Starting with Airbrushing

Llanerion

New member
As the topic suggests, I\'m interested in getting started with airbrushing, and would like some advice on the topic. My aim is to use an airbrush while painting miniatures of a similar scale to GW vehicles, as I can\'t imagine the scale of an airbrush footprint would allow detailing at any smaller scale (correct me if I\'m wrong here?).

Having never used an airbrush before, and not yet owning any related equipment, I wanted to come and ask what I should be looking for in an airbrush? Also bearing in mind a budget of about £200-250 at the top end (is that realistic?).

More specifically, I know dual action airbrushes allow for greater control of the application of paint, and gravity fed ones reduce the size of the paint stock you need to supply the brush with to start (And perhaps allow a wider range of viscosity of paint?). What I don\'t know is what sizes of airbrush I should look for, and how I can go about finding that out? I\'m told that needle size dictates the fineness of line that the brush is capable of, but all that I can find for specific brushes is the nozzle size, which I imagine only dictates the maximum diameter? What size needle should I be looking for for this scale of painting, and how can I find out which airbrushes match this?

Second up is a compressor; what range of psi should I be looking for in this case? What style of compressor? I see references to piston and diaphragm based compressors, oil and non oil lubricated, but do not know the differences between them.

Moisture traps and filtration? How neccesary is this? Is there anything in particular that I should look for?

Paints; at the moment I use citadel paints for all of my work, how much will I suffer trying to get these to work with an airbrush, are there any tricks or media I can use to improve their suitability, or should I look at investing in some more paints from an airbrush friendly range? Which ranges if so?

Masking; I\'m assuming that while airbrushing some scale details, masking off of areas will be required; what would people suggest using?

and lastly fittings, I\'m assuming at the moment that all brushes use a standardized fitting for the hose, but should I be? Pendantic I know, but I\'d rather get these things right first time rather than wait surrounded by shiny but unusable toys while a new set of fittings get posted =P

Lastly (really) is there any more general advice that anyone can offer me? Anything that I might have overlooked or not considered?

Any advice would be appreciated, and thanks to anyone who\'s read this far =p
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
To start with: where are you at in the world? Makes a bit of a difference as to availability of brands. You mentioned your budget in £, so I\'ll assume you are British?

More specifically, I know dual action airbrushes allow for greater control of the application of paint
Correct, the fact that you can move the needle back and forth as you are painting allows you to control the volume of paint going through the gun.

, and gravity fed ones reduce the size of the paint stock you need to supply the brush with to start (And perhaps allow a wider range of viscosity of paint?).
To a certain extent. Top feeds also allow you to use less pressure for the same viscosity of paint. You don\'t have to suck the paint up from out of the pot below.

What I don\'t know is what sizes of airbrush I should look for, and how I can go about finding that out? I\'m told that needle size dictates the fineness of line that the brush is capable of, but all that I can find for specific brushes is the nozzle size, which I imagine only dictates the maximum diameter? What size needle should I be looking for for this scale of painting, and how can I find out which airbrushes match this?

Finer nozzle openings generally have longer tapers on the needles. This means that as the needle is pulled back, the opening size is not affected as much as with a short taper. More control, but less total variation.

***

You say you are wanting to paint GW tanks. Are you wanting to just put down a base coat or are you looking for a gun to do very minute details (wood grain on the shovel handle)? HUGE difference in needs and guns.

Basecoating - almost any single action gun will work for this.

Very minute details - my recommendations are for an Iwata Custom Micron (CM) or a Paashe Turbo AB (or ABL if your a lefty). Both are at the very top end of your budget.

Something in-between - Somewhere between a Aztec and an Iwata HP-B - (I lean toward the HP-B - but it was not my first brush). A Vega Nail-Air might be a good start. Stay with major name brands. The off brands are cheap for a reason.


***

Air:
Clean dry air at a constant adjustable pressure is a must.
A regulator and a moisture trap are not optional equipment.
A basic diaphragm airbrush compressor should to you well. Similar to this Badger model (not auto-cutoff, 40+/- psi max):
New-180-10-Compressor-w.jpg


If you think you might want to do T-shirts or etching or use it for other things around the house (air up tires, nail gun, etc.) consider a smaller home/industrual model. Tank, auto cutoff, 100-200 psi max.

