Razor Saw (JLC or GW)?

[Antigonos]

I am about to embark on a quite ambitious conversion project of mine that will involve quite a lot of hacking (mostly resin and plastic, but there will be a couple of metal bitz here and there). I know that a razor saw is absolutely necessary for this job and I was thinking of going with the GW one, which I had used (and lost) in the past. My concerns are these:

1) I bought recently some GW tools and especially the pin vice is so badly built that it's almost useless. And I am afraid that this might be a general phaenomenon in the GW line.
2) I came across this http://www.rollmodels.net/ninbox/Tools/JLC Razor Saw 2/JLC Razor Saw 2.htm which apparently has great reviews, BUT for one disadvantage: the blade depth is only 3/8 of an inch.

So, I was wondering if you can help me with my dilemma. Has anyone worked with the JLC Razor Saw on GW minis? If yes, is it a good choice or should I go for the GW one?

Thanks

 

[noneedforaname]

dont get the GW one it loses teeth superfast and doesnt have a replaceable blade, personally i use the one from x-acto as you can replace the blades and they come in different depths. If in the UK look here http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/materials-tools/tools.html?p=6

 

[No Such Agency]

Don't buy the GW tools if others are available. The GW ones are unlikely to be better.

noneedforaname: Do the X-Acto saws still cut on the push stroke? I had one of those for ages and it was kind of maddening - I recently replaced it with a new one that cuts on the pull stroke and the control is much better IMO.

 

[noneedforaname]

tbh i cant remember, plus the blades i have are now four ish years old and still going strong so i cant comment on the new ones.

 

[freakinacage]

Don't buy the GW tools if others are available. The GW ones are unlikely to be better.
.

Very good advice that

 

[QuietiManes]

Usually replaceable blades aren't any cheaper and some times make the saw a bit flimsy. The Exacto one isn't bad though...but there are cheaper alternatives in woodworking/marquetry. For example:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55600&cat=1,42884

or another product with a little more versatility you might consider:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45654&cat=1,42884

with the #1 blades (notice the thickness is the same as the smaller 2/0?):

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32919&cat=1,42884,42904&ap=1

And I must agree, usually tools and hobby supplies from GW are best avoided (cheaper elsewhere).

 

[FrozenPyro71]

noneedforaname: Do the X-Acto saws still cut on the push stroke?

Yes they do cut on the push stroke. A highly recommended product. I've used mine on all kinds of materials and it still has all of its teeth and is still sharp.

As to GW ones, fine the first time you use them but once they start loosing teeth (which they do VERY easily) they quickly become useless.

 

[Antigonos]

Thank you all for your advice.

Usually replaceable blades aren't any cheaper and some times make the saw a bit flimsy. The Exacto one isn't bad though...but there are cheaper alternatives in woodworking/marquetry. For example:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=55600&cat=1,42884

or another product with a little more versatility you might consider:

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=45654&cat=1,42884

with the #1 blades (notice the thickness is the same as the smaller 2/0?):

http://www.leevalley.com/en/wood/page.aspx?p=32919&cat=1,42884,42904&ap=1

And I must agree, usually tools and hobby supplies from GW are best avoided (cheaper elsewhere).

The fret-saw is a great suggestion and exactly what I might need ( a really fine cutter). Do you have any suggestions as to the size of blades that I will need?

Thanks again.

 

[QuietiManes]

The smaller the better. Keep in mind, usually, these are for wood so you can't use them on tiny metal figures if they have long aggressive fast cutting teeth (though you can find metal saw blades if you look). You can usually get sampler packs but otherwise just go for the 1st and/or 2nd smallest you can find. Get extras...you'll break a few and they wear out.

 

[jbfasta]

Rather than a fret saw try a jewelers saw(sometimes called a piercing saw) they are exceptional for sawing metal figs.
They are very accurate and blades come in a variety of sizes.
There is a small learning curve in getting used to them in which you will break a few blades as they are very fine.

Jewelers Saw: http://www.hobbytools.com.au/prod87.htm

Fine blades: http://www.hobbytools.com.au/prod229.htm

I picked mine up at my local Train Modeling Shop.

 

[zombiepaints]

i have been looking at these saws and have heard some good things from others about them.they run about 12.50$ US and shipping was about 15.00 dollars US.
http://www.hlj.com/product/HSGTP-4

 

[Einion]

At the other end of the spectrum, you guys know you can make your own saw for light work, from a razorblade? Not really practical for deep cuts and where you need extreme accuracy but you can't beat the price!

Einion

 

[Tee999]

I use my cordless Dremel a lot with a small diamond saw blade for a lot of my cutting work.
I also use a jeweler saw. I will post some pics when I get home. In general I stay away from GW products.
Because it seems they really are after the profit in their tool products and not the quality. Also if you do the looking
around you generally find better quality products for less or same amount of money.

Tee

 

[Tee999]

Here are some pics of the Dremel and the 3 different cutting wheels I use.

Dremel

Cutting wheels

You can see here the thickness difference between the diamond wheel and a normal dremel cutting wheel.

hope it helps.

Tee