Blackadder's Refurbishment of Derelict FW Resin Baneblades Thread.................

[Blackadder]

Years ago when my son first acquainted me with the Warhammer phenomenon he showed me a catalog of the FW products. Having been in the Service I had an awe of the mechanized armour although even then I knew


"A moving foxhole attracts the eye."

Anyway I fell in love with the anachronistic clanking abomination known as the Baneblade Super-heavy Tank. Not just the Baneblade but the Lucius Pattern version to be precise with looks even more archaic than the Mars Pattern.


Reading the spec's on this behemoth Gad 316 tonnes! 13.5 metres long 6.3 metres high that's literally as big as my house was at that time.


Then and there I resolved to get one of those vehicles but the FW price was prohibitive. What to do? well there was ebay, you can find anything for sale on ebay so I gave that a try.........


After a few days a Lucius Baneblade showed up.............


http://i.imgur.com/2cM66kT.jpg

and I watched it count down the days to the final few seconds and at the last moment I dumped in my bid. Walla (sic) I won the bid! I forgot what I paid for it but I'm sure it was way too much but still a heck of a lot cheaper than a new one from Forge World..........


Watching the post regularly it ultimately arrived; Whoa what a piece of junk! It looked even worse than it appeared in the ebay picture Caveat emptor!


http://i.imgur.com/NLcS2Az.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/sMkgoDh.jpg

of course I knew that the thing was assembled badly but I was pretty sure I could restore it to a semblance of its potential glory.​

 

[Meph]

Wow... good luck on the cleanup mate!

 

[TrystanGST]

I wonder how much of the original resin will be left when BA here is done. We all know of his eye for detail and his love of styrene.

 

[Blackadder]

Since I could little improve of the perfection of the Lucius Baneblade (FW) I restricted my styrene addiction and only repaired and modified that which was necessary.


FW models in my experience require a lot of TLC and reconstruction even when new so the time and effort savings between a 'New' and 'Refurbished' is about equal.


Another thing I found out about the older resin models is in spite of the brittleness of the material it can take a surprising degree of prying with knives and chisels to disassemble the pieces and not shatter. The newer resin models use a softer mix and has a tendency to tear when subjected to stress.


After disassembling the entire model I scraped every last bit of paint and glue from the pieces. A regular kitchen paring knife I found was the best tool to do this and a #11 Xacto blade and a pin vise with micro bit drill for those hard to reach places.


http://i.imgur.com/UOe7pUQ.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Kl8vF5i.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/CBQsdA1

http://i.imgur.com/nEF9P5h.jpg

In about a week I had the model down to the bare resin.


Note if you will the colour of the resin. It was almost white in hue; a much harder, brittle material than current FW resin.

 

[Dragonsreach]

Hmmmmn, I'm wondering if you've got the genuine FW thing there or a "Pop-off" copy out of the growing Eastern economy?

 

[Blackadder]

I have a response from a reliable source confirming the original FW Baneblades were of this whitish brittle resin. From what I understand Eastern knockoffs weren't available prior to 2003 when this model was fabricated.

 

[Demihuman]

You've got a good start on a winter camo paintjob there.

 

[Blackadder]

I'd better post some of the primed images so I'm not branded a total cretin. I took extreme care not to damage the model anymore than it already was when received. I very much wanted to have as near a 'cherry' Lucius Baneblade as possible when finished. I found that Krylon gray sandable primer is ideal for a base coat. Thin, opaque and fast drying it is (was) the best paint on the market. The dirty little engineers and PR people got to listening to too many would be female crafters and redesigned the nozzle so you can't get a decent spray pattern anymore. I have one can of it left and I'm saving it for my Warhound.

Okay this is more than a "look what I did" thread so a bit of explanation is in order. There were a few broken details on the model if you look at the image in the reply above you will see the left tow lug was missing from the front bumper and I replaced it with a styrene lug, no biggy there. The wire conduit to the headlights was broken off so I twisted some 0.025" wire to replace it.

The Search light http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2009/5/26/0c54bd24b3fb0e60e47c0dbfcae701af_6825.jpg was broke and I drilled a 0.025 wire drill hole in both ends and internally splinted the stanchion.