***

Paints:
I\'ve run almost anything you can think of through my guns:
Cake coloring
Laquer (fingernail paints)
Enamel
Acrylics
Airbrushable makeup
Two-stage ureathanes

If you can thin it, you can shoot it.

***

Masking:
Finer guns produce less overspray, requireing less masking.

Coarser guns can be set to fog a mini, providing a quick primer or base coat or clear coat.

For masking, consider several things. Soft masks:
Holding a piece of cardstock or paper over an area you don\'t want painted.
Hold that same mask up just a bit and let the overspray get under there and you can create a soft line.
Hard masks:
Electrical (vinyl) tape. It streatches, it comes off with out taking everything with it.
Blue painter\'s tape (3M - not the cheap stuff) - won\'t peel up your work when you take it up. Tape over your area, use a new sharp exacto and cut out the area you want to paint. Paint. Peel up masking tape.
Frisket - only on large flat areas - not something you are likely to find on models.

***

Fittings:
Brand specific. Order hoses with the gun.
the other end tends to be 1/4 NPT here in the states. This allows you to build fun manifolds with a trip to the home center store.
 

ScottRadom

Shogun of Saskatchewan
Awesome response. Out of curiosity why do you reccomend the Iwata? I use a badger 150, which I know people have told me is not a great performer (but suits my basic needs) and I am curious what the Iwata brand offers over others. Is it just made to a higher standard of quality or does that brand have actual operating differences?
 

squig hunter

New member
So, would you say this was a decent airbrush airhead? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&Item=300262436824&Category=16705null&_trksid=p3907.m29

Squig
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Originally posted by ScottRadom
Awesome response. Out of curiosity why do you reccomend the Iwata? I use a badger 150, which I know people have told me is not a great performer (but suits my basic needs) and I am curious what the Iwata brand offers over others. Is it just made to a higher standard of quality or does that brand have actual operating differences?
I\'ve used Badger, Binks, Paasche, Vega (before they were bought by Badger), Iwata, and a few other off brands.

The Iwatas are like Porsches compaired to the the other brands that range from Yugos (no-name or off-name guns) to basic Fords.
Now my Vegas are like old deuce-and-a-half trucks. They take everything you can throw at them and keep on going. Parts are reasonable and available. They spray anything you can pump through them. New needle & cones (always buy both). are around $10.

My Iwata HP-B puts down the finest smoothest most constistant line of any gun I\'ve shot. But like a good sports car, parts are expensive and necesary. New needle & cone tip are around $50.

Any airbrusher that has not tip crashed (bent the tip of the needle by hitting the model, canvas, helmate, etc.) has not been brushing long.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Squig, the spraymaster line is one I\'ve not used and am really not familiar with it. Therefore, I cannot say.

The price looks good for all you get.

The single action gun looks a LOT like a badger.
The dual action one looks a lot like a cross from a badger and an Iwata, not sure if it is a relable or a new product.

If the compressor holds up as well as my old badger, that alone is worth the price. Plus it comes with a regulator and moisture trap.


A couple of good resouces for US customers:
www.bearair.com
www.dixieart.com

Both have a tutorial/faq section worth a read.
 

squig hunter

New member
Originally posted by airhead
Squig, the spraymaster line is one I\'ve not used and am really not familiar with it. Therefore, I cannot say.

The price looks good for all you get.

The single action gun looks a LOT like a badger.
The dual action one looks a lot like a cross from a badger and an Iwata, not sure if it is a relable or a new product.

If the compressor holds up as well as my old badger, that alone is worth the price. Plus it comes with a regulator and moisture trap.

OK, sounds good then, thanks. Plus, if it turns out to not be so good (I won\'t be using it heavily for a while yet), it\'s not that expensive :)

Squig
 

ScottRadom

Shogun of Saskatchewan
While we\'ve got your attention how do you feel abrout spraying from a compressor-tank vs. straight from the compressor?

