Painting a miniature car?

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Alowan

New member
Hi, I have had this model for a very long time. It is a custom made model of my car, which I built with my dad when I was younger. It holds great sentimental value and is almost one of a kind. I just recently (after starting on minis again) decided to get it done and began on it. It needs a few fixes etc. since I molested it last time I worked on it (I was younger and had little idea of how to handle a mini).

I am currently putting the pieces together and have run into a problem. I have no idea how I should paint it.

The model has chrome parts and real rubber tires and I don't know if I should "repaint" the chrome parts.

I also don't know if I should paint the car the same way I paint minis (with layers and blending) and then give it a glossy finish, or if I should paint it a single shade of red and give it a glossy finish. (and then paint the interior the normal way).

I am also working on some ideas for a workshop or road diorama, but that is another story :D


I really hope someone can give me some ideas or pointers of how to approach this. It seems that every pre made car model is a single shade but I really don't know if that is the way to go. The same goes for the chrome parts.


View attachment 14532
 
QuietiManes

QuietiManes

New member
Well, it's your car, buddy. So, it's your choice. :giggle: If the wheels turn, I'd think it would be best to not paint them and leave the car unattached to anything, even if you do put it in a diorama. I'd probably try to do some subtle highlights and shading in the paint scheme, just because of the size, there won't be much natural highlighting or shading.

If you want to protect the chrome and tires, you can get liquid frisket. It's like a rubbery film you can paint on, acts as a barrier when you paint. Then it can be peeled or rubbed off after you're done painting. It's at art and craft stores. Not really much use if you're going to brush the whole thing, but much easier than taping little things off if you are spraying.

I think the prepainted toy cars are all single shades because that's just how toys are made. It's cheaper and easier for manufacturers and kids don't care or even notice. Do you have a collection of cars? Do you want to match their look and style? That could be a good idea, too. Then again...if you want it to stand out...

Yeah, I'm not much help.
 
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Alowan

New member
Even though you say you aren't much help I think you are. I need some thoughts and input on what do do and you are giving me just that. :D

I will leave the wheels as is. I don't have a collection and I just want it to really stand out so subtle highlights might be the way to go. I think you are right about that it is the way model cars are made, but I was also thinking that a shiny finish would be a problem with highlights?

The thing with the chrome is that I don't know if I should keep it as it is or prime it and paint it again..


Any input is appreciated.
 
Dragonsreach

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
I'd say keep the chrome.
The liquid frisket Quiet manes refers to is called Masking Fluid and is a material beloved/hated in equal parts by watercolourists.
You can apply it by brush, just wipe the brush in soap (and constantly) first as it's a liquid latex and without the soap totally shafts your brush. BTDTGTS.

As for painting the car other than ensuring that the panel lines are defined only a tiny suggestion of shadow on the lower half of the car is needed to make it stand out.
 
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Alowan

New member
Thanks for the tips.

I have run into another problem regarding this model - I can't figure out the color. I thought it would be close to mephiston red but it is not - is there any way to match gw colors or alike to a color code?

And do anyone have any tips/ideas how to paint the headlights - I have looked all over for a tutorial or guide but there don't seem to be anything about how to paint glass/headlights.



Image for color:

View attachment 14534
 
QuietiManes

QuietiManes

New member
This might help you narrow down the colour. It matches a pictures colour to the Reaper paints...you can then look up (elsewhere) what that paint is close to in whatever paint you use or have. You can even get the highlight, mid-tone and shadow. Or as many shades as you'd like.

http://www.reapermini.com/powerpalette

Headlights are more common in the military/train modelling, I know I've seen it done in tutorials a few different ways but can't think where. I'm sure a forum or google search would yield good results.
 
contractor675

contractor675

New member
Alowan said:
Thanks for the tips.

I have run into another problem regarding this model - I can't figure out the color. I thought it would be close to mephiston red but it is not - is there any way to match gw colors or alike to a color code?
Click to expand...

If you can pull the paint code from the VIN, you might be able to get a small container of duplicolor touch up paint - it has a pen on one end and a brush at the other- at an auto parts store.

Alowan said:
And do anyone have any tips/ideas how to paint the headlights - I have looked all over for a tutorial or guide but there don't seem to be anything about how to paint glass/headlights.
Click to expand...

After painting the chrome on the lights, let it dry and use a toothpick to add a drop or two of PVA. The PVA will dry clear and look like the headlight lens.
 
