Liche Purple Blending Problems

GraveRobber

New member
I have been doing a conversion for the devotee malicant figure,turning him into a slannesh cultist for my inquisitor games, and decided to do his main robes in liche purple.

I am no expert at blending but I do have some experience with it and it normaly turns out well.

however I ran into a problem with this paint color, for one I find it is a GW paint that seems to be thick and watery at once.

I ran into alot of problems trying to blend with this...I find that even when I add some white to it and thin it a little, while blending with it, it turns out far too watery to the point that I cant get nice even blending coats.

Has anyone had this problem or have any suggestions on trying to blend with this ?

Thanks
 
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Sturmhalo

Guest
Don\'t really understand the problem. Can a paint be watery and thick?! I usually add a little black for a base coat, then highlight up to pure liche purple, then add warlock purple for more highlights, then perhaps add bleached bone for some sharp highlights. Always found it to cover to quite well. You have to be careful when adding the bleached bone or white to the colour as this changes the colour totally and you need to highlight quite subtley to begin with!

:D
 

GraveRobber

New member
Its odd...

I ran into a similar case with \"scorpion\" green, I know it sounds strange saying its thick and watery,but its the only way I can explain it I guess.

Its like...when you take some out of the pot, and add a touch of water ( I normaly know to use just enough so thats not it ) it tends to make it too watery in a way that it \"streaks\" rather than going on as alot of their other paints do.

The same with scorpion green,its like you have to use 20 light coats of it to get an even paint job.

I normaly water down my paints to begin with but with this paint its just nutz !
 
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studio_black

Guest
I no what you mean
but if you use a couple of coats over and over again you will come up to the blend you like
you just have to build up the color even if it looks as if your brush is not puting paint down it is just takes time
when blending i will ues a mix of
1part paint to 5 to 10 parts water

hope this helped
 
Hmmm..

Sounds as if the pigment has separated from the binding fluid.

Try getting in that paintpot with something and stir up the goop from the bottom. Then seal her up and take that paint pot and SHAKE IT!
Shake, shake, shake.
Shake until your arm is sore, shake till you can shake no more :flip:

If this doesn\'t work your paint may be too old to use (unlikely). But it has happened to me recently with some 10+ years old Ultramarine blue that I ended up replacing.
Good luck I hope this helps a bit.

Peace!
-Saxonangel

:innocent:
 

Rachel

New member
thick+watery...

I have a paint that\'s similarly annoying - it\'s Vallejo\'s Blue Fluo, which is very thick, gel-like in consistency straight from the bottle, but doesn\'t thin well. It doesn\'t mix particularly well with water, and seems to have less pigmentation than my other vallejo\'s, so is a total pig to use - it goes on thick but with very little colour. (and yes, I shook it :) ).

It seems to be a problem with the fluorescent paints (ditto for Green) more than any others in their line, although I\'m finding the Game Colour a little frustrating too - thinner with less pigmentation, means I can\'t use it the way I like to.

Haven\'t encountered a problem with Liche Purple, so far I\'ve found the coverage very good and the only problem a slight propensity to dry lighter when mixed with pale colours like white or pallid flesh, ditto Imperial Purple. However, I don\'t generally blend as I prefer layering :) .
 

GraveRobber

New member
Thanks

Thanks for all the comments, I think I might throw in some old \"Tags\" of metal and shake the suckers till my arm has cramps :)
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
Saxonangel has hit the nail right on the head.
It\'s the binding agent separating by not being shaked for a long time. My Rotting Flesh has just done something exactly like this, and of course it\'s just when I need to use it to mix up another colour..******.
As suggested use as many old \'Tabs\' off figures as possible and drop them in the paint pots. Then, (with the lid on properly) shake like mad.

Tip:- Keep your thumb on top of the bottle, just in case.
 

GraveRobber

New member
Oh yea...

Haha I was also going ot mention rotting flesh as doing this also.

I think I may have some others from the old \"epic\" space marine set.

Some of these paints I have are from 1992 !!! of course...some of them I never used but they are surprisingly still like new.

The problems I have mentioned however do seem to affect only some GW paints...new or old.

They mostly seem to be with the brighter paints however...well...except white and chaos black...those two have always been as thick as glue !
 
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Sturmhalo

Guest
Anyone remember the bronze colour that GW used about 15 years ago? All the pigment sank to the bottom of the pot whilst the milky looking vehicle floated to the top! Damned if I could mix it properly!
 

GraveRobber

New member
Hrmmm

I am not too sure,was that from the old \"metallics\" range ?

I have one of those old \"shinning gold\" pots with the little two golden deamons on the lable.

It has always had a murky green swirl to it, I swear you have to give that pot a darn good hand working ( ahem ) shake.

no matter what you do to shinning gold,it will always go green after about a day,mixing or not !
 
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Evonine

Guest
Actually this problem can be caused by too little pigment and too much medium in a paint-which is often the problem with many cheaper paints. I\'ve had this problem with more than one of GW\'s line. Basically, it\'s not that the paint is thin so much as it is that a thin coat doesn\'t give good coverage like most of the paints do. It does make blending a problem.
Unfortunatly, I don\'t really have a sollution-I just tend to find a brand which has a similiar color to the one I\'m using that works better!
 
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