Fixing mistakes on gradients

[GTTechnics]

As I shift my painting procedure to doing more assembly prior to painting, I'm finding that I have more problems with stray paint getting into areas that they shouldn't be in. Normally it's not a big deal, but when I get a dab on a gradient created by airbrush or glazing, a small mistake turns into a headache. If I see the mistake as I do it, I normally load up the brush with water and flood it out, but once it dries things get a bit more complicated.

I've heard that some people lay down regular varnish coats and then use mineral spirits like an eraser, but I haven't been bold enough to try this technique yet. I've tried just glazing the mistake out, but when it's a dark spot on a light gradient this can take forever. The other option of course, is to paint a large section the base color and start over. How do you guys typically handle this kind of thing? Any tricks or tips? If you have a special technique for minimizing mistakes like this, I 'd be interested in that as well. I mount my models on cork for handling, but even then I find that I have to handle the model itself on finer details, and sometime this too can lead to a paint smudge if I'm not careful.

 

[Zab]

I like the rathcore mini holder for handling the mini, though you can make your own with similar materials. Check out crackpot's thread as he has a few on his latest project mounted on with a wire armature on a piece of cork. Some masking tape over areas that surround hard to reach places helps or silly putty too if you are worried about the tape pulling up paint. Just because you aren't spraying doesn't mean masking won't help

 

[GTTechnics]

I've though about that model holder, but I've hesitated sue to the foreign availability and the fact that I tend to paint squads at a time. The insert does look easily removable, so maybe I could just swap them out a lot.

Has anyone used the solvent as eraser method I mentioned above? I've only heard of it in passing on AFV scale model websites, but info is scarce.

 

[MAXXxxx]

if you are painting squads then the holder is not optimal. (except if you buy about 10 of them to hold them in their places)

solvent (white spirit) as 'eraser' : works with oils and such, not really with acrylics. At best it makes the situation worse as if enough is used it damages the acryl layer, but not in a good way.
But a similar effect can be achived with the Vallejo Airbrush Cleaner (seen it on one of M.i.G.'s DVDs). I's strong enough to remove paint, but not enough to eat through dried or multiple layers. But it's really useful only if used in a few hours after paint application, if the acryl is full cured, then it doesn't help. It's wonderful for pin-washes and fast corrections (if done gently enough it can remove unneeded paint without hurting the layer beneath even if there is no varnish between them).

Another method that Jarhead showed in one of the painting classes: use a toothpick, wet it so it's not dry, then gently try to remove the paint with it. It can take a long time and you have to be careful as hell, but it work even on older, cured paints. Because of the size of the end of a toothpick, it's mostly usable on small dots of paint, that are unneeded, not really helpful for larger spills and such.