acrylic flow release

Teflon Billy

New member
I\'ve been using acrylic flow as a additive to the water dropper I use to thin paints for a long time now. I\'ve only just begun to participate in the forums, but I have not yet seen mention of its use or products like it.

I\'ve found that it makes a very noticeable difference to how well the paint flows off my brush and also makes wet feathering-blending easier.

I\'ve just begun experimenting with it in an undiluted state. Instead of using my premix of 1:10 (with water) mixture, I\'ve put a pure drop on my pallet when thinning a small batch of paint. My first attempt seemed to making blending much easier and it worked well. My second attempt worked very poorly and the paints would not coat (very transparent).

Does anyone else use this product or one like it? What techniques, opinions, criticisms do you have?

http://www.goldenpaints.com/technicaldata/flreleas.php
 

Einion

New member
Hi Billy, welcome to the forums. Here are just a few of the prior threads that come up when you type in \"flow improver\":
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=20602
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=20487
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=19246
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=16499
http://www.coolminiornot.com/forums/viewthread.php?tid=17782

Originally posted by Teflon Billy
Does anyone else use this product or one like it? What techniques, opinions, criticisms do you have?
My main reservation would be just a caution to be careful not to add in too much - see Minimum Dilution on the link you provided - as this can prevent acrylic and vinyl paints from drying properly (or more accurately, from forming a cohesive film).

Instead of a commercial flow improver/flow release I use a few drops of dishwashing liquid in my water baths, just to cut the surface tension a little (helps brushes stay cleaner too BTW).

Of course if you\'re doing any wet blending (which I practically never do) a little more is certainly worth trying, ditto with blending mediums intended for acrylics, as well as W&N\'s Watercolour Blending Medium.

Einion
 

Baz

New member
I personally use AV drying retardant and a little dish washing liquid to get a really liquid coverage with a good working time. Golden\'s other gels and mediums are fantastic to work with. You can combine the heavy gels and the pumice powder for a really convincing seashore effect.
 

lizcam

New member
I live in an exceptionally dry region. I now thin all my paint using 1 part glazing medium to 3 parts paint and then thinning from there (I thin with magic wash). The glazing medium helps extend the drying time and hold the paint together on really thin glazes and the extra acrylic in the magic wash does the same. Works a treat here in the desert.
 

airhead

Coffin Dodger / Keymaster
Welcome to the forums. I\'ve promoted matt airbrush media as part of my magic wash mix for a long time. It is cheap compaired to lots of agents (a quart cost about the same as a few ounces of the other stuff.)
 

GOwenC

New member
I've never tried the dishwashing liquid trick so I'm going to give it a shot. I only work with artists acrylics and primary colors and I've had good luck with acrylic retarder (extends drying time) and airbrush medium. (reduces surface tension while mainaining good color coverage).
 

Jbickley00

New member
I use the golden flow release, and the key with it is diluting it with water. I don't add the flow relase directly to the paint, rather, you should mix it about 10:1 with water, and add that mix into the paint. Golden flow release is not meant to be added directly into the paint. If you are looking to thin your paints, then use golden fluid medium. If you want to do glazing (lots of thin, transparent layers) then I recommend Golden's glazing liquid: this will improve brushability and increase working time. A 5:1 mixture of paint to glazing liquid will improve the flow off the brush. If you add 1 part paint to ten parts Glazing liquid, you will get some very thin glazes. When you put glazes on a model, the paint does not at first seem to change color, successive layers of glaze will product a change in color.

Another product you can use is retarder: this is an additive that simply extends the working time of the paint (Golden Open Acrylics contain this already). I guess it depends on what you want...if you just want open time to do wet on wet, then use retarder. If you want cool glazes and better brushability then use glazing liquid, or flow release.
 

alan.adasilva

New member
Hi everybody.
I've been researching this subject as I have many questions.
Maybe you can give me a help.

Which product or trick can I use to create gradient shadows for objects and put glazes on them using layers? It feels like the new layers of paint just don't soak into the canvas after I put the first layer of paint.Do you know Michael Lang work? He creates nice shadows layer after layer and paint seems to soak into the canvas creating nice gradient. Mine just sits on the canvas very watery.

Even after I apply a layer with glazing on a gessoed canvas for the first time using flow release then the next glaze coats will soak into the canvas?


I'm afraid the next layers don't soak and there a resistance on the surface avoiding me to make a shadow or shade with some gradient effect.



The Flow release should be used on raw canvas only or could be as the first layer on gesso primed canvas?

I wanted to be able to put new layers on specific areas and wanted the paint soak in after rubbing the brush sometimes.
Currently when I do that the paint continues to go further and don't stop the point I want.
In resume I wanted to put as many layers as needed but just on some areas and have the layer (shadow or shade) go until the place I want I don't want the layer to cover the entire canvas. Wanted to put small amount of color layer by layer on specific areas on the objects on the canvas to build the shadows.

For example imagine a cube with darker areas at bottom.
When I paint the cube let it dry and put new layer at bottom to darken it the paint doesn't soak and continues go further creating drops and it's a mess.

Sorry long messages I just wanted to get a better idea on what products or tricks I could try to create this.

Thanks!
 
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