 

[Bloodhowl]

Thin, opaque and fast drying it is (was) the best paint on the market. The dirty little engineers and PR people got to listening to too many would be female crafters and redesigned the nozzle so you can't get a decent spray pattern anymore. I have one can of it left and I'm saving it for my Warhound.

Can't you just pull the good spray nozzle off the can once it's spent, and stick it on a can that has a bad spray nozzle?

 

[Meph]

Aye, make McGuyver proud!

 

[Canny]

looking forward to following this thread

 

[Blackadder]

Can't you just pull the good spray nozzle off the can once it's spent, and stick it on a can that has a bad spray nozzle?

Jeez, why didn't I think of that??????????????? You have little regard for the Blackadder were I to be flummoxed by such a simple fix. Not the manufacturers in their infinite stupidity have redesigned the valve stem as well whereas the original valve is a gozinta 'male' the new valve is a gozintee 'female' (Can Blackadder get such an allusion passed the censors?)

Never fear there are still so decent primers with proper valves on the market. The Kmart (Sears) house brand and the Walmart generic brand still have the half century old-style and infinitely better valve on their equally decent primer albeit not 'sandable'.

FYI virtually all McGuyver's miracle contrivances would not work in real life.

 

[Blackadder]

I'd better post some of the primed images so I'm not branded a total cretin. I took extreme care not to damage the model anymore than it already was when received. I very much wanted to have as near a 'cherry' Lucius Baneblade as possible when finished. I found that Krylon gray sandable primer is ideal for a base coat. Thin, opaque and fast drying it is (was) the best paint on the market. The dirty little engineers and PR people got to listening to too many would be female crafters and redesigned the nozzle so you can't get a decent spray pattern anymore. I have one can of it left and I'm saving it for my Warhound.


http://i.imgur.com/c2vsVM1.jpg

Okay this is more than a "look what I did" thread so a bit of explanation is in order. There were a few broken details on the model if you look at the image in the reply above you will see the left tow lug was missing from the front bumper and I replaced it with a styrene lug, no biggy there. The wire conduit to the headlights was broken off so I twisted some 0.025" wire to replace it.


http://i.imgur.com/ju4F5oP.jpg

The Search light was broke and I drilled a 0.025 wire drill hole in both ends and internally splinted the stanchion.


http://i.imgur.com/re8w8Am.jpg

 

[Bloodhowl]

Jeez, why didn't I think of that??????????????? You have little regard for the Blackadder were I to be flummoxed by such a simple fix. Not the manufacturers in their infinite stupidity have redesigned the valve stem as well whereas the original valve is a gozinta 'male' the new valve is a gozintee 'female' (Can Blackadder get such an allusion passed the censors?)

NO. Because they make both male caps and female caps. So, logically, there must be other sprays that would have a nozzle that provides you the proper spray pattern and fit to your primer that you could cannibalize and use. :sinister: You can even buy them on eBay: http://www.ebay.com/bhp/spray-paint-nozzles. Now, how you would test them to determine the spray pattern before buying is probably a separate thread.

Carry on!

 

[Blackadder]

There now it pays to advertise my stupidity on these forums. I was not aware that you can buy different cap valves for spray paint there is even a market in them for graffiti (ahm!) artists. Alas in a cursory glance at the valves available I see none that will serve but you did open an area of exploration...............

Thank you,

 

[Blackadder]

Treads and bogies


Getting the treads and bogies to fit just right is the hardest part of building this model. I had to sand down the bogie bases and drive and steering bases to get the treads to make the curves properly.

http://i.imgur.com/ud95R4v.jpg

[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The diameter of the wheels even the round ones vary by as much as a millimeter so judicious scrapping brought them to a reasonably homogeneous size.[/FONT]


http://i.imgur.com/ZMjcEAu.jpg[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

