Is it worth switching to Vallejo Model Air?

[MintFish]

I've been using my airbrush to prime my miniatures since I first started the hobby last year. Since I'm a little more experienced with it now, I've started using it for some basecoating and other effects. However, I've been having a lot of problems achieving consistent results. Specifically I'm trying to apply a red basecoat for some dragon whelps and find that the airbrush clogs very quickly. It also tends to offer very inconsistent and scant coverage when it actually gets the paint through. I'm currently using Vallejo Game Color (Gory Red) with Vallejo's Thinner as a medium; I've been very careful in straining the paint and mixing it well but I'm still making very slow progress since the brush craps out very quickly.

Given that I'm losing a lot of patience I've been wondering if making the switch to Vallejo Model Air would save time. I understand those paints are designed with airbrushing in mind and wanted to know if any of you can attest to whether or not it makes a significant enough difference. Also, if you can please recommend a good alternative to Gory Red, I'd really appreciate it.

 

[Engineer Jeff]

I reeeeeally like the VMA line. I even use it to brush with my sables. You dont need to thin it, but sometimesI do when I'm doing really fine detail work and pushing paint through the airbrush at a low PSI.

 

[skraaal]

* Try a similar shade from the GW range.
* Remember that just like using a brush, many thin layers will give you the best uniform and consistent results and coverage.
* Thin your paints to a semi-skimmed milk like consistency. The thinner the paint mix, the lower the PSI you'll need to spray at.
* Spray at around 25-30 PSI until your very comfortable with using the brush, and remember not to spray too close to the model as your paint will pool.

Also remember basic rules, such as reds, yellows and brighter colours will always look more vivid over a white base coat.

Hope this helps!

 

[RuneBrush]

VMA are very good, the metallics especially. I've never been overly fond of VGC and found them to be a poor imitation of GW's colours (that is my opinion). VGC Gory Red is the same colour as GW's Red Gore from their previous range or (roughly) Khorne Red from their new range. I've airbrushed both those colours on quite happily - you will need to clean the tip of the needle fairly regularly though. Also bear in mind that if you intend to varnish red, it will make the red quite dark so try and push it a little lighter than you might otherwise (spray a test sprue if you're unsure).

 

[QuietiManes]

The VMA pigments are smaller than the VGC pigments, as far as I know, but if your problem isn't the pigment size...It really depends on your knowledge and skill with the airbrush AND which airbrush and nozzle/needle size you're using.

Sounds like you're covering most of the steps right. Might try pulling back on the trigger more, opening up the nozzle, moving across the model faster and/or reducing the PSI to avoid applying too much paint. Wide open nozzles should clog less.

 

[Einion]

It is possible that switching to VMA (or another airbrush paint, best not to overlook the alternatives) may help a lot here, but saying that a lot of people spray VMC and VGC without problems so 'regular' paints are definitely airbrushable.

If your nozzle is suitable for spraying paint of this kind scrupulous attention to cleaning the nozzle periodically during the session may help a bit, but since you say you're straining the paint I don't think that's the main issue.

What are you straining your paint through by the way?

Einion

 

[MintFish]

It is possible that switching to VMA (or another airbrush paint, best not to overlook the alternatives) may help a lot here, but saying that a lot of people spray VMC and VGC without problems so 'regular' paints are definitely airbrushable.

If your nozzle is suitable for spraying paint of this kind scrupulous attention to cleaning the nozzle periodically during the session may help a bit, but since you say you're straining the paint I don't think that's the main issue.

What are you straining your paint through by the way?

Einion

I've been using an old nylon to strain my paint; I band it tight over the dropper bottle and give the bottle a squeeze. Other information includes using a .5 mm needle and spraying at about 35 psi. I have been wetting the tip with a moistened inter-dental brush and it does help get the paint moving again, but the paint proceeds to slow down and clog almost as soon as I finish test spraying.

That being said, I am using a TCP Global Airbrush (G-24 Master), which is a cheaper brand. But I clean it well and go through the proper maintenance so I don't think that should really affect the performance that much.

 

[QuietiManes]

A .5 should be plenty big enough to let the VGC flow as long as you're pulling the trigger back enough. If you don't pull back enough you can't spray anything, since it's closed, of course. Lots of people use a .3 to spray GW, Vallejo, etc...even craft paints.

Are you using new nylon every time you squeeze the paint bottle? If you leave it on 24/7 the paint dries on the filter and you get the same dried out chunks in your airbrush. Although, I can't imagine you'd get that many to be that consistently problematic.

Have you mixed the crap out of the paint? To make sure all the components are integrated the way they're supposed to be? What else do you use in your thinner? If you're using alcohol or windex or anything like that, it significantly shortens the dry time, switching to water might help. Otherwise, adding a retarder may help with the drying. Glycerin or Liquitex Slo-Dri or whatever. Doesn't sound like drying is your issue though, being so quick.

Even though you said you keep it clean, try looking at the head assembly through a magnifying glass or just drop it in some acetone or some really harsh cleaner. You might be surprised at what you can miss and/or what can build up.

 

[Einion]

A .5 should be plenty big enough to let the VGC flow as long as you're pulling the trigger back enough.