I bought a big industrial size \"house of tools\" 4 HP for cheap and it runs to a tank first. I enjoy using it vs the smaller constant run machines, but my experience is very limited. Plus if I ever have to air nail my shingles or run impact tools I\'m set! ....course I will never do those things though.

great responses and I hope you don\'t mind having your brain picked!
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Originally posted by ScottRadom
While we\'ve got your attention how do you feel abrout spraying from a compressor-tank vs. straight from the compressor?
When I was shooting shirts, I had a 5 hp loud compressor in my garage. Ran a pipe with some quick couples on it through the wall into my studio.
The only thing I caution is that I added a second moisture trap and regulator at my manifold on my painting easle. I\'d run about 100 psi into my studio/bedroom, then adjust it at the manifold for what I was shooting. Shirts generally shoot at 40-50 psi with paint about like honey. If you didn\'t blow paint through the shirt onto the backer board, you need to turn up the pressure.

The little constant run compressors are great in that you can use them in an apartment and not worry about the neighbors complaining. But get a secondary air tank and pipe through it. If you come straight off of that little diaphragm compressor, you can sometimes actually see the compressor pulses in your painting. The tank just smooths out the flow - and settles a lot of moisture.

Don\'t over pressure the tank. Bad things happen and people get hurt or worse when tanks let go. I\'ve used the little balls that screw on the end of the badgers, I\'ve also used the spare tire inflator tank:
5_Gallon_Air_Tank.jpg

Add a few fittings and some hose and you now have a nice storage tank.
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by Llanerion
My aim is to use an airbrush while painting miniatures of a similar scale to GW vehicles, as I can\'t imagine the scale of an airbrush footprint would allow detailing at any smaller scale (correct me if I\'m wrong here?).
Not alone no, but that\'s one of the things masking is for if you want to go down that road (see aircraft & armour modelling).

Originally posted by Llanerion
Also bearing in mind a budget of about £200-250 at the top end (is that realistic?).
Just about, but highly dependent on supplier and the airbrush itself - a good but inexpensive one leaves less for the compressor, an expensive one would leave nothing for the compressor.

Originally posted by Llanerion
Masking; I\'m assuming that while airbrushing some scale details, masking off of areas will be required; what would people suggest using?
Tamiya tape and similar. Silly Putty. Blu-Tack. Art masking fluids (often made for watercolourists). Parafilm-M.

Originally posted by Llanerion
and lastly fittings, I\'m assuming at the moment that all brushes use a standardized fitting for the hose, but should I be?
Aztek airbrushes use a non-standard hose ending but are supplied with a converter.

Originally posted by Llanerion
Lastly (really) is there any more general advice that anyone can offer me? Anything that I might have overlooked or not considered?
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Einion
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Enion, you had any luck with masking fluid? I\'ve tried the gray paint on stuff that becomes a rubber layer that you are supposed to be able to peel off. I\'ve had no luck with it. By the time I\'ve got it all off, I\'ve gone through the paint back to bare media (canvas, metal, etc.)
 

ScottRadom

Shogun of Saskatchewan
I\'ve had succes with the \"Mr Masking Film\" from gunze way back in the day. Primarily on plastic model canopies. I picked up the Vallejo masking fluid recently to use on some 15mm captured french StuG\'s but haven\'t got around to it yet. I have heard good things about it though.

I don\'t know that I would hit it at high pressure though...
 

Einion

New member
Originally posted by airhead
Enion, you had any luck with masking fluid?
Yep, for a long time it was really my only masking material for detail and edges since I couldn\'t get any low-tack tapes here and before ordering some Parafilm-M online.

The one I use is W&N\'s Art Masking Fluid which is also a latex liquid, with a strong ammonia odour when liquid.

I did have trouble once with it lifting paint badly (down to primer, not to bare metal if memory serves) but other than that had great success and it doesn\'t lift even light glazes. I\'m using artists\' acrylic most of the time though, which may have a bearing in how well it works for me.

Einion
 
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