Army Painter Anti-Shire

[Dribble Joy]

Has anyone else had any problems with this cracking the paint layer underneath?

I usually give my models a Satin Varnish (GW's Purity Seal) after I've finished a model, and then a layer of anti-shine.

I recently finished a model I had spent quite a lot of time on and due to the use of a lot of medium (primarily the Vallejo thinner medium and some Daler-Rowney matt medium), it was already quite shiny. I skipped the satin varnish and went straight to the anti-shine.
I come back later and there are several large cracks across the flatter areas of the model.
It was mainly a test-piece for another model, but still... kinda grumpy.

The macro on my camera is pretty bad (the camera isn't exactly brilliant anyway), but you can just about make them out in this shot. I'll see if I can get a better image later.

Just above the knee and on the thigh. I 'attempted' to fix it with some paint, but now as you can see in the pic, there's a noticeable line across and still a crack visible.
Model pics:
1.
2.

P.S.
What would be the best way to avoid shininess in the first place?

 

[MightyChad]

My problem was that it pent all grainy and dusty, so I am done with spray varnish period.. I never had trouble with Testors, but when you sepend a ton of time on a mini, it pays to be cautious. Brush on only for me.

As for minimizing shine, I am unsure, I use Matte medium to thin and haven't had problems with any glossiness. Do you add water to the medium when mixing?

 

[Dribble Joy]

No. Usually just paint and medium.

Which dullcoat/anti-shine/matt varnishes would you recommend?

 

[MightyChad]

Try adding water to your Matte medium. I use an empty dropper bottle with watered down matte medium, and that has worked fine for me.

And I use Vallejo brush on varnishes now, they come in Matte, Satin, and Gloss. They are cheaper than the spray, but obviously a smaller amount. However, since it is brush on, you can easily control the amount you use, so I think it will be a better value. I have heard that some folks use it through an airbrush, but I have never done that. Testors Dull Coat is probably the best, but it can be difficult to get in some countries. Those are the only varnishes I have any good experiences with. I am sure others can give you more names.

 

[Dribble Joy]

Hmm... I have the Vallejo matt varnish, but I've found it's not so good at dulling shine. I might try the watered matt medium.

 

[marjedi]

Tried this twice. The first time it went allright....second time the model turned out all textured.

So i stopped using it and went over to airbrushed varnish

 

[Routaporsas]

God damn those anti-Shire people from the army painter :curse!: Why don't they leave poor Hobbits alone.



Sorry...just your heading...Ahem..to the actual point. I would have actually blamed your Purity seal spray (I assume its spray you ment), but then you said you skipped this phase....Hmmm weird. You see, I had the very same cracking problem with Purity seal spray back in the days when I painted mostly gaming pieces. When it dried, I cracked very easily. I made several tests with different cans, and the result was just the same. Only few times I managed to spray so thin layer, that it didn't crack. But I also decided to stop using it. It is easier to use brush on varnish for I have had no problems with Vallejo brush on varnishes. And it seems that GWs brush on 'ardcoat is also behaving like it should. No cracking there (just checked this test piece I varnished couple years ago).

Sad to hear that the anti shine can do this as well :sad: Perhaps some of those spray varnishes are just cr@p and really difficult to control in order to get a good result. I also tested Vallejo Matt varnish spray, and so far one test ogre and two test pieces I made are ok. They were varnished like couple of years ago. Too bad their matt varnish just isn't that matt.

Vallejo matt medium has also worked well when added to shiny inks etc. I mainly use it with inks. For diluting paints I use just water. Nothing else.