[/FONT]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Clamping and liberal use of heavy duty gumbands should be employed to mate the treads to the drive wheel and bogies, don't be afraid to cut and file hidden areas that louse up the overall run of the treads.[/FONT]


http://i.imgur.com/gXzeJGl.jpg

[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Note how the treads lie almost perfectly in the track grooves of the bogies each segment just touching the arc of the wheel run. This takes a lot of cutting, filing, and clamping to achieve but is well worth the effort. The gaps between the track segments are all but invisible even in this much abused model so take your time and do it right.[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
http://i.imgur.com/xGSfKmY.jpg[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]

[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]The two idler runs installed much as FW intended; no excessive gaps each tread rounding the idler as if it were on a real tank. Maybe fifteen to twenty minutes to do the job correctly but so much more gratifying when the model is complete. [/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]
[FONT=Tahoma, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]
[/FONT]

 

[Blackadder]

This was one of the first Baneblades so I am told and moulded of an almost white resin which was extremely brittle compared to the FW resin used today. The model in question was purchased 10 years ago and refurbished a matter of weeks after received.


At that time I had not even considered posting on forums as I was merely a tyro at modeling so I didn't take a whole lot of pictures of the rebuild.


Before I had even finished my son had it on a battle board:

Here it is still in unwashed Primer:

 

[Blackadder]

Camouflaged with Viscus Gunky Gunk:



Heres a poor specimen that I started on last week. I soaked the entire tank on a bucket of simple green for a few days but the paint wouldn't budge. After soaking for a week I finally managed to clean down to the bare resin. Whatever glue the original owner used it resists even chisels and utility blades.


http://i.imgur.com/aIAlzoe.jpg

After cleaning the upper hull I remembered, "Hey, I gotta take pictures."


Everything was painted with a thick coat of spray enamel that defied even soaking in Simple Green.


http://i.imgur.com/JD9mBn7.jpg

Once I get done with this post I'm going to try prying the track blocks out of the hull.


This tank will pose an additional challenge in that the Main Turret is missing. No, that's a Leman Russ Mars Alpha Pattern Turret.


I also have to scratch a Lascannon barrel.

 

[Blackadder]

Plastic Surgery:

Well resin surgery but you get the idea. I wondered why the treads were so butchered on this tank, after I cleaned most of the gunk off I found/realized the bogies were installed backwards so the treads wouldn't fit as moulded by Forge World. I cleaned most bogies to demonstrate how I remove stubborn glued on parts; a tried and true method that works well for me* and only require the tools you see in the image below:


http://i.imgur.com/Gy656E0.jpg

*Try this method first on something you don't care too much for and wear safety glasses (I had to add that last bit so yer mums don't write me nasty letters)


Find a likely space between the two pieces to be separated and insert your chisel.at an angle that will cause stress to the glue joint. Then a sharp rap with a light hammer (one should do it) and the bogie is separated.


http://i.imgur.com/s8WE4dz.jpg

Once you get the hang of it the bits are removed faster than I typed this sentence.


http://i.imgur.com/2f5a0EJ.jpg

Next the hard part, removing the tread block.................

 

[Blackadder]

The Real Test:


The real test of this method is removing the tread block. The block rests on a thin ledge in the tread well and prying can easily tear the thin outer fender wall. I have already separated the inner edge from the block as that area of the hull is more durable and less likely to be seen if damage occurs from the surgery. It would be a good idea to practice your technique on the inner seam first.


http://i.imgur.com/nX4FaQ9.jpg

I am comfortable with my method so I'll demonstrate on the outer seam.


Insert your chisel between the block and the wall and tap the glue joint as far down as the chisel blade will allow. Fortunately my blade was just long enough to sever the joint before the blade bottomed out. BTW I recommend holding the handle but I am not doing so just for clarity in the picture.


http://i.imgur.com/M0hck9S.jpg

Continue along the seam until the entire edge is free.


One thing you can say about amateur builders; they sure use a lot of glue. A couple of strategic glue tacks would have been sufficient but this guy was 'fastening' for the ages.


http://i.imgur.com/oYVKCds.jpg

Alls well that ends well as they say so the removal was a success so now I can concentrate on removing the rest of the paint and rebuilding the missing and broken pieces.


http://i.imgur.com/EdeUByz.jpg

Thanks to all who made the solvent suggestions I appreciate the input.