paint in place without it traveling anywhere? another problem I am having is that when I put a watered coat down, I am having it travel on it's own everywhere. Perhaps I am putting it on too thick?
When I put in a plate (say on the leg) would it be advisable to outline it in black? So far I am finding that the only way to best contrast it.
To give you guys an idea of what I am going for, on the above model I plan to shade to a lighter green on the tops and bottoms, with an off-white sheen where you see the light reflecting on the model. I plan to highlight the bottom portions of each rib where it would hit the sun with the same off-white. (You can see some sections by looking at the dull shine on the place I am talking about in the ribcage.)
I am going to make the shoulderpads NMM Bronze with some runes inlaid on the flat surface on the back. The joints I am going to do NMM chrome. On the eyes I hope to do a blue with the blue light reflecting on the outer edges of the eyeballs. The Rod is going to be a clear blue, but I need advice on how to get a smooth coat of clear blue acrylic paint on that rod. (Model Masters Clear Blue is what I am using.)
Will hopefully have progress pics up in a week or so if the camera is willing to cooperate
