So i just got some Royal Purple (810 I think) and went to use it in my Iwata HP-BH. Dropped it in and it was kinda thick. No problem, I thought. I'm going to thin it down with Tamiya acrylic thinner anyway. Well, I only got about 5 good seconds of spraying before the thing completely clogged up. I clean it thoroughly and this time fill an empty 5ml dropper bottle with half paint and half thinner. I stir. I shake. I shake some more. Then I drop some in the air brush and immediately it's sputtering and starts clogging. I gave up for the night after another cleaning and thought id see if any of you fine fellows can offer some advice. I have a feeling I jut have to thin the paint more and be sure there are no uneven, goopy parts. But that was just a guess and the paint actually still looks uneven and particulate even when heavily thinned.
Vallejo Model Colors in Airbrushes - Got burned once. What am I doing wrong?
- Thread starter dnanoodle
- Start date
MAXXxxx
New member
simple solution: use the Vallejo airbrush thinner.
All vallejo paints have a habit of separating and clogging the airbrush when thinned with other thinners (Tamiya X-20A for example) and they don't behave really good when thinned with water only(something the GW paints don't have a problem with).
I think it's because of the binder that's used in the vallejo paints as they are the only ones that have this problem.
GW, P3, Reaper, Coat'd'Arms, GoldenAcrilics, Tamiya, Spectralite(or how it's called) doesn't have this behaviour (I haven't tryed other brands, so no idea about them).
All vallejo paints have a habit of separating and clogging the airbrush when thinned with other thinners (Tamiya X-20A for example) and they don't behave really good when thinned with water only(something the GW paints don't have a problem with).
I think it's because of the binder that's used in the vallejo paints as they are the only ones that have this problem.
GW, P3, Reaper, Coat'd'Arms, GoldenAcrilics, Tamiya, Spectralite(or how it's called) doesn't have this behaviour (I haven't tryed other brands, so no idea about them).
freakinacage
New member
Thin with water... never had any problem with water
QuietiManes
New member
With a .2mm nozzle it's on the small side compared to the pigment size (I'd imagine) so you'll need to thin it out a bit more than you usually might think you'd need to (as others mentioned) and if that isn't enough, pull back on the trigger more (to open it up wider) and you can also try turning up the PSI to push things through. Also, as always, you might need to strain your paint, little pieces of dried or clumped paint you'd never notice by eye alone can clog an airbrush pretty bad (and they're in all paint). You can buy paint strainers (but they're pricey) or use some pantyhose (embarrassing to buy if you're a guy but you only need a 1" square to put over the tip of each bottle you'll be using, so a pair lasts a long time, a few pairs should last almost a lifetime really, so it's not a frequent thing).
me_in_japan
New member
I had some trouble with Vallejo metallics, but if I use the Vallejo thinner its fine. Havent tried that particular purple, though. It may just have fat pigment in it. You could also try the pantyhose thing. I should maybe try that myself, actually, as my airbrush has been a bit cloggy of late...
Einion
New member
Out of curiosity, how much success have you had with the Tamiya product and other VMCs? Because Tamiya acrylics are a different sort to your typical hobby paints (Vallejo, Andrea, Reaper etc.) their thinner has some alcohol in it, which some other paints definitely don't like being mixed with.dnanoodle said:
Regardless of the possible causes in your case, anyone having this problem I'd recommend try two things straight off - thin more and filter the paint if you can. If you do both and it doesn't help then you know the problem is with some other part of the equation.
On top of the above two, I think it's often a good idea to at least try thinning with water (maybe with a touch of dishwashing liquid added) just to check if it works better.
Einion
Wow, thanks for the excellent replies! I think I'll proceed from here by trying the free and cheap options first. :mean: Thinning more, using water and filtering with pantyhose are all cheap, easy options for me. Getting Vallejo Thinner will cost me a pretty penny as I live in the boonies. Assuming the net stores I use have it, that is.
Ill post again this evening with an update for the benefit of anyone with the same question.
Ill post again this evening with an update for the benefit of anyone with the same question.
Yeah X20 or even X20A are no good with 'normal' acrylics. I use a 50/50 mix of magic mix (water + Windex or the UK version which I have 2 bottles of and can't remember the name), water works fine but I like something to break the surface tension. Vallejo thinner also works great. Jo Sonja also does a "magic mix" right out of the bottle, thinned with water with works well.
I have a HP-C btw.
I have a HP-C btw.
I noticed you're in Osaka. I'm in Nagano and they don't have Windex brand window cleaner in my hardware store. Would any blue window cleaning solution work? I think I saw a few different ones but decided against buying one because I was worried it might have unexpected results if I didn't use the right one.
RuneBrush
New member
X-20A is actually isopropyl alcohol but under a brand name and I've never really had success with using it with GW or Vallejo paints. Car screen wash (the pre-mixed blue stuff) works as a good airbrush thinning medium as it contains a small portion of wood alcohol (makes it evaporate more quickly) and small portion of soap (makes it lubricate the airbrush).
You're aiming to thin the paint to the consistency of semi-skimmed milk and I always mix/thin in a little 3.5ml plastic pot and pour into the airbrush.
Wow, thank you so much for the help fellas. I had a great time painting tonight. No headaches at all, really. I started off by binding a square of pantyhose to the top of my Vallejo dropper bottle with a rubber band. Put some in an empty 5ml dropper an added water. Shook and eyed the consistency. Looked something like milk so I got to work and had no problems what so ever. And what's more is that because the paint was thinned properly clean up was a cinch. Even easier than with the Tamiya paint I had enjoyed using before.
I did notice that the water dried slowly. I think I'm going to try some off-brand, blue, window cleaning fluid. I see that some people mix it with water and maybe others don't. Could you share some of your methods regarding this stuff?
