liquid masking

[MrPickles]

i bought some to use on some vehicles to do some chipped paint effect. my painting table has paint all over it so i figured i would dump some of the masking onto it to serve as a quick test.

i noticed first of all it takes forever to dry. second of all, it's very difficult to even see where i put the masking since it dries clear and flat. then when i tried pulling a patch up off the table i noticed it took all of the acrylic paint with it (i hope it wouldnt do the same thing on a model becasue that would be a disaster).

so what do you think? do i just have a crapy brand? to me it seems like it might aswell be PVA glue.

the brand is parma international liquid mask. got it from some hobby store for 5 bucks. i was hoping it would do the job but maybe not.

 

[MrPickles]

well just doing more reading.

looks like the liquid mask i bought just sucksass. looks like it's heading to the trash, im not going to bother with it. anyone have a good brand to recommend?

 

[Spoontoes]

I've used Vallejo's liquid mask but only when covering bare metal that I didn't want to get covered in spray primer due to it being a surface I needed to glue later. It dries a sortof bluey colour and rubs off very easily - not sure how long the drying time was as I just left it there till I needed to glue. Seemed like good stuff to me though as far as I've used it.

 

[MrPickles]

picked up mold builder liquid latex from michaels. it was around 25 bucks after using a 25% off coupon.

just tried it. wow, perfect. it dries fast and rolls off very easily. you could easily just roll it off with your fingers.

that other crap was like trying to take off super glue.

 

[Wigdog]

I'd definately try any product on a sprue or old tank before you try it on the current project - just to make sure. The Liquitex should work for you. I know some folks use the salt method for chipping as well and others simply paint the chips - a lot of it will be personal preference and the look you are trying to achieve.

 

[RuneBrush]

I've tried W&N and Humbrol and can say that without a doubt W&N is the better of the two. Dries with a milky look to it and rubs/picks off easily. The biggest thing to be aware of is that some masks will contain oil, this generally isn't a problem, but certain colours (I'm looking at you red) you'll find you may get a grease mark on.

Wigdog's right as well, salting can produce really good weathered effect - for a vehicle I think it's easier to apply although a combination of salt and liquid mask will produce a very controllable result.

 

[MrPickles]

i have 6 vehicles to do so my plan at the moment is prime - airbrush bolt gun metal - sponge on mithril silver - sponge on liquid latex - airbrush red. highlight etc up from there.

painting on chips would be very time consuming

 

[Einion]

If you're looking for a quick method for doing chipping it doesn't get much easier than this and it can work well. But do be warned, once you get a full layer of paint over the dried masking it becomes trickier to remove. Do you know about creating a ball of latex to act as a rubber?

FWIW I'd drybrush the silver on areas of high wear, rather than sponging it on which will create a texture that I'm not sure equates to anything.

Einion

 

[RuneBrush]

i have 6 vehicles to do so my plan at the moment is prime - airbrush bolt gun metal - sponge on mithril silver - sponge on liquid latex - airbrush red. highlight etc up from there.

painting on chips would be very time consuming

Have a look at this thread I did some time ago. I think you're going to end up with a bit of a nightmare if you apply liquid latex with a sponge, especially removing it. The boltgun & mithril have quite a high gloss so you're going to run the risk of rubbing red paint off at the same time as the liquid latex when you come to remove it.

Sponging chips on looks very effective - so paint it red and then sponge on charadon granite followed by boltgun where you want it more worn. Alternatively a light coat of boltgun metal, salt it and then red airbrush it.

 

[MrPickles]

what do you think of the osl on the search light?

to my eye it looks good. customer said at first he wasnt sure if he liked it then said that he did like it later. and it seems like a mixed bag with some other people ive asked, they either like it or dont understand what it's supposed to be.

would a green wash sell it more or make it look worse?

http://www.coolminiornot.com/300083?browseid=731136

 

[Dragonsreach]

what do you think of the osl on the search light?

To be honest it doesn't look how OSL should.
Light travels in straight lines from the source and should diminish the further away from the source. You have light travelling behind a shielded light source and illuminating areas which would be unlit. You also have on the model areas which should interrupt the light and change the light wash on the surface.

 

[MrPickles]

View attachment 12059

I was trying to do something similiar to this. ^^
what do you think the best way to fix mine would be? maybe if i airbrush some blood red on top to make it less intense. ?
im not trying to be ultra realistic or win a demon or anything but i would still like it to be a bit better.

To be honest it doesn't look how OSL should.
Light travels in straight lines from the source and should diminish the further away from the source. You have light travelling behind a shielded light source and illuminating areas which would be unlit. You also have on the model areas which should interrupt the light and change the light wash on the surface.