Recipe for Weathertop

Dr Death

New member
Hello there, i\'ve been in possession of one of forgeworld\'s beautiful weathertop models for 3 years now but for fear of ruining it have never actually sat down and painted it. I\'m wondering if any of the more experienced members of this board have a \'fool proof\' recipe of layers that would acheive an effect like the stonework in the film. If anyone does have such a recipe (or even better have actually painted one themselves) i would be much obliged if they could share it.

With regards

Hugh
 

Einion

New member
This is pretty big isn\'t it? Crying out for an airbrush for some of the work; I definitely wouldn\'t want to paint this purely by brush.

Einion
 

matty1001

New member
A good tip I learnt from the Wallace and Gromit modellers, to weather a wall or brick work take some watered down paint and slap it on whereever then use a water spray (like the type you use to spray plants) and spray the paint downwards. It will then flow down and into cracks etc naturally.
 

freakinacage

New member
Originally posted by matty1001
A good tip I learnt from the Wallace and Gromit modellers, to weather a wall or brick work take some watered down paint and slap it on whereever then use a water spray (like the type you use to spray plants) and spray the paint downwards. It will then flow down and into cracks etc naturally.

hmmm interesting....
 

Theomar Pius

New member
I wrote this up a few weeks ago on another forum, hopefully this will help:

First step here is a a total cote of flat black. Except I use satin black, don\'t tell anybody. Because I do so much terrain, I use black paint by the quart, not the pot. It\'s much cheaper. I had mine made up from the mis-tint paint at the hardware store, only cost me $2.
2nd is a heavy drybrush of grey. Again, since I use so much, I mix it up myself. I use cheap acrylics from the craft store, this was mix of black and tapioca.
3rd is just a lighter cote, mixed from the same mix, with a bit more white, to catch highlights.
4th is straight white, only on corners, and the edges of the stone, to bring out highlights. It keeps all of the grey from running together.
5th is a light drybrushing of goblin green from the pot. You have to go light with this step, because it is very easy to overdo. It gives a nice slimy or fungus feel. It\'s not like fresh cut stone, but weathered.
6th, I do a light brushing of a dirty brown around the base. Normally I do this after it is in place on the hardboard, but skipped ahead for this tutorial. This step is to indicate that the building is part of the base around it, it collects dirt, and mud splatter from traffic, instead of simply being stone on a table.
7th and last, I\'ll go to any windows, or anywhere that water would run on the stone, and using my finger, smudge black in one move straight down. I\'ll do this again later on the roof, or on various parts of the building, to break up the color, and indicate mold and wear.

If I\'m doing something elvish, or Gondorian, I\'ll start with a grey base, and work my way up to white, essentially skipping the 4th step. I\'ll still do the others though. You can do it with brownish greys and yellows too for desert style sandstone. Really any combo you want, just build the color up gradually, and don\'t forget about weathering, that\'s what sets it off.

The painting, on such a large surface, actually goes quite quickly. It can take weeks to build a building out of foam, but just a couple of hours for paint. As fast as it dries is as fast as you can go. I\'ll commonly do step right after step, because when I get back to the side I started on, the paint is already dry.

1paintingstoneza7.jpg
 

arogers907

New member
Words from the master. =)

There you go!

Here\'s a link to a site I find fairly inspirational for buildings. It\'s a Mordheim set so it\'s all ruins and quite weathered/battered. You might see something useful in there for your Weather Top model.

http://gidian-gelaende.de/Material_HP/Wolfgang/Mortheim/album/index.html

I\'m considering tackling something like this over the summer.

-Andy
 

Arma

New member
TP:

Thanks for the step-by-step! You should post a lot more terrain guides as your work is excellent.
 

Theomar Pius

New member
Originally posted by Arma
TP:

Thanks for the step-by-step! You should post a lot more terrain guides as your work is excellent.

Funny you should mention, I post wips of most of my stuff on the customhobby forum. And thanks for the kind words.
 

Dr Death

New member
Thank you all for your help, though any more information and \'takes\' on the issue would be more than welcome. I\'m not planning to embark on this immediately so the more the merrier really.

Hugh
 

minifreak

New member
Painting weathertop

I too have one of these forgeworld weathertops. I had a nightmare when attempting to paint mine. I was lucky enough to get one from ebay. However when I went to under-coat it with GW black undercoat, it did not take properly and started to flake in places:no: This resulted in a full stripdown. The only thing I could find to strip it was brake fluid. You can imagine the fear i was having. Anyway luckily with lots of sweating the next attempt took fine. I pretty much painted it as TP has explained above. As you can see from the photo I have still got 1 piece to strip and paint. This has been my project for a while now but have not had chance to work on it for over a year due to other painting commitments. This thread has just given me the inspiration to complete it. Anyway as you can see I had only been painting a couple of months when I went for it and it has turned out ok. However I am never 100% satisfied with my paintings and want to do better with every project. So who knows once I do the last bit I might have to start again.lol.

weathertopfronttl7.jpg

weathertopsidepy7.jpg
 

minifreak

New member
Hi there. Glad you like the ivy. I have stuck them on after painting, basically just to try them out. It was my plan to place some more on the model so it doesn\'t just look like they have been thrown on. Another thing I will have to finish!!!!
The leaves were purchased from Antenociti\'s workshop-great online terrain products.
Thanks.
 
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