Painting Checkers

[Tahn]

Hi, I am wondering how you go about painting checkers, as in the pattern you get on chess boards (and skater wristbands).

I have seen \'the quick ways to do it\' in magazines and such, but I am thinking about how to do, making a good job of it.

Does any one have a walkthrough, or a tip for me for making good quality checks on a model? Thanks.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Practice on something else first, try a model base that you\'ve primed up. 40mm Monster base is good as you can do a couple of strips of checks.
Keep your paints thin and be prepared to go back and re-work the edges to keep it tidy.

If you want to work on a curved surface try getting a piece of very thin card and curve it alongside the surface you want to paint. Mark on the card the start and end of the curve and then lay the card on a flat surface and measure the distance beteen the start and end.
That way you can get an idea of how long the curve is and how many divisions you can break it up into.

Hope that this helps.

 

[Tahn]

Thanks Dragonsreach. You have definatelly cleared up the technical side, now I know hot I should keep it looking realistic, and in proportion. Thanks!

I have one more question though. How would I apply the pattern onto the mini? Would I paint it with each square at a time (doesn\'t seem right to me...), ot would I paint the stripes going in one direction, and then again in the other? Thanks again.

 

[Dragonsreach]

For this mini:
http://www.coolminiornot.com/125011
On Black primer I painted in the white as lines with very thin light grey paint and then filled in the blocks very carefully, I used Vallejo Off white as the 1st Highlight and then pure White for the last highlight. I tidied up any stray brush marks with thinned black before adding a tiny touch of grey to give highlights on the black squares.

As I wanted a dirty and weathered look I washed them over with very dilute Vallejo Black Glaze. (and then the rust marks).

Oh yes and each shoulder pad took a couple of hours so be prepared to take your time.

 

[Tahn]

I get you, I\'m going to practice on an old base now. Thanks for everything Dragonsreach, You\'ve explained it clear enough for some one of my low intellect to understand . (I like your little signature logo on the base btw lol)

 

[Dragonsreach]

Glad to help .
Don\'t forget to post up a picture of how you are doing.

 

[Tahn]

Yes, of course! This checker pattern is for my UK Youngbloods entry this year. My pattern is going to be on clothing, so your advice with the technicality and proportion will pay off, with all the creases and what have you... :beer:

 

[Ogrebane]

Hey DR what do you use for the rust. Is it like a flesh wash or something. I like how that mini turned out the rust is very good.

 

[automaton]

You could try painting the area white first, then doing your grid in black. Firstly, it\'s neasier to apply black over white than the other way around. Secondly, the checks you paint will be slightly larger than the alternate checks that you leave with the underneath colour, because the width of the grid lines is added to the edges of the squares. So by doing the grid and painted checks black, this difference is masked because black things look smaller than white things - optical illusion! That\'s why \'black is slimming\' haha

 

[Dragonsreach]

Originally posted by Ogrebane
Hey DR what do you use for the rust. Is it like a flesh wash or something. I like how that mini turned out the rust is very good.

Winsor & Newton\'s Artist acrylic (Tube) Raw Sienna & Burnt Sienna, I make this into an extremely thin wash and apply several layers, wherever possible working UP to the point of origin for the rust. That can mean painting the figure upside down sometimes.
These two tubes are going to last me at least 4 lifetimes in the amounts I use.

 

[Tahn]

I gave it a go a week back (the night before I went on holiday) and spent only 5 mins, only a practice after all. Please tell me if I\'m doing OK or not, I still obviously need to clean it up.