I'm interested in knowing what is the typical way of sculpting hard-edged, angular surfaces, like in battletech miniatures, 40k marines, warmachine warjacks, etc. I know for figures it's a lot of smoothing work to get it to look organic, but with all these hard edged items, we don't use the sculpting ball tools, right? So are there any tutorials for sculpting these kinds of things?
How to sculpt mechanical vs organic stuff?
- Thread starter miwashi
- Start date
I'm more than happy to give you the relevant information from the tutorials I've read, as one who is interested in the miniatures creation process. I admit I'm not an expert, and don't have any practical experience. All I know is that the choice of material could help you with the sculpting of flat surfaces. You might want to try Milliput, possibly mixed with green.
I think you can still find the PDFs of the tutorials mentioned still somewhere on the internet, but here are the relevant parts from them.
This excerpt is from Sculpting Basics, credit goes to Kevin Chenevert of LyonStudio.com.
"Secondary Sculpting Medium - Kneadatite brown expoxy ribbon. Used alone or mixed with green, it is used for sculpting sharper edges and machined looking parts. Sands well. Cures more brittle. Optionally, fine white Milliput can be used or mixed with green."
This excerpt is credited to Bob Lippman, called Sculpt Your Own figure (used to be in Total Power issue # 1 Warhammer Fanzine).
"While technically an epoxy putty, Milliput has an entirely different consistency from Kneadatite. Where Kneadatite is elastic, Milliput is clay-like. Where Kneadatite has a uniform consistency, by adding water to Milliput it can be either thick as clay or as thin as milk. Where Kneadatite is flexible, Milliput can be brittle. Finally, while Kneadatite can be cut with a knife, Milliput dries like stone and can be filed, sanded and drilled. there are times when nothing else will do. A good example is when you are trying to make something with inorganic angles and flat surfaces, like a spear tip."
Apparently you can also do it with Kneadatite, but green isn't really recommended for inorganic flat surfaces. However, Titanium Kneadatite apparently works.
Can't really find who wrote the article, but there's a Chronopia example by Excelsior Entertainment showing sculptor Matt Beauchamp doing a step by step mini of a Shadow Stalker.
"Taking a straight wire and bulking it up with Titanium Kneadatite, you will be able to get a jump start on the sword as well. Why a different kneadatite? Basically, the Titanium sets stronger and more rigidly and when filed (to create edges), it retains the shaping and holds the edge better than green."
From the looks of things, using Milliput (possibly mixed with green) and sanding the surfaces is the best way to get flat, angular surfaces. The green mixed in is I assume is to help retain the shape when the sculpt under goes the vulcanization process when making moulds, as green stuff has good heat and pressure properties. However, it's probably recommended that you still reinforce things like flat edged surfaces like swords and spears and surfaces with wire underneath. But then, like I said, I'm not a sculptor, so you might want to wait until an expert wades in and gives you the low-down on how it's done.
If I may ask, what are you trying to create? Seems to be some sort of robot or powered armour thing for a science fiction mini?
I think you can still find the PDFs of the tutorials mentioned still somewhere on the internet, but here are the relevant parts from them.
This excerpt is from Sculpting Basics, credit goes to Kevin Chenevert of LyonStudio.com.
"Secondary Sculpting Medium - Kneadatite brown expoxy ribbon. Used alone or mixed with green, it is used for sculpting sharper edges and machined looking parts. Sands well. Cures more brittle. Optionally, fine white Milliput can be used or mixed with green."
This excerpt is credited to Bob Lippman, called Sculpt Your Own figure (used to be in Total Power issue # 1 Warhammer Fanzine).
"While technically an epoxy putty, Milliput has an entirely different consistency from Kneadatite. Where Kneadatite is elastic, Milliput is clay-like. Where Kneadatite has a uniform consistency, by adding water to Milliput it can be either thick as clay or as thin as milk. Where Kneadatite is flexible, Milliput can be brittle. Finally, while Kneadatite can be cut with a knife, Milliput dries like stone and can be filed, sanded and drilled. there are times when nothing else will do. A good example is when you are trying to make something with inorganic angles and flat surfaces, like a spear tip."
Apparently you can also do it with Kneadatite, but green isn't really recommended for inorganic flat surfaces. However, Titanium Kneadatite apparently works.
Can't really find who wrote the article, but there's a Chronopia example by Excelsior Entertainment showing sculptor Matt Beauchamp doing a step by step mini of a Shadow Stalker.
"Taking a straight wire and bulking it up with Titanium Kneadatite, you will be able to get a jump start on the sword as well. Why a different kneadatite? Basically, the Titanium sets stronger and more rigidly and when filed (to create edges), it retains the shaping and holds the edge better than green."
