An idea for basecoating a Blood Angel mini

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-Ice

New member
I was just wondering if anyone has tried basecoating a Blood Angel mini (or any other such mini) by doing the black areas first? I was thinking what if I were to paint the black areas first (back of knee, groin, wrists, elbows, and maybe the eyes) and then slap on the red basecoat?

At the very least, that would save me from having to basecoat red, paint black areas, cleanup with red... this method would be to basecoat black, then basecoat red at the same time clean up around the black areas. Thoughts?
 
T

Torn blue sky

New member
Different people use different coloured primers for different reasons. White is easier to keep a mini bright, especially painting yellows. Black will help make it darker, some even use grey to get more of a middle of the road start for the way colours come out. The only way you'll really be able to tell what's for you is by experimenting really. Be warned though, that using black will take a bit longer to get the colours as bright as you'd like them with more coats.
 
I

-Ice

New member
freakinacage said:
so you'll be touching up red on black rather than black on red?
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Kinda. It's just that when I put on the black areas like behind the knee, I usually get a bit of black into an area I don't want it to be, so I "erase" it with layers of the basecoat mix. I was thinking if I put black on first, then erase the mistakes, it at least saves me from having to put the red basecoat, thus eliminating one step by combining them (basecoat and cleanup in one go).
 
Shellshock

Shellshock

New member
Depends, it's as long as it's short really as your touching up anyway. If you want a quick tip to do behind the knees - paint it lightish grey instead of black, then thin down some black so it's a wash, probly about 4:1 water to paint and give the grey a good covering, it'll remain fluid long enough to take a clean brush and soak up the black that goes where you don't want it, or if it does dry it won't take nearly as much paint to correct it, quick, clean and simple.

kneew.jpg
 
M

Mourner

New member
have you tried basecoating all the areas on the mini in one go?

simply put, take out all your basecoats and paints all the areas on the mini with their base color.
after this, clean up anything that needs cleaning up.
after that, start painting...

advantages are:
you can more easily imagine the final result, all the colors are in place

any clean-up is with a base color, and doesn't need any special attention

Disadvantage:
you will have to clean up later on, no matter how neat you paint...
only thing you can do about that is brush control (again, this seems to be haunting you :p)
 
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IdofEntity

New member
Mourner has the right of it.

If you do have to go back and basecoat a section black though (I've done it when I was completely unsatisfied with a particular look, but it was small enough not to justify stripping it) use a thinned out black. Significantly thinned out. I put on five layers of this thinned out black, got wonderful coverage, and when I accidentally got a bit of paint where I didn't mean to it was easy enough to fix by placing a thinned out layer over the mistake.

Be careful with yellow and pink though. Even the slightest bit of black paint can ruin those, and correcting it takes more than one coat.
 
I

-Ice

New member
Yeah, I think I'll dilute the black a bit more.

Mourner, I used to paint the entire marine a basecoat red, then just go over the black areas with black... so I'm not sure what's the difference between painting and basecoating.

What basically happens is that when I paint on the black areas, I would sometimes hit an unintended area with the side of the brush so there would be a bit of black in an armor area so I'd have to go over it again with the basecoat red mix to "cover" it up.
 
H

HeavyBolter

New member
why don't you try and wash off the black that hits red paint? just load a brush with a little water and use the brush to rinse the black off the unintended area using the bristles? hit it while its still wet. I do that all the time. If the black is still wet, try a damp q-tip to just rub the black off while you can. it might leave the area alittle dark but it will be easier to touch up later.
 
I

-Ice

New member
Hehe... yes, I do the q-tip trick. I still don't have enough brushes to have a spare one just for "wiping" away colors.

Still, even with the q-tip, takes quite a bit to "erase" the error. I think I need to thin my black down more (currently use a 1:1 dilution) --- more coats may be necessary but at least errors won't be too troublesome.
 
M

Mourner

New member
-Ice said:
Hehe... yes, I do the q-tip trick. I still don't have enough brushes to have a spare one just for "wiping" away colors.
Click to expand...

If I make a mistake and need a clean (enough) brush to suck up the paint, I just suck on my brush to get most of the water and paint out...
Clean (enough) brush :D
A finger works as well... if you can reach the error...

To answer your next question, yes, I do lick my brush (as do a lot of people)
To make a point, to dilute my paints, but also to quickly clean my brush.


But you should note that I mostly use a 000 brush, so there's not that much paint to ingest to start with..
There have also been a number of discussions on wether paints are toxic or not, but I don't think anything definite ever came out of those...
 
I

-Ice

New member
Haha, yes I agree with you! Like I said in my other threads, I do need smaller brushes. I have tried picking up the fine detail GW brush but the tips are crap so...

And no, I don't lick brushes nor do I think I intend to. I dilute my stuff with distilled water, I measure paints out by the syringe (I use about 0.02ml of paint on a 1:1 dilution per space marine mini basecoat), and basically do most everything OCD. So no "unpredictable" saliva for me. I put my GW basecoat brush to a point by dragging it along some tissue while rotating it --- takes the overload of paint out and gives my brush a nice point.
 
M

Mourner

New member
-Ice said:
....So no "unpredictable" saliva for me.
Click to expand...

funny thing is, I've found that i have more control licking my brush then when adding more water to my paints...
especially on intricate stuff like a freehanded design or logo, i use paints straight out of the pot (I dilute the paint in the pot, but i'll get to that later) further diluted with saliva
somehow saliva makes the paint... well, i'd almost say "sticky" but that just sounds yuck...
somehow the paints sticks to the model better

another thing i just realised (it's even relevant to the original thread)
I dilute my paints in the pot.
I shake any pot before opening and if the lead weights don't sound right, I add a couple drops of water.
This means that all my paints are diluted to the consistency I need to do highlights.
Or the seams between SM armor ;)
 
H

hajmoid

New member
chaos black spray -> Mechrite red ->Devlan Mud -> 6MR/4Blood Red -> 8BR/2MR -> Blood Red -> 8BR/2Blazing Orange

Finito!!

The saliva thing is massively un-hygenic. Used to do it, don't any more. Esp if you don't change your water daily.
_
 
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