I also had a sort of side question of I may. I have some Vallejo gloss and satin varnish I'd like to spray. Is it okay to put that in my air brush? If so, should it be thinned? What with?
I did notice that the water dried slowly. I think I'm going to try some off-brand, blue, window cleaning fluid. I see that some people mix it with water and maybe others don't. Could you share some of your methods regarding this stuff?
I also had a sort of side question of I may. I have some Vallejo gloss and satin varnish I'd like to spray. Is it okay to put that in my air brush? If so, should it be thinned? What with?
airhead
Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
I've never used windex to thin paint.
I have used Golden airbrush medium cut about half with water. This will add a bit of binder back to the mix.
As to the varnish, you can shoot anything you can thin enough to go through the gun.
BUT with varnishes, even water based, you may want a dust mask while you're spraying. In fact, it is not a bad idea most of the time you're shooting paint.
Anything that reduces with solvent, and you'll want to make sure you're using a solvent rated gun (most newer Iwatas use solvent proof seals) and using a resiprator rated for organic vapors.
Clean with what you reduce with (water based paint = water and a dab of liquid soap || solvent based paint = straight solvent). Shoot into a wad of paper towels in a trash can/large coffee can, etc. Do not close up solvent soaked towels - they may spontaneously combust.
QuietiManes
New member
If you get window cleaner, try to get an ammonia free version. Ammonia will create problems with the o-rings, chrome and who knows what else in your airbrush. If you do a search for "home made airbrush reducer" you'll get lots of info. Generally, it's a 1 part window cleaner to 4 parts water (with other additives, 1 part methylated spirits or denatured alcohol <not rubbing alcohol, it creates adhesion problems, apparently, even though lots of people use it>, drop of glycerin or dish soap or an appropriate amount of flow enhancer that breaks surface tension). Assuming you aren't going to run out and get all that, I'd suggest trying a 1 part window cleaner to 3 parts water, which should dry quick.
Again, generally, you'd mix that with some acrylic medium before mixing with the paint, anywhere from %25 to %50 clear acrylic medium. But it's not really needed if you aren't thinning the paint down crazy like.
The only issue with clear paint and varnish is it is hard to see if you missed a spot or have a clump somewhere so clean it well.
Again, generally, you'd mix that with some acrylic medium before mixing with the paint, anywhere from %25 to %50 clear acrylic medium. But it's not really needed if you aren't thinning the paint down crazy like.
The only issue with clear paint and varnish is it is hard to see if you missed a spot or have a clump somewhere so clean it well.
RuneBrush
New member
On the subject of varnishes, I swear by the Daler Rowney Soluable Matt Varnish - 4 parts varnish and 1 part white spirit (the artist stuff as it smells less and is more refined). Comes out a lovely matte. I'm going to try the gloss when I get my hands on it.
As Airhead says though you need to make sure you're fairly well ventilated (possibly with mask) and need to clean that airbrush like a good one afterwards. I actually use Badger Airbrush Cleaner in a can - this stuff is evil (the Cilit Bang of the solvent world) and will easily take off the printing off a cutting mat... I always recommend an Airbrush Cleaning Pot for spraying solvents into as you get no spray back:
View attachment 14729
As Airhead says though you need to make sure you're fairly well ventilated (possibly with mask) and need to clean that airbrush like a good one afterwards. I actually use Badger Airbrush Cleaner in a can - this stuff is evil (the Cilit Bang of the solvent world) and will easily take off the printing off a cutting mat... I always recommend an Airbrush Cleaning Pot for spraying solvents into as you get no spray back:
View attachment 14729
Einion
New member
Duuude, you can get low-odour versions of white spirit in any place like Woodies or B&Q, no need to fork out for it in teeny bottles. The stuff from the DIY centre/hardware store can exactly the same, except for the steep pricetag of course.RuneBrush said:
Just to highlight: a respirator (the right kind), not just a mask. I'm sure ER docs have lost count of the number of times they've seen patients who thought a dust mask protected them from solvent vapours, I've sure seen it enough.RuneBrush said:
Einion
airhead
Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Not only a respirator, but one rated for organic vapors (purple filter here in the U.S.).
Any other filter may stop the atomized solids from getting to your lungs, but the wrong filter won't stop the vapors from getting to your lungs and subsequently to your blood then brain.
Another point. Those filters should be changed out - and much more often than most of us would pay for.
Any other filter may stop the atomized solids from getting to your lungs, but the wrong filter won't stop the vapors from getting to your lungs and subsequently to your blood then brain.
Another point. Those filters should be changed out - and much more often than most of us would pay for.
cleen X
New member
I happen to know that people in states at least, and many other countries I imagine, can get there hands on Isopropanyl alcohol or rubbing alcohol. Most people in the special fx industry, people who do top notch work that look about as real as anything I've ever seen uses water and alcohol. Most hobby acrylics (Vallejo, Reaper etc) will not like alcohol because of there high pigment concentration. Cut it with water first and you avoid the crackly paint you get with only alcohol that will clog and airbush. Also, try out Fw acrylic inks from Daler Rowney, great for airbrushing!
A little shout out about something I found online that, while not miniatures, is really interesting! https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/ There is a lot to learn on there regarding all kinds of cool stuff!
A little shout out about something I found online that, while not miniatures, is really interesting! https://www.stanwinstonschool.com/ There is a lot to learn on there regarding all kinds of cool stuff!
Had another quick question. My HP-BH air brush came with a spray sample sheet of paper in the case. It has an amazingly thin spray pattern. I haven't needed to do anything detailed, but before I start poking at the air pressure etc to figure out how to get such thin lines I thought I'd ask you knowledgable fellows.
