Inks vs. Washes...
- Thread starter Citizen V
- Start date
AinuLainour
New member
You can never have washes too thin, believe me. 
You may need multiple coats, but the end result will be much smoother.
You may need multiple coats, but the end result will be much smoother.Spacemunkie
New member
Paint consistency is another weapon in your painting arsenal. I can never understand the immediate recommendation to water ALL your paints and inks down. Ludicrous. I regularly use neat or almost neat paint and ink for stuff. It\'s sometimes the only way to get an effect I\'m after. Depends on if you\'re painting for display or just knocking out some troops too...
Try Vallejo\'s Game Colour inks. Very nice and dry quite matte. Their Sepia is my new favourite. They also do a Black Green which is great for armour.
Coat D\'arms still make the original Citadel inks from when they came in dropper bottles. Also decent. Winsor & Newton and Rowney artists acrylics are ok too.
Try Vallejo\'s Game Colour inks. Very nice and dry quite matte. Their Sepia is my new favourite. They also do a Black Green which is great for armour.
Coat D\'arms still make the original Citadel inks from when they came in dropper bottles. Also decent. Winsor & Newton and Rowney artists acrylics are ok too.
airhead
Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
It almost sounds like you are looking to use the inks for liners instead of washes?
A wash should be very dilute so that it settles into the creases and folds to create shadowing. If I use inks for washes (old GW inks or Reaper liners) I\'ll generally thin 20:1 (reducer/water to ink).
As a liner, I\'ll use them at anywhere from 5:1 to straight up.
A wash should be very dilute so that it settles into the creases and folds to create shadowing. If I use inks for washes (old GW inks or Reaper liners) I\'ll generally thin 20:1 (reducer/water to ink).
As a liner, I\'ll use them at anywhere from 5:1 to straight up.
GW Washes
I haven\'t used them in my serious projects yet, but I\'ve screwed around with them over white primered minis, and with a really light base coat, like GW\'s Ice Blue, Yellow and Shining Gold.
You\'re not supposed to add water to them at all.
You want to wash the whole surface first, letting it dry before going back over the recessed areas. That will get a good contrast, especially if you mix the Badab Black wash with whichever other color you\'re using as your second coat.
The Baal Red doesn\'t do anything to add contrast to red paint, sadly. It\'s better as a shading for yellows.
The Griffon Sepia is good over gold.
Purple looks cool over Ice Blue.
Keep in mind, I\'ve only experimented with these washes in fast and loose painting, and not in my higher quality painting yet.
I haven\'t used them in my serious projects yet, but I\'ve screwed around with them over white primered minis, and with a really light base coat, like GW\'s Ice Blue, Yellow and Shining Gold.
You\'re not supposed to add water to them at all.
You want to wash the whole surface first, letting it dry before going back over the recessed areas. That will get a good contrast, especially if you mix the Badab Black wash with whichever other color you\'re using as your second coat.
The Baal Red doesn\'t do anything to add contrast to red paint, sadly. It\'s better as a shading for yellows.
The Griffon Sepia is good over gold.
Purple looks cool over Ice Blue.
Keep in mind, I\'ve only experimented with these washes in fast and loose painting, and not in my higher quality painting yet.
I think you may be confusing \"thin\" with \"low pigment.\"
The new washes are actually thicker than their predescessors, but lower pigment than the inks you are probably used to because the inks are used to make washes, and the new washes are the washes already made, meaning that they are largely meant to be applied directly out of the pot.
If you like that very high pigmentation aspect of traditional inks, they are pretty easy to find, but if you try the washes at full strength over a couple of successive layers, I\'ve found them to be quite good.
That said, I agree that they should have made them an addition, rather than a replacement in their range.
The new washes are actually thicker than their predescessors, but lower pigment than the inks you are probably used to because the inks are used to make washes, and the new washes are the washes already made, meaning that they are largely meant to be applied directly out of the pot.
If you like that very high pigmentation aspect of traditional inks, they are pretty easy to find, but if you try the washes at full strength over a couple of successive layers, I\'ve found them to be quite good.
That said, I agree that they should have made them an addition, rather than a replacement in their range.
War Griffon
New member
Sam you should know by now that Logic and GW do not mix, the designers etc can say one thing but at the end of the day it is the money bag that has the final say in it all.
It is sad that they pulled the inks but at the same time there are plenty of other companies out there doing inks. I only used the yellow, brown and black inks to be honest and even then rarely.
It is sad that they pulled the inks but at the same time there are plenty of other companies out there doing inks. I only used the yellow, brown and black inks to be honest and even then rarely.
Dragonsreach
Super Moderator
Cost.
Cheaper to get the washes made in China and pay peanuts for Virtually No Labour costs and no enviromental impact charges in the manufacturing, unlike the shellac and lacquer in traditional inks.
Aliengod3
New member
Try using vallejo glaze medium. You add it to whatever color you like and you can get that contrast that you are looking for. Apply a couple of drops to your paint and it will give your paints a consistency and effect that can be similar to inks.
Here is a link that discusses the use of glaze medium: http://www.brushthralls.com/painting-techniques/glaze-medium-3.html
BTW, all the changes that are taking place in GW are irritating! They got rid of some of my favorite colors, they keep trying to make additions to their box sets to increase the price, and worst of all they charge $22 for a box of 10 Space Orks. They used to cost $30 for a box of 20!!!
You cannot charge $22 for 10 models especially when those 10 models are for a horde army, that is ludicrous. It should be $22 for 22 models, at least.
I used to work for one of the GW\'s in California and when I did I received a 60% discount on all of the minis I bought. Plus I was allowed to make bit orders for ten cents a gram (on metal minis). I ordered a 3000 point dwarf slayer army for $80, that would normally have cost about $500 (retail price for a box of 10 metal dwarf slayers is around $40). If GW can discount minis for their employees that much, and still make profit, then there is no reason why they need to find cheaper ways to make their products. Too many greedy big wigs in that company.
Here is a link that discusses the use of glaze medium: http://www.brushthralls.com/painting-techniques/glaze-medium-3.html
BTW, all the changes that are taking place in GW are irritating! They got rid of some of my favorite colors, they keep trying to make additions to their box sets to increase the price, and worst of all they charge $22 for a box of 10 Space Orks. They used to cost $30 for a box of 20!!!
You cannot charge $22 for 10 models especially when those 10 models are for a horde army, that is ludicrous. It should be $22 for 22 models, at least.
I used to work for one of the GW\'s in California and when I did I received a 60% discount on all of the minis I bought. Plus I was allowed to make bit orders for ten cents a gram (on metal minis). I ordered a 3000 point dwarf slayer army for $80, that would normally have cost about $500 (retail price for a box of 10 metal dwarf slayers is around $40). If GW can discount minis for their employees that much, and still make profit, then there is no reason why they need to find cheaper ways to make their products. Too many greedy big wigs in that company.
freakinacage
New member
yeah but that was a long time ago. those were \"the good old days\" *sigh*
