Reaper bases
- Thread starter Ravendark
- Start date
wightzombie
New member
poopy!
or putty rather. i glue the base to a space marine stand, putty the edges round up to the level of the reaper stand then basic flock/rock the putty. pretty plain but its a nice full base with a little more to grip on the sides. eh. ive never even been nearly bold enough to cut it off the base. i dont even got tools for that i think. how would you dig out/cut out a foot near base rocks? would you cut from the top down then sideways?
or putty rather. i glue the base to a space marine stand, putty the edges round up to the level of the reaper stand then basic flock/rock the putty. pretty plain but its a nice full base with a little more to grip on the sides. eh. ive never even been nearly bold enough to cut it off the base. i dont even got tools for that i think. how would you dig out/cut out a foot near base rocks? would you cut from the top down then sideways?
sivousplay
New member
I tend to use putty to build up the base and will use the confrontation bases (I like the square pedestal) as the \"foundation.\"
jim
jim
No Such Agency
New member
For something like this you can just use the regular blue/white 2-part epoxy putty from the hardware store (LePage brand or Milliput). It\'s not the best for sculpting but for basing it\'s more than sufficient, and cheaper than green stuff too I imagine.
Temperance
New member
I actually rarely use putty when rebasing Reaper miniatures on spare GW 25 mm bases. Typically, I take a wire clipper and cut off as much of the Reaper base as I can without damaging the figure, glue it on the GW base, and prime. Then I coat the top with wood glue, strategically place some fish tank rocks in the nooks of the now removed Reaper base, and sand on the rest. The advantage is that I don\'t usually have the sand/rocks going above the feet of the miniature. (I have a whole friggin\' bag of fish tank rocks; it\'s gonna last forever...) After painting the whole miniature, I then cover any part of the base I don\'t like with Static Grass.
A good example:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/index.php?id=8114
You can see on the right side of the front view where the reaper base ends. On the left side, there\'s a pebble to disguise the level change, and on the back, I mask most of the line with another pebble and a ton of static grass.
The benefit of doing it this way? Bases only take about an hour for relatively good results; especially when I drybrush six or seven figures at a time.
A good example:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/index.php?id=8114
You can see on the right side of the front view where the reaper base ends. On the left side, there\'s a pebble to disguise the level change, and on the back, I mask most of the line with another pebble and a ton of static grass.
The benefit of doing it this way? Bases only take about an hour for relatively good results; especially when I drybrush six or seven figures at a time.
