This is a slight repost,
But its so that peoples posts arent messed with, so please low flame content,
Here goes,
This is a step by step tutorial by a guy who is just starting to paint,
Me
I am doing it because I had a few people message me on the chitin and commenting that it must take a lot of time.
So I did a little chronicle of my painting adventure.
Enjoy,
I am using Vallejo Game Color # 49 Stonewall Grey, and a Flat brush, Size 6, to do a relatively quick drybrush over the primed model.
The reasons I am doing this is so that the recess of the model are black, and so when I go over the model with a bright color, I don’t have to fight for a nice solid color. It also has the effect of a light amount of shading.
2:11start
As you can see the drybrushing job is slightly sloppy, but it doesn’t make that much difference at this point.
People who wished to could even it out, or use 1:1 black and grey for the first layer, then go over it again with the grey.
I am not that patient, nor am I sure if it would make that much difference,
2:16 Drybrushing complete
Start with Scure green
I thinned out the Green 1:1 with the Glaze medium (Vallejo Game Color #69), This was done so that the shades underneath would be more pronounced, Don’t want to waste all that hard work,
The glaze medium works as a moderate drying retardant, as well as drying with a matte finish.
I am using the #6 flat bush again
2:24 done with Scure Green
As you can see the green covered the drybrushing decently, with much lighter tints on the edges, this will help when we start with the lighter green as any areas that may me slightly missed will blend in with less work,
2:25 start with Scorpy Green (Vallejo Game Color #32)
I am using this 1:9 with the Glaze Medium, this is very thin, and needs to be stirred a lot at the start, but stays mixed well. I am using a #1 brush to do slight strokes from almost the innermost of the chitin plate to the outside, giving more strokes to the edge of the chitin,
With this thin of paint I cannot spend a long time since it will stay wet for a little while,
In hindsight I could have used a mix of Scure and Scorpy to layer instead of this process, but I don’t like mixing paints that much, or a 1:6 mixture with the Glaze
2:35 done with scorpy
I know there isn’t a large difference, but with this as a start, you will see one.
I am doing the flesh for 2 reasons, #1. I am still going to try and use the model, and it will give the Scorpy time to dry a little before the next layer,
2:51 start red
I am using a Reaper paint, Aged red brick (Reaper Pro Paint #08048) that I picked up to fill in the areas that I feel should be darker then the normal red, I thinned it to about 2:1 with the glaze, not exactly sure since its not in a dropper bottle.
I am doing this to form the midgrade between the Scar red to come and the black. As well to clean up the drybrushing a little
And I am not counting on the quick drybrushing doing the whole job for me.
3:00 Stop Brick red
I know he looks sloppy and dirty,
3:02 Start Scar red (Vallejo Game Color #12), I thinned this out to 1:1. but I should have done it 1:2, ah well,
3:08 Stop
As you can see it went on a little thicker then I wanted, but then again I am planning on doing some highlights later, Just not today
3:12 Start second layer of green
I am still using the 1:9 mix that I started with, it dryed a bit more then I would have wanted, Low humidity, so I had to thin it a little more, so it was about a 1:7-8
3:14stop, (layer is too wet, )
Just continue with the Scorpy green while giving it a chance to dry, I am still using the #1, and the lines are actually from the side of the brush not the tip,
Keep going until the green is bright enough,
His brother was done with one more layer of the Scorpy in most areas,
(all paint 1:1 with glaze medium, except aged red brick which is 2:1
and Scorpy green 1:9 (very thin) )
Flat brush size #6 (its about .2 inchs wide)
Standard tip size #1
Hope that’s clear enough for everyone and answers any questions.
If there are any more,
Email me,
4eyedtoad@gmail.com
But its so that peoples posts arent messed with, so please low flame content,
Here goes,
This is a step by step tutorial by a guy who is just starting to paint,
Me
I am doing it because I had a few people message me on the chitin and commenting that it must take a lot of time.
So I did a little chronicle of my painting adventure.
Enjoy,
I am using Vallejo Game Color # 49 Stonewall Grey, and a Flat brush, Size 6, to do a relatively quick drybrush over the primed model.
The reasons I am doing this is so that the recess of the model are black, and so when I go over the model with a bright color, I don’t have to fight for a nice solid color. It also has the effect of a light amount of shading.
2:11start
As you can see the drybrushing job is slightly sloppy, but it doesn’t make that much difference at this point.
People who wished to could even it out, or use 1:1 black and grey for the first layer, then go over it again with the grey.
I am not that patient, nor am I sure if it would make that much difference,
2:16 Drybrushing complete
Start with Scure green
I thinned out the Green 1:1 with the Glaze medium (Vallejo Game Color #69), This was done so that the shades underneath would be more pronounced, Don’t want to waste all that hard work,
The glaze medium works as a moderate drying retardant, as well as drying with a matte finish.
I am using the #6 flat bush again
2:24 done with Scure Green
As you can see the green covered the drybrushing decently, with much lighter tints on the edges, this will help when we start with the lighter green as any areas that may me slightly missed will blend in with less work,
2:25 start with Scorpy Green (Vallejo Game Color #32)
I am using this 1:9 with the Glaze Medium, this is very thin, and needs to be stirred a lot at the start, but stays mixed well. I am using a #1 brush to do slight strokes from almost the innermost of the chitin plate to the outside, giving more strokes to the edge of the chitin,
With this thin of paint I cannot spend a long time since it will stay wet for a little while,
In hindsight I could have used a mix of Scure and Scorpy to layer instead of this process, but I don’t like mixing paints that much, or a 1:6 mixture with the Glaze
2:35 done with scorpy
I know there isn’t a large difference, but with this as a start, you will see one.
I am doing the flesh for 2 reasons, #1. I am still going to try and use the model, and it will give the Scorpy time to dry a little before the next layer,
2:51 start red
I am using a Reaper paint, Aged red brick (Reaper Pro Paint #08048) that I picked up to fill in the areas that I feel should be darker then the normal red, I thinned it to about 2:1 with the glaze, not exactly sure since its not in a dropper bottle.
I am doing this to form the midgrade between the Scar red to come and the black. As well to clean up the drybrushing a little
And I am not counting on the quick drybrushing doing the whole job for me.
3:00 Stop Brick red
I know he looks sloppy and dirty,
3:02 Start Scar red (Vallejo Game Color #12), I thinned this out to 1:1. but I should have done it 1:2, ah well,
3:08 Stop
As you can see it went on a little thicker then I wanted, but then again I am planning on doing some highlights later, Just not today
3:12 Start second layer of green
I am still using the 1:9 mix that I started with, it dryed a bit more then I would have wanted, Low humidity, so I had to thin it a little more, so it was about a 1:7-8
3:14stop, (layer is too wet, )
Just continue with the Scorpy green while giving it a chance to dry, I am still using the #1, and the lines are actually from the side of the brush not the tip,
Keep going until the green is bright enough,
His brother was done with one more layer of the Scorpy in most areas,
(all paint 1:1 with glaze medium, except aged red brick which is 2:1
and Scorpy green 1:9 (very thin) )
Flat brush size #6 (its about .2 inchs wide)
Standard tip size #1
Hope that’s clear enough for everyone and answers any questions.
If there are any more,
Email me,
4eyedtoad@gmail.com