I presumed it couldn't be anything as simple as that, but maybe? A looser setting on the needle and a slight drop in pressure might be the ticket then.

Einion

 

[RuneBrush]

Just reinforcing the comments above. I spray acrylics out of my 0.3 gravity fed brush and rarely go higher than 15psi unless I'm cleaning it through.

Please don't be insulted by this comment, but have you dismantled and really thoroughly cleaned your airbrush? I spent about half an hour one day cleaning mine using an aerosol based cleaner (evil stuff that'll dissolve anything given time) and a load of interdental brushes, proper airbrush cleaning brushes and bits and bobs and was shocked by the crap I pulled out! Bearing in mind I dismantle and clean it at the end of every session (and sometimes during) I felt quite ashamed with myself...

After you've cleaned your airbrush and reassembled, put some plain water in the cup and blow air through the brush (don't pull back on the trigger). If you can see bubbles, the needle doesn't have a full seal with the tip. This might mean the needle is damaged, the tip is damaged or there is still gak somewhere in the assembly.

 

[Einion]

Please don't be insulted by this comment, but have you dismantled and really thoroughly cleaned your airbrush? I spent about half an hour one day cleaning mine using an aerosol based cleaner (evil stuff that'll dissolve anything given time) and a load of interdental brushes, proper airbrush cleaning brushes and bits and bobs and was shocked by the crap I pulled out! Bearing in mind I dismantle and clean it at the end of every session (and sometimes during) I felt quite ashamed with myself...

Yeah, clean should mean clean when it comes to airbrushes. That's why I rely on solvents - only way to be sure you're getting rid of anything dried in place.

I also use acetone to clean off the nozzle tip periodically during a spray session, as I refer to above, brushing over the tip with a small stiff-bristled brush and then flushing with water. This is one of the things that I arrived at through trial and error spraying acrylics, otherwise I really would spend more time breaking the AB down than actually spraying since the nozzle wants to clog up every single time.

Einion

 

[MintFish]

Please don't be insulted by this comment, but have you dismantled and really thoroughly cleaned your airbrush? I spent about half an hour one day cleaning mine using an aerosol based cleaner (evil stuff that'll dissolve anything given time) and a load of interdental brushes, proper airbrush cleaning brushes and bits and bobs and was shocked by the crap I pulled out! Bearing in mind I dismantle and clean it at the end of every session (and sometimes during) I felt quite ashamed with myself...

After you've cleaned your airbrush and reassembled, put some plain water in the cup and blow air through the brush (don't pull back on the trigger). If you can see bubbles, the needle doesn't have a full seal with the tip. This might mean the needle is damaged, the tip is damaged or there is still gak somewhere in the assembly.

I don't think cleaning is the issue; I'm pretty OCD about cleaning my airbrush and I give it a full clean after each use with water, alcohol and cleaner. I tried the air bubble test as well and didn't see any in my color cup.

In response to other comments I did try lowering the PSI a bit and loosening the chuck so I can pull the trigger back further. I feel that actually did make a slight difference so it's probably as simple as figuring out the right PSI for the right thickness of paint. I'll try again later to see if that clears things up.

Thanks a bunch for all the advice, guys!

 

[moetle]

Ok This video was posted a while back by someone else. To that person thank you. But as it helped me 100% I'm hoping it will help you as well. I'm no expert but myadvice is Watch the WHOLE thing. Don't watch just the first 5 and think it's not for you. It also doesn't matter what kind of AB your using. He also covers cleaning and the right way to clean your AB as well(most here wont believe him but what he says is true).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tsW-vN0_lHw

I have had the exact same problem your having when i first started airbrushing with paints that aren't really ment for the AB and the solution i found was watering it down even more. The trick after that is control and practice and not letting it pool using light coats. DO NOT USE AMMONIA(windex) to thin your paints. whoever came up with that was wrong! and its a health hazard. Does it work, yes. does it work well, no. If your using GW reaper Vallejo or any other water based acrylic just use water and maybe a little drying retarder. Will it take longer to paint stuff? Yes, but if your paint is always clogging the tip your not painting anything at all I have also started using ragdab needlejuice and have noticed a difference.

I use a .3mm devlbiss dagr and a .25 master and i haven't had a clog but once in a great while and thats with GW's foundation paint. I run about 5-15 psi depending on what I'm airbrushing, averaging about 8 most of the time. Hope that helps.

Moe

P.S. make sure you didn't bend the needle tip also. I also never strain my paints (gasp!)

P.P.S. VMA can be used right out of the bottle, but i thin those with water as well. They are great paints (at least the few i have).

 

[Elric2k]

I haven't seen this mentioned yet, or I missed it, but it sounds like more than anything you have a bad case of tip dry. I was getting this problem alot with my VMC/VGC when I first started out. A tip of the hat to Andrew at schnauzer face minis for showing me the light, but once i started mixing in a decent bit of Slo-Dri to my airbrush thinning concoction I have FAR less problems with paint clogging or drying on the tip. Another tip that you can use if you're comfortable enough with doing this, is to release the nut holding the needle all the way, pull the needle back past the paint cup, and flush out paint from the nozzle.