How to achieve gradiented shading technique? Example of problem within.

jamsessionein

New member
Hey guys.

I was skimming my Forces of Warmachine: Khador book... inside there, they have a couple nice painting tutorials, but I'm having some trouble grasping some of the concepts within, so I though I'd bring my questions here.

butchershading.jpg


The image on the left is the base coat. Step 2, which is the image on the right, is described thus:

"Use Sanguine Base for the first layer of shading. Apply the paint thin and blend it into the recesses and shadows".

This is all very well and good, but I really have no idea how to properly execute that. In the past, every time I've tried to achieve a gradienting effect like this on a model, but it always either ends up too heavy-handed (meaning, a blob of color with a clear edge between the 'shade' color and the brighter base color), or it pools strangely and dries unevenly. The closest thing I've found to simulate this effect might be Citadel's washes, but when you brush that stuff on, you can clearly see the edge or boundary between "area that got washed" and "area that did not get washed".

I'm hoping to get some advice as to proper shading technique so I could duplicate something like the above. I've tried feathering paints out with a wet brush, but the problem I always have is that as I introduce even a tiny bit of water to the paint, it starts to run and get a bit out of hand, and I have trouble controlling it.

Anyone have sage advice?

Note that I'm not looking to actually paint red on the models I'm working on, I'm doing a white color that I need to shade with grey, but my question is more about the technique than the particular colors.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
. I've tried feathering paints out with a wet brush, but the problem I always have is that as I introduce even a tiny bit of water to the paint, it starts to run and get a bit out of hand, and I have trouble controlling it.

Anyone have sage advice?
#
Words of sagacity No, sorry all out of those.

However have you tried thinning the paints until they are 90% water, then taking a small amount on the brush and touching the side of said brush to a piece of kitchen towel to absorb the excess fluid.
This allows better control of the "paint" (also sometimes refered to as juice, glazing or tincture), you'll need to use a brush in good condition with a decent point and preferably a good quality one as well.
It may take several attempts to get the effect but the picture you used as an example indicates to me that the shadow was a gradual build up not a "One Shot" covers all effect.
 

Shawn R. L.

New member
Side loading is the technique of loading your brush with paint on one side, and water (or water substitute) on the opposite side. When blended, the paint on the brush will graduate smoothly from full strength on the side the paint was loaded to water only on the opposite edge.
 

Einion

New member
I suspect that a lot of your issues are with having too much paint on the brush, it's a very common problem, so the thing to bear in mind is very dilute paint doesn't have to equal very wet brush.

This is the essential difference between a wash and a glaze - they can be exactly the same mixture, just as dilute, but for a wash you flood it on and for a glaze you lay in on thinly, in a controlled manner, using a brush that's merely damp.

You need to aim for just enough of the mix on the brush. How much that is is the thing you get to recognise with practice and experience; think damp not wet and that should help.

Einion
 

Wicksy

New member
Yeah man, i feel your pain. I had terrible trouble with too much paint on the brush. It does tend to go everywhere. I was told that you should be able to apply a single layer and watch it dry infront of your eyes. Thats about the right amount of paint on the brush. Dunno how true that is exactly but it seems to be working for me at the moment.
 

Hendarion

New member
Thats about the right amount of paint on the brush. Dunno how true that is exactly (...)
Its damn true. My layers need about 0.5-2 seconds to dry. And if you manage to get them drying that fast, you can be sure you don't have too much color on your brush, because else it would take way longer to dry. At least for blending. For base-coating you really need plenty of color.
 

Mercius

New member
This technique is the hardest thing I have learned so far, it take a lot of patience...something I am in short supply of.
 

jamsessionein

New member
Its damn true. My layers need about 0.5-2 seconds to dry. And if you manage to get them drying that fast, you can be sure you don't have too much color on your brush, because else it would take way longer to dry. At least for blending. For base-coating you really need plenty of color.

And you guys get it to work like that with just water? It seems any acrylic blending medium I add in to try and thin the paints out and make them flow better also has the side effect of making the paint take ten times longer to dry.
 

Mercius

New member
The blending tutorial linked above by Olliekickflip does a grand job explaining painting with really thinned paints...there is an article by Sebastian Archer on Ozpainters as well that is rather good, but I can't seem to find the link....maybe someone on here can link it for you.
 

Hendarion

New member
And you guys get it to work like that with just water? It seems any acrylic blending medium I add in to try and thin the paints out and make them flow better also has the side effect of making the paint take ten times longer to dry.
Although the color is thin, you can get it drying that fast. If you don't manage, then it means you have too much color on your brush. Use a kitchen towel or some normal paper to get rid of it. I prefer paper, because with big strokes on it, I can control how much color I remove from the brush and get a preview of how thin the color will be on the model. If its too thick, I keep painting the paper. It seams like a waste of paint, but since you really should load the brush only with a minimum of color, you could paint years that way without getting the pot empty. In fact some of my pots are like 15 years old and I should think of replacing them just because the components seam to fall apart over time.
And yea, I'm using water. Plain water. Some ppl will tell you to use distilled to avoid edges from chalk and I actually do fear that too sometimes, but so far I've never seen that happening. I guess the pigments are just stronger than the amount of chalk. Although I can only speak about the water in my area (german water is more or less chalky though, austria would be pimp). I'm using water, because my colors are water-based and I have no idea how flow aids or matte medium could affect the drying speed.
 
Last edited:

Hendarion

New member
Aaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhh!!!!111oneoneone
That's really wet blending how its originally ment to be.

But DAMN YOU! Don't ever show me again such a video where that guy does in ~1h what I do in about 50! That is pure frustration.
 

Einion

New member
jamsessionein said:
Hendarion said:
My layers need about 0.5-2 seconds to dry.
And you guys get it to work like that with just water?
In case it's not clear, that would be like for single strokes of the brush.

Humidity (and temp) will play a part in how fast even a damp swipe will dry - in the summer it might only take a second or two, but in the winter here it could easily take three or four times longer.

Also the absorbency of the primer and undercoat paint make some difference.

jamsessionein said:
It seems any acrylic blending medium I add in to try and thin the paints out and make them flow better also has the side effect of making the paint take ten times longer to dry.
Many blending mediums have retarders in them to deliberately slow drying, which aids blending.

If your paint is drying too slowly don't be afraid to keep a hairdryer on hand to speed-dry so you can continue painting; doesn't harm the paint any.

Einion
 
Back To Top
Top