Flagship Figures
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You can view the page at http://www.coolminiornot.com/articles/content.php?5459-how-to-paint-a-vindicator-(first-article)
Article: How to paint a vindicator
- Thread starter Flagship Figures
- Start date
Spongeboss Uru
New member
Im sorry but vindicator at photo looks not so good painted. Paintjob looks pretty sleasy, especially metallics.
Also bolters not drilled and I see a mold line at cannon.
About article: it must include step-by step photos, IMHO.
Sorry about my crticism and awful english.
Also bolters not drilled and I see a mold line at cannon.
About article: it must include step-by step photos, IMHO.
Sorry about my crticism and awful english.
Flagship Figures
New member
Yeah, fair enough. I think the flash is partly to blame - I must really get a better lighting set-up. Thought the 'sleaziness' of which you speak is somewhat intentional. It is meant to be oily and dirty. Anyways, thanks for the comment.
Flagship Figures
New member
Yeah, I have no illusions about it being better than that. It is intended more for table-top gamers than for real dedicated painters.
freakinacage
New member
a good way to paint the chips and scratches is to use a piece of torn off blister foam. nice and ragged. it also pays to observe where wear and tear might occur (ie around edges of hatches etc) rather than placing it seemingly randomly. little things like this can make a massive difference
RedStickStudio
New member
While I realize this article was posted last year, I feel the need to point a few things out.
1. Don't "cut out" the models when you're creating images to show examples of your work, or examples of the painting if you are attempting to write a how to. This gives a horrible white line around the model, and makes it look very shoddy. Try to work through, use proper lighting/lightbox, and a good background to take the photos as a solid item, rather than poorly cropping them out and adding them to a different background. Any of the images I've looked at, because of the cutting out and subsequent white line about the model make it very hard to see all the detail work close to the edge, and really make the quality degrade because of it.
2. You need to add far more pictures, and explain this "how to" quite a bit better than you choose to do. I am a seasoned painter, yet when reading through your article, because you don't even give a hint of how it should look through areas you add multiple steps, there's a final product, and some brief bits of information saying, repeat this a few times and it should look right. This could have been a better article if you had explained the steps in depth more, and added a lot more images, and proper ones that show close up details to explain what you're telling someone to do, not white line edged ones that make it exceedingly difficult to determine what's going on in the image.
3. Mould line removal...It's just a must especially if you want to show professionalism for examples of your work as a commission painter. I want people who wish to see examples of my work focus on the quality of the work, not the distractions caused by the mould lines, channels, sprue joins, and so forth.
4. While I appreciate the attempt to show how to make weathered chips, doing it with paint program images doesn't help much, when trying to show how it would look on a model. Examples on a model would be far better.
5. I recommend a high quality camera to do your shots (300dpi resolution and at least 12mp) as well as printing out a good, solid background colour. Posssibly a cloud style, as these images are fairly easy to find on the internet. It will help you a great deal if your works look very consistent in quality, both model painting and the photography. Macro mode on the camera is a must.
6. Barrels drilled out, vindicator cannon filed flush...etc. It's not huge things, but the little things that really make a model stand out.
1. Don't "cut out" the models when you're creating images to show examples of your work, or examples of the painting if you are attempting to write a how to. This gives a horrible white line around the model, and makes it look very shoddy. Try to work through, use proper lighting/lightbox, and a good background to take the photos as a solid item, rather than poorly cropping them out and adding them to a different background. Any of the images I've looked at, because of the cutting out and subsequent white line about the model make it very hard to see all the detail work close to the edge, and really make the quality degrade because of it.
2. You need to add far more pictures, and explain this "how to" quite a bit better than you choose to do. I am a seasoned painter, yet when reading through your article, because you don't even give a hint of how it should look through areas you add multiple steps, there's a final product, and some brief bits of information saying, repeat this a few times and it should look right. This could have been a better article if you had explained the steps in depth more, and added a lot more images, and proper ones that show close up details to explain what you're telling someone to do, not white line edged ones that make it exceedingly difficult to determine what's going on in the image.
3. Mould line removal...It's just a must especially if you want to show professionalism for examples of your work as a commission painter. I want people who wish to see examples of my work focus on the quality of the work, not the distractions caused by the mould lines, channels, sprue joins, and so forth.
4. While I appreciate the attempt to show how to make weathered chips, doing it with paint program images doesn't help much, when trying to show how it would look on a model. Examples on a model would be far better.
5. I recommend a high quality camera to do your shots (300dpi resolution and at least 12mp) as well as printing out a good, solid background colour. Posssibly a cloud style, as these images are fairly easy to find on the internet. It will help you a great deal if your works look very consistent in quality, both model painting and the photography. Macro mode on the camera is a must.
6. Barrels drilled out, vindicator cannon filed flush...etc. It's not huge things, but the little things that really make a model stand out.
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