Advice for painting LARGE models/surfaces without an airbrush

wizardwolf

New member
Soon I will get to paint an Eldar Revenant Titan, and of course I want to do it nice. I'd like the main surfaces painted clean and smooth and then hand paint the detail work with perhaps more on top of the base color. I have no experience with glazes, but would it be possible to get a nice smooth covering this way? Could I dip the pieces and build many layers? Or it it best to paint them on?

Any suggestions are welcome - I'm up for creative possibilities.

Thanks
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
View attachment 12307
One of these?
OK Since I'm Still working on the Phantom Titan I'd seriously suggest using an airbrush.
However if you haven't got one of those tools I have to strongly recommend doing the thing in separate sections, and assembling as you work along.
If you have a colour scheme in mind then work up from the mid colour if possible by priming in that colour, Montana Gold Graphitti sprays have a huge colour range in which you should be able to find one to suite.
I'd also recommend buying the best Flat sable brush you can afford (or even can't afford) in order to get smooth painting over large areas.
 

Avelorn

Sven Jonsson
Why not use an airbrush? You could use something very simple akin to the GW spraygun for the first layers. I'd airbrush almost the whole thing. If you just get the main colours right you can use simple techniques as "dipping" as you propose, but I wouldn't use brown woodstain on eldar. I'd probably mix some large batch of something similar to GW washes.

Sure you can build up gradually with say wetblending which works well for large areas which would be my second option but it takes some practice to master. And yeah large areas = large brush as well.
 

wizardwolf

New member
Yep one of those! - Mine has Sonic Lances though.

I don't have an air brush, but might be able to get my hands on one. I do have it mostly in pieces and plan to paint before I do final assembly. My plans also include some sculpt work that I want to cover a great amount of the figure. I'm not sure how this will turn out but it may result in a good deal of detail and texture that will alter the surface areas - so I may not need the air brush when it's all said and done.

But this is all theory - I'm pretty fresh to the craft.

If I base coated with my mid tones what kind of paint do you recommend?- I am in the Western U.S. so I'm not sure about European brands. Do model paints work - like the spray on ones for model cars and such?


Yes Averelorn I wasn't planning on woodstain or anything - just really thin paint layered and layered. I have not tried it yet so I am curious how well it can stack up to the AB when done right. Could I do like an Easter egg thing with a dipping and drying, or is a brush on best? I use GW paints, and Liqutex Airbrush Medium when I pain minis - so I was thinking this mixed super thin might do the trick?

Wetblending is actually my method of choice to this point. I have plenty of practice wetblending from my art background, but doing it on 3D minis and models is a new challenge. I've only painted about 15 figures, but so far I am pleased with my early figures. However I have learned a bit more from these forms, and most importantly gotten myself some magnification, so I'm ready to go!

If wetblending can do the job then I think I may just give it a go. I'm guessing this would involve me wetblending many times with thin pants to get the best blend?

On a side not my painting technique on minis lately has been to mix all my half steps, and then dip my brush in the paint and the airbrush medium - using the medium to control the paint flow on a dip by dip basis. I'm not sure if this is too slow but it gives me a nice immediate control over the flow on my brush - and I like the feel of the medium better then water.

Sorry for all the questions - I know an AB is good but I want to know if it is worth the effort both time and results wise if I go another route. I'm sure trial and error will be in effect - and I'm not afraid to strip and restart (doing too much of that already) but your advice can help me cut down on some of this perhaps or help me find the right direction - and I appreciate the responses.
 

Tommie Soule

New member
For the sake of ease and cost the suggestion of the Gw airbrush is the best option, i did our local Gw stores titans and helms deep with one and as DR said a large flat sable brush is a great tool, tho watch out for bits in your paint.
 

wizardwolf

New member
So my options so far - primers of mid tones - a cheap GW option or an AB. I think I'm leaning toward the primers - reason being cost and that I want to hand pant/wetblend. The main surfaces I'm concerned with are the legs, big jet packs, and the back fin - want them to be a smooth pallet.

What about sanding the primed base to make it nice and smooth, then using nice and thin paints with a big high quality brush? And how important is brand?
 
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MAXXxxx

New member
I'd advise getting an airbrush. The best option being borrowing from a friend or someone in a club where you go.
If borrowing is not possible then a cheap double action (about 15 euros for the AB, basically any noname would do) is more than enought for the large surfaces (just look at buypainted's videos, the ones he uses there are not the expensive ones).
As for air... well I hate the air-cans, but if you don't want to have a full AB setup, they are a good option.

and that I want to hand pant/wetblend
your call, but if you want to go mad, I'd suggest doing it with a 000 or smaller brush ;).
Really, that 'mini' is simply too large to do a proper blending on it with a brush. Not impossible, but takes a LONG time and a LOT of patience. Ok I'm taking myself as an example, but I'd hate that model before I finish with the basecoat if done with a brush.
 