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Alowan

New member
I have the actual paint I used for the car - but was told I should be careful using auto paints on miniatures.

Edit: I built and painted the car myself.
 
QuietiManes

QuietiManes

New member
It's just really thick. The pigments are huge by comparison (generally speaking). You can try thinning it out and using it on a coin, see how it covers, how grainy it looks, etc.
 
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funnymouth

New member
i would advise against using the auto paint - that seems like a recipe for disaster if it goes poorly, and the simple shading would be more difficult to pull off. a sample swatch of it could be quite useful, on the other hand. take it with you when you go to the FLGS and compare it to all the reds made by reaper, vallejo and GW, then pick the best. a curved sample would be all the better to choose an appropriate low-light and hi-light color. for something like this - a model with high sentimental value - you should take your time and get it right the first time so you don't have any regrets later; test first. as for the headlights: paint those areas using metallic paints, with the same hi-light pattern you see in the picture (so, similar to a gem technique) then "cap" them as suggested above.

edit: an example of a miniature you've recently painted could help greatly...
 
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Einion

Einion

New member
Alowan said:
I have run into another problem regarding this model - I can't figure out the color. I thought it would be close to mephiston red but it is not - is there any way to match gw colors or alike to a color code?
Click to expand...
How close do you need to get? This isn't a question with an easy answer, but it's a difficult problem in the first place in more ways than the obvious. For example if you had a small sample of the actual paint used on the real car and you painted the miniature car with it, it would look too dark because of an effect referred to as scale colour.

If you have a limited number of paints currently and you want to start with the closest you have and work from there the thing to do is try to figure out how it's off (in what way/ways) to give you a direction to head in tweaking it - too orange, not orange enough, too dull etc. etc?

But regular miniature paints being so matt, they're not ideal for this...

Alowan said:
And do anyone have any tips/ideas how to paint the headlights - I have looked all over for a tutorial or guide but there don't seem to be anything about how to paint glass/headlights.
Click to expand...
No really simple options here, the best effects in miniature are usually achieved using hollowed lights with very good plastic lenses installed on top, just like IRL. Failing that with a solid light like you have the best effect might be achieved by painting it NMM/SENMM (i.e. like an artist would paint it in a picture).

Einion
 
A

Alowan

New member
Thanks - CMON always have some great input.

I see what you mean Einion since I did a test with the real paint and it looked dark.
I am currently trying out all the reds I have and have bought a medium that I can apply that makes it shiny - and while it works rather well I am still unsure wether to use it or not since it is hard to judge if the effect will mimic real paint on a car.



The chrome parts are extremely hard/firm and I can't seem to cut or drill into those without destroying them - so adding real headlights etc. is not an option (even though I have thought about it). NMM might be an option - but I don't know if I have the skill yet. :) (Haven't even tried sky earth NMM).



EDIT: Btw currently trying to add some extra details like seat belts, crash rod etc. by sculpting/creating them in GS. But the green stuff is to soft/bendy so will try a 50/50 mix of that and standard miliput.
 
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airhead

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Is that car metal or plastic?

If it is metal, I'd probably airbrush them with some good testors enamels. Gloss red.

If it is plastic, look at the model master line.

for masking pinstripes, rally stripes, etc. and general masking, you can use electrical tape and get a good edge.

Leave the chromed parts chrome.

Look at Nascar/NHRA Funny cars, etc. for good fake headlights.
 
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Alowan

New member
That is some great inspiration for headlights.

I was hoping I could paint the mini with the paint I had and then use ardcoat gloss on it - but I can see that it might not give the real polished metal paint look. Will look at my local model/hobby store for some glossy paint (testers - the mini is metal).
 
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nebelwerfer41

New member
I would suggest talking to some folks who regularly work with 1/35 and 1/48 scale model cars. You might have to put in some shading, but I seem to recall that the trick for a good "showroom" finish is many successive layers of gloss paint, sometimes follwed up with actual car wax.

For the chrome parts, use several layers of liquimask to fully cover them before painting. Carefully trim away the excess liquid mask for a clean edge between the chromed parts and the body color.

Additional part like the crashbar and whatnot are best replicated by bending some small metal rods into place. You're straying closer and closer to scale modelling, so visiting a site like FSM.com might give more info on adding other details like headlights.
 
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Alowan

New member
Thanks. Hehe I am going away from what I really are on this site for - need to get back to some real minis :D
 
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