From the looks of things, using Milliput (possibly mixed with green) and sanding the surfaces is the best way to get flat, angular surfaces. The green mixed in is I assume is to help retain the shape when the sculpt under goes the vulcanization process when making moulds, as green stuff has good heat and pressure properties. However, it's probably recommended that you still reinforce things like flat edged surfaces like swords and spears and surfaces with wire underneath. But then, like I said, I'm not a sculptor, so you might want to wait until an expert wades in and gives you the low-down on how it's done.
If I may ask, what are you trying to create? Seems to be some sort of robot or powered armour thing for a science fiction mini?
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Thanks for the help, I'm not trying to make anything in particular now, but I am working on 54mm figures, and was wondering how to handle things like ribbons, weapons, etc. when I get to them eventually. I'll post some pics when I have more progress. I'll be googling for stuff based in what you've provided above... thanks a lot!
Well, I'm certainly not going to blow your trumpet! Besides, you cheat Mr destructive sculpting you. ;P
When working with pure green stuff, often the only thing you have to do when wanting to make sharp edges and flat surfaces is just to wait a bit longer before shaping the green stuff and then sand down whatever remaining irregularities you get.
The usually best and probably safest way though is to do like Cassar here, when making inorganic shapes just let the putty dry and then cut/carve/sand it into shape.
dogfacedboy uk1
New member
LOL, Cassar, you have pretty good reason to blow that trumpet mate dont worry.
Miwashi - check Cassars WIP thread, pick up plenty of tips. Also, I believe it was Gigantic Dark who also made a fantastic space marine from scratch. Go to to the pic below to see a fantastic piece. I think there is a WIP for it, but you will have to find that for yourself!
http://www.coolminiornot.com/218197
dfb
freakinacage
New member
i find a gs/magic sculp mix works wonders. get it about right and leave for a bit, then you can sharpen up the edges when mostly cured. when finished, it carves and sands well
Well, there you go! Advice from some experts! Looks like I was wrong, and you can do quite well with pure GS alone, or even use magic sculp. But then again, I'm an armchair theorist, not a sculptor. ^_^;; Obviously there will be a lot of ways to do this, so just go with whatever method or material suits you and helps achieve the effect you're looking for.
P.S. I have to admit, there's some nice work done from the people up above!
Thanks for all the help. Maybe another way to go about this would be to get input regarding specific examples?
Lets take a lot at this beautiful piece I found on another forum:
View attachment 5574
Found here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/339284.page
See the raised edges along the borders of the shield? I can sculpt a flat shield easily, but how are those edges done? If I roll out a ribbon and cut it into a long straight piece, I have great difficulty getting the edges to remain uniformly thick after I push and try to get it to conform to the shield edge.
In addition, how would tiny filigree patterns, like on the right side shield, be done?
Lets take a lot at this beautiful piece I found on another forum:
View attachment 5574
Found here: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/339284.page
See the raised edges along the borders of the shield? I can sculpt a flat shield easily, but how are those edges done? If I roll out a ribbon and cut it into a long straight piece, I have great difficulty getting the edges to remain uniformly thick after I push and try to get it to conform to the shield edge.
In addition, how would tiny filigree patterns, like on the right side shield, be done?
Now, Scibors stuff is a bit different from "normal sculpting", even though he does that very good as well. That specific style is basically what defines his stuff, he doesn't sculpt it as such, he sculpts a mould, either physically or digitally and then press mould objects to give them those sharp edges. You can read more on his site here:
http://www.sciborminiatures.com/
Here's the specific article.
http://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571
http://www.sciborminiatures.com/
Here's the specific article.
http://www.sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571
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QuietiManes
New member
Scibor has some tutorials worth looking at. One to answer how he does it for the above question:
http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571
http://sciborminiatures.com/en_,sculpting.php?id=571
QuietiManes
New member
Doh. Chrome's ninja fast.
Something else I've been wondering is how fingers are sculpted in 54mm or 28mm scale. I use super sculpey and it is too soft. I've added a bit of sculpey to the wrist and when I try to use a knife to cut the fingers in the whole mass deforms. When I try to shape the fingers with a tool the finger stumps also deform and I just can't get them to hold their shape enough to shape them into fingers.
Einion
New member
I wouldn't suggest doing that with SS, but you can try mixing it with other polymer clays that are firmer to reduce the amount of 'give' for this kind of thing (or use them instead). You could also try roughly shaping the hand and popping it into the fridge before trying final shaping as it's stiffer when cold.
Einion
Einion
freakinacage
New member
hands:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcwKaTTdzBk&feature=player_embedded
see more of his vids to the right to explain
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TcwKaTTdzBk&feature=player_embedded
see more of his vids to the right to explain
