Where to highlight on metallic metals?

[karpouzian]

For swords and the like, where do people typically put their highlights for metallic metals?

The only thing I can think of is the edges (one side shaded, one side highlighted), but want to see what other people think... I should try the source-object lighting I've seen in tutorials by holding a flashlight up, and taking a snapshot, but I want to see what my other options are...

 

[Bloodhowl]

I am assuming you are talking about True Metallic Metal (TMM) and Not Non-Metallic Metal (NMM)? Have a read through Matt Sterbenz tutorial in the sticky thread. He uses washes to accomplish what I think you are looking for. If not exactly what you need, he still covers and details where shadows and highlights will go which will be a good starting point to get you thinking about how to do it on your mini.
Link:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/1744

 

[karpouzian]

Yes, True-metallic metals is a much better phrase than "Metallic-metals" That is what I meant, thank you.

The pictures aren't coming up, but it may just be a problem with my work PC, I'll try again when I get home.

 

[MAXXxxx]

If painting simply for TTQ I add shades towards the bottom of the metallic item, so toward the hilt for a sword.

If I'm trying to paint something better, then I pretty much do it the same way as I'd do NMM. I simply exchange the colors (black --> black , grey --> gun, lightgrey --> silver, white --> white+metallic pigment or something similar) The way shades and highlights are placed are pretty much the same as with NMM.

 

[RuneBrush]

I struggled with where to apply highlights on models for ages, should you highlight underneath something or not? I approach TMM in the same way as an inorganic item (such as armour). The "underneath" gets heavily shaded - not a solid block of colour, and sometimes I go too far and have to reset with the base colour. The "top" gets highlighted with the main highlight colour and a little bit of shading.

The article Matt wrote is fantastic and the Citadel washes are ideal for shading metallics.

If I'm doing a larger model or doing a 'high quality' paint job then I will set up a lamp over the miniature on a table and walk round the table taking photos. Make sure the lamp is the only light source too. I did this on my GD entry and constantly referred to the pictures during my airbrushing of the model. However for a normal model I'm generally OK to just hold the model under my painting lamp and see exactly where the light falls.

One thing that does help make metallics look more realistic is watered down glazes of colour. Gold for example will often receive a light purple glaze and a light green glaze before the highlights are applied. A steel effect benefits from a light blue glaze. I do mean light too, you're after a hint of colour.