Matte Varnish - Airbrush Application

[Splurch]

I use Liquitex Matte Varnish applied with an airbrush over a gloss coat to protect my stuff. A few years ago I tried a bunch of different Matte Varnishes and Liquitex/Vallejo seemed to do the best job of killing the gloss it is applied over. I chose Liquitex due to it's non yellowing properties. While I'm not really dissatisfied with the choice, I have 2 things that could be better.

First, in regards to application, if I just spray a coat on like a gloss (until a smooth, wet coat is formed,) the matte becomes more of a satin or becomes a bit "fuzzy" and just doesn't look good. I have to apply it very slowly in extremely thin layers to really get it right, to the point that it dries almost instantly after it hits the model, so that I can use reflections from my light to see the gloss coat die. Its a pain and very time consuming but has great results. Anyone know of an airbrushable matte varnish that can be quickly and easily applied without having to take care not to get too much on? Or maybe some tricks to still kill the shine while being able to apply the varnish more quickly.

Second, blacks "lighten up" a bit when the matte is applied to them, in that they don't so much change color but are no longer as deep a black as they were, other colors don't really have this issue. I've encountered this with every matte I've put through the airbrush and as far as I can tell is simply a trait of matte varnish over very dark colors, but recently realized someone may have come up with a workaround.

 

[Tjomball]

Try Army Painter Matte varnish..

 

[airhead]

Put very light coats of matte varnish over gloss to protect a mini.
Putting too heavy a coat does not let the matting agents lay down on the surface properly. Thus the satin finish.

Try some rattle cans:
Testor's dullcoat
Krylon Krystal Klear matte.

They are solvent based and will dry quicker than the water based airbrush stuff.

 

[Splurch]

Put very light coats of matte varnish over gloss to protect a mini.
Putting too heavy a coat does not let the matting agents lay down on the surface properly. Thus the satin finish.

Try some rattle cans:
Testor's dullcoat
Krylon Krystal Klear matte.

They are solvent based and will dry quicker than the water based airbrush stuff.

Yeah, I've got the technique down so that I can avoid the satin finish. I was hoping there was a way to get a great result through the airbrush without having it take so much time and it sounds like there isn't. Thanks for the replies

 

[airhead]

Yeah, I've got the technique down so that I can avoid the satin finish. I was hoping there was a way to get a great result through the airbrush without having it take so much time and it sounds like there isn't. Thanks for the replies

Nothing happens through an airbrush that doesn't take more time than traditional brush or rattle can.

That said, you can get some automotive clears and mattes that will go through the AB wonderfully. They are isocyanurates, so you need respirators, bunny suits and exhaust systems. Definitely not something you want on your skin or in your lungs.

 

[Splurch]

Nothing happens through an airbrush that doesn't take more time than traditional brush or rattle can.

That said, you can get some automotive clears and mattes that will go through the AB wonderfully. They are isocyanurates, so you need respirators, bunny suits and exhaust systems. Definitely not something you want on your skin or in your lungs.

Wow, definitely don't have the setup to spray those. Interesting reading up on them as car paints (and how nasty they are to your health,) I've always wondered what it was that made car paint so durable