Vallejo glaze medium question
- Thread starter 1972Lt1
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Bloodhowl
New member
YoungWolf7 did a great article on this.
Link: http://youngwolf7.com/?page_id=1448
The ratio will depend on how thin or heavy a glaze you are trying to create. I usually work with a consistency about 1 part paint to 8-10 parts glaze medium with 1-2 parts of water. ( a part for me is one drop from a dropper style bottle) I don't add matte medium as I will usually dullcote the figure once complete, but you can if you want to cut the shine, or need other areas of the figure to remain glossy.
Link: http://youngwolf7.com/?page_id=1448
The ratio will depend on how thin or heavy a glaze you are trying to create. I usually work with a consistency about 1 part paint to 8-10 parts glaze medium with 1-2 parts of water. ( a part for me is one drop from a dropper style bottle) I don't add matte medium as I will usually dullcote the figure once complete, but you can if you want to cut the shine, or need other areas of the figure to remain glossy.
The dilution ratio will depend on how thick the paint you're using to create the glaze is. The idea is that you're trying to thin it until a water-like consistency: it should be like colored water. 1 part paint to 8-10 parts thinner, as recommended by YoungWolf7, is a good start.
If it's a paint based on solid pigment particule (GW, Vallejo, etc.), it's best to use a thinning agent such as Vallejo's, or matte medium, to prevent the paint from separating. P3's supposed to be a liquid pigment formula (??), but, to be fair, I've never tried glazes with them.
A side effect of Vallejo's glaze medium is that it acts as a slight retarder agent.
If it's a paint based on solid pigment particule (GW, Vallejo, etc.), it's best to use a thinning agent such as Vallejo's, or matte medium, to prevent the paint from separating. P3's supposed to be a liquid pigment formula (??), but, to be fair, I've never tried glazes with them.
A side effect of Vallejo's glaze medium is that it acts as a slight retarder agent.
Einion
New member
Well how subtle do you want to go? (This is a "How long is a piece of string?" type of question.)1972Lt1 said:
You can literally add as much as you want with a product like this - 100:1 is no problem if any colour is still visible at that dilution. And nearly as much water as you want too. Just depends on the strength & consistency you're going for.
For future reference you can get similar mediums from most of the makers of artists' acrylics that'll likely cost a lot less per ml.
Einion
Well, in that case you can start by fading oil paints on the metal areas, in order to slightly discolor them and sort of kill the shinyness of the metal particules. You can use whetever colors you fancy but, assuming your base is a silver metal, Ivory Black and Burnt Umber, with the occasional touch of Raw Umber, give some results.
Procedure to follow:
0. Gloss varnish your model
1. Apply tiny dots of oils paints randomly on the surface, making sure that upper areas have more light-colored dots, and lower areas more dark-colored dots.
2. Damp a brush in oil paint thinner (white spirit, turpentine, etc.). Drag it over repeatedly over a surface to wipe out most of the paint dots. Clean you brush in turpentine very repeatedly during this step. You should not wipe all of the paint, but leave a sort of glaze that you alter the color underneath
3. Let dry 24-48 hours
4. Inspect the model: if dots have escaped your attention, repeat the process. If you believe the discoloration is too heavy compared to what you want to achieve, fade the oils a second time.
5. After you like the effect you've achieved, and it's dry for about 48 hours, spray varnish to seal the oil paint layer, and go ahead.
Procedure to follow:
0. Gloss varnish your model
1. Apply tiny dots of oils paints randomly on the surface, making sure that upper areas have more light-colored dots, and lower areas more dark-colored dots.
2. Damp a brush in oil paint thinner (white spirit, turpentine, etc.). Drag it over repeatedly over a surface to wipe out most of the paint dots. Clean you brush in turpentine very repeatedly during this step. You should not wipe all of the paint, but leave a sort of glaze that you alter the color underneath
3. Let dry 24-48 hours
4. Inspect the model: if dots have escaped your attention, repeat the process. If you believe the discoloration is too heavy compared to what you want to achieve, fade the oils a second time.
5. After you like the effect you've achieved, and it's dry for about 48 hours, spray varnish to seal the oil paint layer, and go ahead.