RuneBrush

New member
You could do it with spray cans, but as has been said on a model that size and cost, an airbrush really is the best way to achieve the large scale smooth blends and solid coverage you're looking for.
 

Dragonsreach

Super Moderator
If I base coated with my mid tones what kind of paint do you recommend?- I am in the Western U.S. so I'm not sure about European brands..
Just done a check Dick Blick stock Montana Gold (I thought it was an import into the UK and for once I was right). These are acrylic spray's used by Graffiti Artists and are smooth and flat. I've personally used a couple of colours for Buildings, (The Brick is a perfect match for.. well brick) They do take a little bit longer to dry than say GW primer, but care and wamer climate than the UK's Rain Central won't hurt.

As Tommie said be careful with the paint using a large flat brush as bits are easily found when you don't want them.
I'd suggest a fine filter to run the paints through, unwanted pany-hose is ideal (I'll leave it up to you how to get them though).
Tommie suggested the GW airbrush as a cheap option, but it isn't really that cheap anymore in comparison to the bottom level Badger Airbrushes.
 

wizardwolf

New member
Thanks for your tips everyone. I think I can borrow an AB if I go that route. If I buy one then I will have to wait on a compressor - are the air cans a major pain to work with?

Perhaps I won't ned an airbrush - last night I tried my first extensive sculpt onto a model as a test for what I will do on the Titan - and was really pleased. I'm not sure what the surfaces will be like when I'm done, but the Titan will look a deal different then it does now, and I'm not going for the total clean and smooth air brushed style seen on others.

I like the filter idea Dragonsearch - I've never heard of this. Is this good practice in general?
 

Einion

New member
wizardwolf said:
Thanks for your tips everyone. I think I can borrow an AB if I go that route. If I buy one then I will have to wait on a compressor - are the air cans a major pain to work with?
They are if you care about your wallet :struggle: Using canned air can get expensive, fast - to the point that within a very short time you'll have spent what you would on your own airbrush.

If you end up tackling the model by brush, then yes, it is highly advisable that you use larger brushes; few things make painting large areas more difficult than using a brush that's too small.

In terms of what type to get, you could go with natural hair (e.g. sable) and a number of synthetics, and there are lots of makers, so price will span a wide range - from a fiver to 50 quid or more. As a minimum, I would suggest one large filbert* and a small-to-medium round, or another filbert if you're already well supplied with rounds.

*Often works slightly better than a flat for painting 3D surfaces.

Einion
 

wizardwolf

New member
Thnaks Einion - I kind of think it might be a fun challenge to use the large brushes - perhaps base coat in the mid tones piece by piece, then shade with wetblending. For wet-blending would the suggestion of filtered paints be ideal? Any recommendations on paint thickness and number of wet-blended coats?

And when do we get to see a pic of that Phantom Dragonsrerach?
 

MrPickles

New member
you could do it somewhat easily with a brush but only if you have a large brush and use foundation paints. 2 layers and the foundation paints should cover smoothly. if you pick the wrong colours prepare for a nightmare - no yellow for example.
 

wizardwolf

New member
Haven't chosen my colors yet but no yellow is in my scheme - purple, green, brown, blue, black and white are all possible choices but I don't know which of them I will be doing. I may have it match my Gaurdians (the only squad I have finished) - mostly green with some purple and brown. But I also love the combination of blue and brown...

Really painting is the easy part (not that it's that easy, but it's largely mechanical) - deciding how to do it (and doing it) is the toughest part for me.
 

Einion

New member
wizardwolf said:
Thnaks Einion - I kind of think it might be a fun challenge to use the large brushes - perhaps base coat in the mid tones piece by piece, then shade with wetblending. For wet-blending would the suggestion of filtered paints be ideal?
I wouldn't even attempt to wet-blend on this kind of surface.

You shouldn't normally need to filter paints for brush application, that's just a safety measure to prevent blockages in airbrush nozzles.

wizardwolf said:
Any recommendations on paint thickness and number of wet-blended coats?
Very, very thin in multiple layers, allowing each to dry before the next is what I'd recommend. Use a hairdryer if necessary to speed drying, but if you paint one piece and then move on to the next you'll probably find the paint will dry fast enough on its own by the time you get back to the first part.

Einion
 

wizardwolf

New member
Thanks Einion - I'll go thin and see how it builds.

I'll post pic's here if anyone is interested - it might be a little while because I have other painting projects that have to happen first, and the sculpting part will take some time as well - but I can't wait to paint this baby!
 
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