Smoothing GS

[Obar]

I\'m working on my first sculpt and was wondering if anyone has any tips for filling in fine lines, small blemishes left in the GS after they sculpt a model? I have tried sanding and that works fine on easily accessible areas but areas of fine detail or in awkward positions are a little hard to do this.

 

[Gilvan Blight]

A bit of sand paper glued to the end of a toothpick. At least I have used that to get to mold lines hard to reach, should work for this. I also use a Dremel with some very fine bits for hard to reach places. An well the usual needle files, in Flat, Oval, Triangular and Round.

 

[Obar]

I have a full set of needle files I use and I have a selection of swizzle sticks (foamcore with various grit sandpaper on either side about 1/8\" thick\") I\'m just concerned that this will leave the finished product very rough as after I used the finest grit paper it leaves everything very velvety. Not sure how this will hold paint.

I have seen Vallejo has some model putty in the small dropper type jars I\'m not sure if this would work to smooth everything out with a light coat?

 

[Einion]

I would recommend trying to avoid blemishes in the first place! Seriously, definitely an area where prevention is better than cure.

But for small divots in the surface that I didn\'t spot (or couldn\'t fix) during sculpting I\'ve often used more GS to fill in, although MagicSculp or another putty of the clay-like variety would also work well.

Einion

 

[OrkyDave]

A top tip I have picked up is to use vaseline instead of water to smooth out your GS. I only really use GS as a gap filler and the odd bit of detail, but this works for me!

 

[Prophet]

Dave is right. Lubricants can be a big help, as can colour shapers. GS doesn\'t take to sanding terribly well. Generally you\'re going to be better off scraping. Take a clean exacto blade and run it sideways across the rough surface.

 

[Obar]

I figured out the vaseline trick and it helped a lot I think a couple of my blemishes are from edges that didnt bond between layers. I was wondering if anyone had used anything like Vallejo plastic putty Here for this type of thing. from the description it seems like it would work.

PLASTIC PUTTY
A modelling paste which dries to a white, totally opaque, stone hard finish. It is used principally for rebuilding or restructuring models and miniatures, for textures and high reliefs. For extra high relief the paste should be applied in layers, allowing each to dry before applying the next. If a more flexible paste is desired, mix with Gel Medium (5/5).
Characteristics: An acrylic paste of high density, containing marble dust.
Application: Straight from the tube, or with a spatula.
Packaging: In 20ml. tubes (boxes of 6) Ref. 70401 and bottles of 17ml. (boxes of 6) Ref. 70400

 

[farseer oliver]

Originally posted by Gilvan Blight
A bit of sand paper glued to the end of a toothpick. At least I have used that to get to mold lines hard to reach, should work for this. I also use a Dremel with some very fine bits for hard to reach places. An well the usual needle files, in Flat, Oval, Triangular and Round.

Is sanding really can smooth the surface? My friend had sculpted the cloak using Procreate and he used sand paper to smooth it. By looking at it, its really smooth. But somehow when I started to paint it, it turned out different. When I used feathering technique, it showed the ugly side of it.