Painting Tutorial: Zombie flesh and monochrome with the Army Painter

ced1106

New member
Introduction: After Season 3, it was pretty apparent that I already had over a hundred zombie miniatures to paint, not even counting those outside of Zombicide. I usually pass on specialized paint sets, but figured the Army Painter Zombicide Paint Set, Toxic / Prison Paint Set, and color primers would speed up my tabletop painting.

Army Painter also has a painting tutorial: http://www.thearmypainter.com/

Supplies

For those new to painting, here's a list of additional supplies you need to paint. The good news is that, with zombies, the miniatures can have forgiving paint jobs and they'll still look good on the table.'

Jeweler's files and X-Acto Knife: You will need these inexpensive tools to remove mold lines on miniatures. They can also be found at craft stores. Mold lines are the "seam" on plastic miniatures where the metal molds join when making the plastic miniature.

Engraving Pen: The rotating industrial-grade diamond tip on this battery-powered handheld tool is useful for more quickly removing mold lines from figures. The price ranges from $10 at Harbor Tools, to $20 at hardware stores.

Hardware Primers (optional) and cardboard: The optional primer technique I use also uses black, grey, and white spray primers. Make sure you use the ones for plastic. Use cardboard and tape as a surface to prime the miniatures.

Double-stick tape and holders: Most painters will use a paint pot, empty prescription bottle, wine cork, etc. and superglue, sticky tack, etc. to adhere the miniature to the paint pot. You will want 16 or 24 of these, preferably uniform size, to paint many miniatures in one session.

High quality brush: A better brush means less frustration. You want an animal hair brush of size 0, size 0/2, and size 1. You can get inexpensive animal-hair brushes at craft stores, but will eventually also want a high-end Kolinsky Sable brushes from a hobby or art store.

Two rinse cups: A first cup washes off most of the paint, leaving the second cup relatively clean to remove the rest.

Wet palette: A wet palette keeps your paint from drying, by using a container to hold a semi-permeable sheet of parchment paper on top of sponges, and a penny to avoid mold. Search on "miniature painting wet palette".

Pink Soap: Pink Soap or Master's Brush Soap are specialized but inexpensive soaps to clean your brushes, and can be found at craft stores. I find Pink Soap easier to use. After painting, rinse out the brush and dip the head into Pink Soap and store brush-side down.

Brush-Tip Pen, Red: This will be used for the zombie eyes, and is much faster than painting.

Craft Paint, Black and Light Grey, Fine Sand, and White Glue: These materials will be used for the base, and are inexpensive at craft stores.

Aluminum Foil: With double-stick tape, you can use aluminum foil and printouts of small pictures (search on "printies") for additional basing details.


Next: First impressions of the Army Painter stuff. Here's a placeholder picture of a batch of zombies being painted!


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ced1106

New member
Army Painter Stuff



Here's a list of Army Painter supplies you'll want, in order of newbie friendliness and price.​


Strong and Soft Tone Quickshade Ink (eye dropper, $3): If you're not ready for the Zombicide paint sets, or have your own introductory set of hobby paints, Quickshade Ink is a must for the new tabletop painter. Strong is a dark brown, and Soft a lighter brown. I will include some comparison pictures in this tutorial. Of all the paints I've bought, the ink is the only "paint" I've run out of. Use these inks as washes. "Slop and glop" the ink over the figure with a hobby brush. The wash will settle in the recesses, leaving the raised areas lighter, although the overall figure will be darker. The figure will also appear dirtier, so the ink is best used on skeletons, zombies, orks, goblins, etc. You can also apply the wash as a "controlled wash" like paint. Note that Army Painter also has a Quickshade varnish sold in a tin, a different product. I prefer the ink because it can be used more easily indoors.


QuickShade Ink Set: I recommend to new tabletop painters the QuickShade Ink Set as their "second paint set". Besides the Strong, Soft, and Dark (black) Tones, the set comes with three color tones: Green, Red, Blue, and Purple. (No yellow or orange, however.) When used with a basecoat of the same or similar color, the wash will quickly shade the color (eg. Green Tone Ink with green orc or goblin skin). A wash used directly on primer will act like a shade (if the basecoats are thin), and is useful to guide you in painting the shaded areas of the model.


Zombicide Core Zombie Set and Toxic / Prisoner Set: If Zombicide are your first miniatures to paint or you have more than one season of zombies to paint, there's no reason not to have these sets. The core set has ten paints, and the second set has six. Some of the paints are on the thick side, but can be thinned with water, wash, or leftover watered-down wash that's absorbed some water through the wet palette.


The core set has: Zombie Shader (brown-grey wash), Glistening Blood (bright red for fresh blood), Crusted Sore (dark red for dried blood), Dirt Splatter (brown), Brainmatter Beige (white), Zombie Skin (Skeleton Bone), Filthy Suit (grey), Dead Black (black), Wasted Jeans (blue), and Mouldy Clothes (green). The Toxic / Prisoner Set has Jumpsuit Shader, Prison Jumpsuit (orange), Scaly Hide (pale green), Boney Spikes (yellow brown), Toxic Boils (pale purple), and Toxic Shader (purple wash).


Zombie Skin (brownish white): AP's use of Skeleton White for Zombie Skin is a good practical color choice for new painters, since its neutral bright color more easily contrasts with other colors than darker skin. Likewise, if you accidentally paint a zombie's clothing with this color, it's easy to paint over. You can still use Filthy Suit if you want a grey zombie, and mix Zombie Skin with other colors for different colors of skin. Start with a lighter skin because the shade darkens the skin color. This paint is thick, and can be thinned with water or even wash.


Zombie Shader (grey brown): This wash behaves similarly to AP's Strong and Soft Tone Inks.


Glistening Blood (bright red): With a Size 0 or smaller brush, I found this opaque paint quite useful for painting in "evil eyes". I didn't need to thin the paint out like I did with Zombie Skin.


Color Primers: As suggested by the name, Army Painter Color Primers were designed for miniature gamers who have entire armies to paint. Most boardgamer won't need a $15 can of primer in a specific color -- except when they have over a hundred zombies. In fact, in just the base game and first standalone set, Zombicide has over one hundred basic zombies. If you save a just three minutes of basecoating per zombie, that's *five hours* of painting you don't need to do. However, besides expense, I'm finding the colored primers a little less easy to use than hardware-bought spray primers. I made mistakes (paint drying before landing on the miniature) by not carefully following the Army Painter videos on using the primer. Thankfully, zombies are pretty tolerant of painting mistakes, and the usual thin layers of paint fixed any primer problems. Each can of primer paints about fifty miniatures, so you'll need two of them for the basic zombies.
 
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