Tide marks on washes

Baz

New member
Okay I managed to ruin my competition mini with a wash that left a horrible tide mark as it dried. I\'ve had this problem when thinning paints too. Would a flow improver help? I\'m using vallejo paints with a glaze medium and that doesnt work well.
 

uberdark

New member
i use regular white glue in place and rarely have problems. then again i also rarely use inks nowadays since i prefer glazes instead.

hope it helps.
 

QuietiManes

New member
A flow improver should help. What you want to do is reduce the surface tension of the water/paint/mixture. So, a drop of liquid dish soap in 2 cups of water, flow improver according to the directions on the bottle or the good old Future Floor Finish, mix that up about %20-30 with your water. You could also be over thinning your paint/ink or not mixing it enough. The subject has been covered a bajillion times, if things don\'t work out, try a search on the forums here for more details and/or ideas.
 

bullfrog

New member
If all else fails......cheat.
Watch it as it dries and just as the wash is about to go off rub the tide marks in a circular motion with an older brush to remove them if they have formed. It will not work if it had driedn totally
 

Baz

New member
I gave up on inks for non metallics a while back. I just use either GW acrylics or vallejo model colour with a drop of glaze medium and a helluva lot of water. About 2 parts paint 1 part glaze medium and 10+ parts water. ie thin enough to need several coats to give the surface even a slight tint.

This works fine on a whole area, like an armour plate when you need the glaze to go right to the edges and pooling the crevices but right now the areas I\'m working on are smaller sections of a lighter coloured section to give certain areas a tint rather than an all over wash, so the problem is the tide mark making a definite \"line\" where the wash stops. This looks awful for adding stubble, bruises, redness etc.

I have the same problem when trying to blend although I think the flow improver might sort this.

The Idea about breaking up the surface tension sounds good, I\'ve used this for basing before but not painting. I\'ll let you know how it goes!
 
Well, aside from the glaze medium (great stuff, btw), I tend to use just heaps of water, thin the hell out ouf the paint, then add a tiny amount (merely a brushtip) of dish soap. No problems so far.
 

squig hunter

New member
It also sounds like you\'re putting way too much on the model, work it up with many thin layers. I\'d advise you to wipe excess wash off on a piece of paper, so you don\'t apply lots at once. There should be little enough on the brush that you paint it on like regular paint and not apply lots of it everywhere;)

SQuig
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Originally posted by uberdark
i use regular white glue in place and rarely have problems.
??? You know this is not the first time you\'ve mentioned using White Glue and to be honest I can\'t understand why.
I spent ages last night (Driving home) trying to figure out why you would use it because no matter how I think about it, it just doesn\'t make sense to me.

White Glue (or Elmers or PVA) is a dense material, adding it to paint is going to increase the material density not thin the paint. Plus you have to consider that in order to get a glazing level you will have to dilute the paint with water or the glue will just become a shiny surface when it dries.
If you are looking to increase the drying time then there are lots of drying retarders which will increase the amount of time that a paint will be workable allowing for more rigerous blending.

I\'d love you to explain what the overall process is as it\'s \"doing my head\" in trying to understand.
 

daemon boy

New member
Originally posted by Dragonsreach
Originally posted by uberdark
i use regular white glue in place and rarely have problems.
??? You know this is not the first time you\'ve mentioned using White Glue and to be honest I can\'t understand why.
I spent ages last night (Driving home) trying to figure out why you would use it because no matter how I think about it, it just doesn\'t make sense to me.

White Glue (or Elmers or PVA) is a dense material, adding it to paint is going to increase the material density not thin the paint. Plus you have to consider that in order to get a glazing level you will have to dilute the paint with water or the glue will just become a shiny surface when it dries.
If you are looking to increase the drying time then there are lots of drying retarders which will increase the amount of time that a paint will be workable allowing for more rigerous blending.

I\'d love you to explain what the overall process is as it\'s \"doing my head\" in trying to understand.
i think he means like a little spot of pva into the watery mix :)- or i could be wrong, i tend not to use inks anymore in favour of glazes!
 

Ritual

New member
Originally posted by daemon boy
i tend not to use inks anymore in favour of glazes!
Inks are a type of paint and glazing is a method. You can use glazing with ink or with regular acrylic paints. So, what I think you mean is you don\'t use ink washes much, but tend to use glazes with ordinary paint. Or?

And, about the original topic, to me it sounds like the major thing is you put too much paint on. I never put any stuff in my paints, except water, when I do washes or glazes and it works fine. You just need to be a bit more careful with how much you put on in one go.
 

Beelzebrush

New member
Originally posted by daemon boy
i think he means like a little spot of pva into the watery mix :)- or i could be wrong, i tend not to use inks anymore in favour of glazes!

aye... it\'s the same as adding a medium to stop the pigment separating from the binder and avoiding a chalky finish. I usually use matt medium or glaze medium... I\'ve never tried pva before.
 
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